Fast Hitch Setup for Plowing

Don Hopf

Member
I posted before about breaking off a FH prong. The plow FH part is at the welding shop for the prong reattachment and correcting the hieght of the prongs as somebody ground them down to 2 1/2 inches for using on SC or 200.

What else has to be done to the FH setup for plowing?

Thanks

Don
 
(quoted from post at 10:13:43 10/25/13) I posted before about breaking off a FH prong. The plow FH part is at the welding shop for the prong reattachment and correcting the hieght of the prongs as somebody ground them down to 2 1/2 inches for using on SC or 200.

What else has to be done to the FH setup for plowing?

Thanks

Don
I don't recall where the pins are located to allow the F-H to float up, but they are there somewhere... need to take them out or re-locate them. Been since '64 that I ran a 450 with a 3x16" Fast Hitch plow, and I can't remember what I had for breakfast... oh yeah, biscuits and gravy!
 
A 400 has either a front implement pitch control cylinder on the Fast Hitch front connection point (under the middle of the tractor), or it has a rude ementry Draft control system with a "D" handle on the left side of the platform that has notches in it to adjust draft pressure. The Draft control system is pretty much bogus. (Ours was always in the highest notch handle up) The pitch control was best as it allowed the Fast hitch to be adjusted for the angle of attack of the plow. Lowering the front of the hitch made the plow suck into the ground easier, raising it made it dig in less. The plow may be small for a 400 as it is a 3-16 in clay or 3-18 in loam. The adjustment of the wheel position should be so the first moldboard is its width away from the furrow. Jim
 
As IH fan says, you must remove pin(s) so the hitch
floats or you will break something. With pins in,
you can lift the tractor off the ground with all
its weight on the plow. If new style FH, the pins
are on each of the draft links. Old style FH, it is
one pin on the vertical lift arm.
 
If you have the hitch using a lift arm pivot bolted to the transmission top cover and a front hydraulic cylinder and a rear one. You need a working front cylinder and the following pins removed. Front rockshaft hole so front of hitch will go up and down when operating the front cylinder, pin at top of the lift rod, 2 pins below the lift balls near the prong sockets. From the center of the pto shaft to the inside of the right rear tire set distance at. 14 inch plow 26.5 inches, 16 inch plow 28.5.
For the hitch with handle on the left side. Remove pins from the 2 sockets so they can turn up. Pin near the lower end of the hydraulic cylinder that keeps the lift arms from floating up. Move pin in the swing limiter so hitch will swing. Adjust handle to notches as needed when you start plowing. Keep pin in the left lift link and the collar on the leveling crank in the top position.
If I remember correct the big prongs are 1/4 inch taller than the small ones. Can measure tomorrow to double check if needed.
 

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