question for Bob M and others

I tried your experiment with the magnet. I can make the amp gauge do anything I want it to. It stays in whatever position I leave it when the tractor is not running. When the tractor is running it stays wherever I put it when the tractor was off. The lights don't make it move when running. When off the lights will move the gauge, but it won't move back. I hope all this gibberish makes sense to you. Now, the tractor always starts well, so I think that John T. might be correct in thinking the tractor is charging, even though the gauge doesn't show it. What do you think? Thanks, Ellis
 
Hey Ellis - I agree with John T. It sounds like your tractor is charging fine but the ammeter is most DEFINITELY DOA. It's time for a new one(!).

A quick, crude test to verify generator is charging: Start the engine and turn on the lights. Observe the lights' brightness at slow idle. Now quickly open the governor to maximum RPM. If the lights get brighter at full RPM, the system is charging fine.

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Incidentally the ammeter behavior you describe (a moving but "dead" needle) can be the result by brief a high flowing current near the ammeter. Usual cause is arc welding on the tractor. But a nearby lighting strike can do it too.
 
I agree the Meter is toast. The stays where set issue is often bad bearings and dirt that prevents the needle form moving when the tiny magnetic forces (internal to the needle movement) are aplied. Tapping on th emeter when charging may allow it to move. Jim
 
With respect to your question of "what do you think", I reckon it remains the same as what I posted below i.e.


"Put a voltmeter on the battery and when the tractors sittin there not running the voltage should be around 6.3/12.6 volts but when running at fast RPM IFFFFFFFF the charging system works voltage should rise to 6.5 to 7 on a 6 volt or 13 to 14 on a 12 volt. Additionally when you change from slow idle to fast RPM the lights should get noticeably brighter if shes charging"

Many old tractors I bought at auctions came complete with mechanically stuck/corroded/rusted ammeters BUT THEY COULD STILL BE CHARGING JUST FINE and how could I tell hmmmmm just try the above

Let us know

John T
 

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