Hydraulic piping

I am wanting to mount a loader on my H. Currently it has aftermarket three point. I will be using a distributer mounted pump so I can be live. The loader has hydraulic bucket as well. External fluid tank mounts on loader. It has controls for loader but I will need hitch piped as well. How do I achieve my goal? I am not sure on how to go about this and what control to use. Hitch is set up as power up and weight takes it down. The cylinder does however have a second tap at the top side of it which is plugged. Is this for two way control?

(quoted from post at 09:17:33 01/05/13) I am wanting to mount a loader on my H. Currently it has aftermarket three point. I will be using a distributer mounted pump so I can be live. The loader has hydraulic bucket as well. External fluid tank mounts on loader. It has controls for loader but I will need hitch piped as well. How do I achieve my goal? I am not sure on how to go about this and what control to use. Hitch is set up as power up and weight takes it down. The cylinder does however have a second tap at the top side of it which is plugged. Is this for two way control?

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1. On an H, you must be using a separate valve for the 3 point if you have a distributor mounted pump, right? Not the valve for the belly pump?

2. You will need either a "pressure beyond valve" for the 3 point if you want it to operate with the loader and still be able to use the loader, OR, you will need a flow divider valve to split flow for the 3 point and loader, but if you do this, one or the other, or both will be very slow.

IMO, you really don't have enough pump capacity to operate a loader, let alone the 3 point AND loader. Why is it you are not using the belly pump for the 3 point?

The belly pump is no longer in this tractor...I bought it this way.
The Dist pump and loader I picked up from a farmer friend for
150.00...they came off a w-6 Farmall which he used for years
to lift and move round bails to his cattle. Everything is intact
and has been shredded. He is about one of the most honest
men I know so if he says it picked round bales then that is
what it did. That is what I will be doing as well. I just want the
option to use three point for my back blade occasionally to
maintain my road. It's an old tractor and I am in no hurry so
speed is not the goal.

You need a power beyond valve for the three point hitch. If you can find the literature for the valve that's on your tractor now you may already have power beyond capability. Either way, you have to run the plumbing correcly to use power beyond.

First you need to determine weather or not your tractor has the correct timing gears and drives to accomodate that pump.I am not sure weather or not an H and W6(M) use the same pump.You will need a 3spool valve.The 'mag' pump will be on the lower end of being adequate for your needs.You will also need an outside reservoir to have sufficent oil capacity.Imediatly/ASAP,remove the "plug" on the 3point cylinder.Replace it with a breather.On a plugged cylinder,you will have air lock,hydrolock,blown seals,other problems on a non vented cylinder.Oneway cylinders must be vented.

A simple 3 spool valve is the simplest way.Flow dividers,'power beyonds',etc get way to complicated for an H.

Hey Alderman,

If I read your post correctly, your PUMP and loader came off a W6, correct?. If so the pump WILL NOT fit the H. Don"t know about the loader.

When I was trying to put a live pump on the Super W6, fell over @ the price of $900 dollars. Found out M & W are different than the H. Cause we also have a H, engine is alot smaller. I mounted a pump to the front of the tractor, but farmall's dont have that hole in the front casting. H came with 152 cid or 164, M/W came with 248 cid or 264.

Same engine....pump is on the H already

Could be w4.... Either way....what it came off has the same engine as the H so that's why he sold it to me....

(quoted from post at 13:58:37 01/05/13) Same engine....pump is on the H already

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I had "assumed" if you had the 3 point, you already had that part worked out. Also I took it the loader had it's own integral valves and reservoir. Problem is, if the 3 point valve [u:66da751529]is not "pressure (or power) beyond"[/u:66da751529], you will need a new 3 point valve that [u:66da751529]is[/u:66da751529] PB before the loader valve will work. And, yes you should take the plug out of the top of the 3 point cylinder and put a breather in it. It is for pressure in the opposite (down) direction and if it's plugged, all you do is pressurize the air in the rod end of the cylinder or it might be leaking by the rod seal.
As I said, you could add a "priority flow divider valve" and split your flow, part going t the 3 point valve and part to th loade valve. problen is, you are already borderline on enough flow to operate the loader and robbing part of it to go to the 3 point and it will be extremely slow. that's what happened on my 240U and someone added a crankshaft dirven pump for the lloader. You can tell by the plumbing that it had been using the tractor pump before PS was added and whoever had it before had added the second pump. On mine, the "priority" side takes away enough flow that the 3 point will not work when the engine is idled down. Your situation would be even worse than mine because you would need to split the flow about 50/50 for both to operate and losing 1/2 your flow to either and that doesn't leave much.
With a pressure beyond valve, you will have full flow avaiable to both the 3 point and loader, unles you try to operate both at the exact same time.

you wouldnt need a 3 spool valve you just need 3 spools. It could be a 2 spool and a single spool hooked in series will work. by this i mean pressure line from pump to valve #1 then out of that valve to the next valve and then return to tank form the last valve. this allows you to mount a single spool valve for your 3 point hitch in a different location and maybe a more accessable location for when you are looking back towards the 3 point rather than in the spot convient for looking at the loader bucket like the loader controls are probably located.
then if you have a double acting single valve you could have down pressure on your 3 point by hooking to the other end of that cylinder which may or may not be diserable depending on the use of the 3 point. If you need to purchase the valve for the 3 point yet you may also consider one with a float position to give you a free float option.

(quoted from post at 18:53:06 01/05/13) you wouldnt need a 3 spool valve you just need 3 spools. It could be a 2 spool and a single spool hooked in series will work. by this i mean pressure line from pump to valve #1 then out of that valve to the next valve and then return to tank form the last valve. this allows you to mount a single spool valve for your 3 point hitch in a different location and maybe a more accessable location for when you are looking back towards the 3 point rather than in the spot convient for looking at the loader bucket like the loader controls are probably located.
then if you have a double acting single valve you could have down pressure on your 3 point by hooking to the other end of that cylinder which may or may not be diserable depending on the use of the 3 point. If you need to purchase the valve for the 3 point yet you may also consider one with a float position to give you a free float option.

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This only works IF the first valve in line is specifically made for "pressure beyond" (some call it power beyond). You can not hook the return port of the first valve to the second valve. On a "pressure beyond, that port is specific for a second valve "down streeam" of the first.