what rear end will fit?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
i have a 46 H and would like to give it ipto/live pto. what rear would it bolt to? i know 300/350, but would a 460 work? would any of the utilites? how bout 504?
 
I agree, go get another tractor. It would be cheaper even if you were able to pull it off. No the 460 and 504 frame was based on the SMTA up through the 666 with major changes with the model change. Moving to live PTO and internal rear hydraulics was a major change and is not necessarily backward compatible.
 
460 was 350 derived small frame. (I think the 504 was also) do they fit Money talks, but a better tractor can be found to use along with the stock H for less. Jim
 
You not only need the rear frame but also the center section. No matter what tractor you used about all you would be doing is replacing the engine with the one from the H and hanging the H sheet metal on it.
 
money's tight can't just buy another one a little at a time doesn't hurt so much. And can't get close to what i have i have in this one, dad bought the H w/live hyd fer $800, another 800 for the 3 point with twin cylinders(new), rear tires 1400, full fulid, $200 for the 12volt conversion. who'll pay 3200 for a dirty old H? was asking incase i run across something, winter project. besides i love the way you sit "above" and the looks of a H/M farmall.
 
Who said you had to sell the H?You can have two tractors.....As was said,you could probably buy a complete running 300/350/400 for less than the individual parts....then you would have all the labor
 
If you decide to do it. Research gear ratios. 300, 350 and 460 would get you the closest for a H engine. 504 would slow you way down and the pto drive gears would give to low a RPM for the PTO. 504 axle housings are wider and axles a bigger size. 340 farmall would give a little slower tractor speed compared to a 300. Some of the tractors could have a clutch type or planetary type PTO. Sometimes the pto drive gears and pto type could be juggled to get near the desired pto RPM with engine rpm used.
Tractors with internal hydraulics would need external valving installed with pressure and return lines to the existing openings. Also need the internal pump turning at near the intended rpm.
You would need another starter, flywheel and clutch. With a 300 to 460 transmission top cover, fabricating steering post and rear fuel tank support mounting will be needed. Battery mounting also. If a 300 like rear is used a hydraulic reservoir will be needed since you already have a engine pump Other top covers more. Some of the tractors have 2 axle sizes so the cast wheels will need to match.
Always thought a clean looking H, SH tractor could be made with like a 460 rear with big axles and a 300 or 350 engine. Internal hydraulic pump with some modern valving added.
 
LMack, the 460 and 504 have the same bell housing size and bolt pattern as the H. So do the 340, 544, 656, 666, and 686.

An H front will bolt right up. In fact, all you need is a pressure plate with the IPTO drive socket and everything in the rear end will work.

You will end up with an ugly, cobbled-up Frankentractor with ZERO resale value unless you spend a LOT of time fabricating and making everything look nice.

The easiest to marry and make look good is an H front with a 300 or 350 rear.
 
If u want live pto for your H just add a M&W clutch on it. Not a cheap part but well worth the money and time after installed. Did it to one of my H's a few winters ago to use with a IH 46 square baler, best thing I've added to the tractor!
 
I'm betting you can find a 300 or 350 for what it will cost in parts to change one over, unless you can find one of the M&W clutches. That is if you do it right and fix all the things you should while you have the tractor(s) split. Plus with most 300/350s you will gain TA, PS and a few added HP. No, you can't sell the H for what you have in it now, but you could swap those $1400 tires over to a 300/350 if you needed to, and if the newer tractor did not have Fast Hitch, you could move the 3 point over too.
 

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