Cracked block repair

Hi again, Folks!
While I was removing the crank pulley and sleeves yesterday, I checked the block over for cracks and sure enough, its cracked right behind the carbeurator. it almost two inches long. I"m going to attempt to repair it from the inside with the Devcon while I have the sleeves out so it wont be noticeable. If any one has any further suggestions, please chime in...
Oh, its a 58" 240 Utility with a C-123
Thanks in advance!
David
 
I would grind it clean then get some rubbercement used to install windshields has worked for me you can rough it up and is hard to see
 
If it were me, I'd go to a salvage yard and find another one. That's what I did. In my travels I have found a ton of of c123 blocks. I bet if you scope out the IHC collectors club near you they will have a go-to guy that has or knows where one is. There's like 40 chapters of IHC collectors clubs. My advice is if you're going to do it, do it right. Maybe get with a machine shop and borrow their powder magnaflx and take the magnet with you. You can dig up an old block out the woods and check it right there.
 
I have a 240 utility that the block appears to be good in if you are interested call me at (785)966-2739 days or (785)966-0038 eves
 
I've used other fillers to no avail. JB is my filler of choice for this kind of thing.

Clean surface is required for any patch material to be successful. V-it out some. Fill it. Allow to cure. Sand & roughen a bit, then paint it over & forget about it.
 
I repaired a SH that was cracked in #2 Cylinder wall 6" long. V'ed it out with a dremel tool. Then drilled 1/8"hole every 1/2" thru the crack to create a stiching to hold the JB weld. Dressed it up and installed new sleeves and in the second year of Service.Never seen any water when changing oil and don't have to add to Radiator.
 
My super A was cracked in exactly the same place. I tried JB weld with no luck. I Ved the crack and let it set for 3 days. About 5 hours of off and on running and the crack came back right in the middle of the JB weld. I thought, well maybe I didn't use enough JB weld so I ground out the JB weld and started again. Same result. I think the differences in the expansion and contraction rates between the JB weld and the cast iron was different enough to cause the crack to form again. I ended up replacing the block. To me, that is the only real fix.
 
Thanks for the advice fellas...
I cleaned up the block a little with a die grinder on the inside. Im not totally convinced its cracked. After further inspection, It looks more like a casting flaw. I"m going to have it magnafluxed to be sure.
There are two areas that are in question: They are a half-inch apart and separated by a reinforcement "rib" on the inside of the block. The smaller of the two looks like the metal was smudged when the block was cast in the die. The other looks similar but more pronounced like a crack or a seam. If you look on the inside in the water jacket area, there are similar marks....not as long and offset as if it cracked (if its a crack) at an odd angle thru the metal.
I think this is a bad cast. I have some experience with aluminum die casting engine blocks and if memory serves this happens when the metal isn"t hot enough resulting in a "cold cast".
I"ll let y"all know what I find...
David
 
That's great news.

My original block



2nd block after magnaflux, found a crack.



My third block:



I had to have the top of the block milled.


Finished product.

 

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