Stuck Farmall F30

I recently purchased a Farmall F30. Upon receipt of the tractor I noticed that it was stuck. Everything else looks fine. I was wondering on methods to get it unstuck. The enigne will be coming apart. Please don't suggest buring the cylinders, as I live in the cities and some of my neighbors are cops (ie chemical burning is illegal in metro limits). I would like to have running by May.

Thanks

If you are taking it apart anyway then I would just pull the head and the oil pan and then you can see what you are dealing with. If it is bad you can take the rod caps off and drive the pistons and rods out with an oak block and a big hammer.
Zach

Well if you plan to rebuild it take it apart as in split the tractor pull the head and crank and then take the block to the machine shop and have new sleeves and pistons etc done no problems with it being stuck since parts that are stuck would be replace it your rebuilding it any how

Time is on your side for freeing up stuck engines. The first thing to do is remove all of the spark plugs and fill each cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil, ( everyone has a favorite chemical combination on YT ). Next drain the oil and water out of the engine and fill the crankcase with Marvel Mystery Oil. Let the Oil sit in the engine for as long as you can stand it, the longer the better. ( Brake Fluid is also very good for the cylinders and some guys have used Coke )

Once you have let it set, jack up one rear wheel, put it in gear and try to rock the tire back and forth by hand. If it moves a little add a little more oil and wait. One problem with trying to free an engine this way is that you can bend push rods. Same method applies if you take off the cylinder head. Rod bearings could be seized as well so take your time, it's on your side.

Do not try to pull start the stuck motor because you could break all kind of stuff.

Remove the plugs and use a lite to see the walls and if they are rusty aint any snake oil going to free it up. When you remove the plugs look at their condition if they are rusty also that probably means trouble also. You will be better off in the long run by removing the head that way you can inspect the valves also. Headgaskets arent that expensive.

just hope it is not stuck with the pistons at top and bottom if it is really rusty inside because that makes it more of a pain. If it is somewhere in between take the rod caps off and turn the crank so the journals are off to the sides and after soaking it a week or so drive them out the bottom.The rod caps are bigger than the bore on F-series so they go out the bottom.

(quoted from post at 14:12:33 01/16/13) I recently purchased a Farmall F30. Upon receipt of the tractor I noticed that it was stuck. Everything else looks fine. I was wondering on methods to get it unstuck. The enigne will be coming apart. Please don't suggest buring the cylinders, as I live in the cities and some of my neighbors are cops (ie chemical burning is illegal in metro limits). I would like to have running by May.

Thanks

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50/50 acetone and ATF works but it takes time. If your gonna fill the crankcase with Marvel mystery Oil you will need a barrel of it. Never heard of splitting an F30. You can't remove the crank because it comes out the end of the block and has to be rotated to get the pistons out the bottom, so unless you cut the rods(and I have) it won't come out unless the pistons and rods are out of the way.
The best way to proceed is to remove the engine and take the pan, oil pump, and head off.
Usually not all the pistons are stuck so take the rod caps off (Count and save the shims) and find the culprit. Best way I've seen to remove the stuck one(s) is to turn the block upside down in a hydraulic press. ( Nebraska Kirk has Pictures doing this) Push out the sleeve and piston together, its only got to move a couple inches to be free. Later you can push the piston out to reuse it ( No new ones available) or get a used one. New sleeves can be purchased from Aldersons tractor parts. If the ball bearings are tight and quiet you can leave the crank in the block. Even if the crank looks bad they usually clean up well as the are very resilient.
That should get you started, never know what you'll find but you can save em even when they look like this

(quoted from post at 14:12:33 01/16/13) I recently purchased a Farmall F30. Upon receipt of the tractor I noticed that it was stuck. Everything else looks fine. I was wondering on methods to get it unstuck. The enigne will be coming apart. Please don't suggest buring the cylinders, as I live in the cities and some of my neighbors are cops (ie chemical burning is illegal in metro limits). I would like to have running by May.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Drain some oil out of the crankcase and let it settle in a glass jar. After it warms observe it to see if any water has settled to the bottom. If you see green then it is radiator water, but if it is clear it is rain /condensation water. If you have no water then you should be able to free it easily. Green water usually means a cracked block/sleeve, while clear water usually means rain water from an uncovered exhaust. When I get clear water I usually pour a lite oil down the exhaust manifold and let it set a while. One time in a 1000 the oil may free it, but probably not. Good luck.

If there's water in one or more of the cylinders, no concoction is going to work. It will just float on top of the water and not get where it needs to go.

The quickest and most effective way to get an engine unstuck is to take it apart.

Its been mentioned but....If there is any visible rust in the cylinders through the spark plug hole your wasting your time. My 140 looked promising but upon removal of the head....yea well you be the judge.

Do as Zach suggested and drive out the pistons. The sleeves may come out with the pistons you can use an acetylene torch to heat the sleeves to free the pistons. Hal

Thank you all for your suggestions and advice. I have come to the conclusion that at least one cylinder will need to be replaced and was wondering if the McCormoick Deering 1020 and W30 have the same size sleeve and piston (possibly even rod) or if there is something else with the 4.25 bore that can be used.