Just PU a TD 340 Dozer new to posts

Hi guys I just acquired a 1960's i understand is a IH TD 340 Dozer. Neighbor passed away couple of years ago and a scrapper cleared out his yard of everything, dozers, screaners, tractors, cranes etc. I heard conversation last weekend about a dozer up in the hills (they didnt know how to move it but it would start)that the guys believed was his and they were wanting to get it and scrap it..Well i got ahold of the widow lady and asked her (she is in a nursing home now)if she wanted to get rid of it and she told me to just take it. I felt bad and gave her 500 for it, (probably too much, people have not paid her for a backhoe and a tractor she sold em)
ANYWAY!!!!
It starts but does not move those guys didnt know why or how too move other than the gearshifter? Read on some comments it could be the clutch, planetary clutches, brakes engaged, Bad reverser or TA (dont know what it has) stuck gears or what? Tomorrow my brother and I are going up there and try to start it and take it home. How much does this thing weight so I can borrow a large enough tractor etc to move it. hopefully we can have it move on its own to load it. Well I appreciate all comments and help. Merry Christmas BTW im in NM.
PS. one gentleman said it was a piece of scrap and to not bother fixing up. I just want to use it around to clear some small junipers/pinon trees and level the area. Thanks again

Sounds like the guy thinks any old machine is scrap. Ya that could well be an easy fix, ya right dozier are always hard to work on but it could well be fix that would cost you less then a grand and have a good little machine

Be carefull when around these things, they are very heavy and will slide sideways especially while loading / unloading. I'd guesstamate to weight to be just shy of 5 ton. If the hydralics work and the blade can be raised you should be able to load it. Use plenty of heavy log chains to tie it down.

If its close to your house and will turn just tow it home. As long as you are not in mud they roll pretty good.

I owned one of these but only kept it a few months. Not easy to work on. Weighs about 6000 lbs. blade probably another 1500 lbs. Total less than 8000 lbs. Easy to drive if clutches and brakes are all working. If it won't move, brakes may be stuck. This thing shares many parts with the 340 wheel tractor. Same engine, gears and so on. If it rolls when tranny in neutral you should be able to tow it easily. Has 5 speed transmission and steers with the hand levers. Pull lever back and clutch on that side releases. Pull harder and brake is applied. Mine had leaky pinion seals that allowed oil to leak onto the dry disk brakes that are located between the transmission and the final drives. One side brake wood not hold so you could only turn to the right. Brake repair requires removing the track and the final drive. A heavy job. Good little machine if you can get it going. It's encouraging that it runs. Good luck!!

You did pretty good for 500. It'd scrap higher than that around here. People with plenty of money might call it scrap worthy, because to them they'd just buy a new one. Though, if those same people owned this "piece of scrap" don't think for an instant they'd sell it to you for 500. In reality though, what else will 500 buy you? Say you have to put 2000 in it, what are you going to buy for 2500? Chances are you won't have to put that much in it (assuming you do the work yourself). You did alright by my book.

Did they make a cage for these? If you're going to use it to push over trees, I highly recommend a cage of some fashion (something that covers your head). One saved me a few years ago pulling a log that up ended (wasn't using a skid) and came down on top of the tractor.

I like it! If it is and has been below freezing, it might have ice in the trans, and finals.. If so it will not move (nor should it be moved) until unfrozen. Clutches can and do sieze, and so do brakes. If the brakes are frozen, they will need to be unstuck before moving it. (or removed) Jim

Looks like a fun project. I have been thinking for a while that I would like to find a small crawler to use in the woods but I don't know if it would really make sense for me or not. I'll be interested to see what you have to do to get that one moving.
Zach

The crawler has a main clutch operated by a foot pedal used to change gears or when you reverse or just want to stop. Second set of steering clutches are inside the tranny. If you can start the engine, then clutch must work, or you have tranny in neutral. If you engage clutch and it does not kill engine then tranny in neutral or something not connected. If engine dies when clutch engaged, then brakes stuck or tranny stuck in two gears or ice in tranny or final drives or steering clutches stuck. Keep us informed on this. I'm curious! Also tracks or idlers on tracks could be stuck.

UPDATE: Well guys did not have much time yesterday to work on the dozer had to go, give a man a quote on fixing his road and to my #5 grandaughters #4 BD in pm. BUT I went up there to check it out a bit closer than the photos. I didnt try start it, it is a 4cyl diesel and the wires to the glow plugs are munched and not connected (why two wires to the plugs? they are not even connected to anything). The handle on the left (I guess is a Hi N Low???? goes all way to front dash)was in the middle N? and the tranny in Neutral. Then I pushed the clutch seemed ok, Sat on the seat and pulled the steering leavers and yahoooo do they really go back towards the seat, they did seem to have like two different positions (clutch disengage and brake engage)the foot brake was down and stayed down looked like the brake lock was left on so it might of cause the pads to stick to the drum. I pulled it up with alot of effort and it stayed up. Once I pushed it down as far as it was before it would not come up without me really pulling on it again. I am hoping that it may be the brake issue and I can start it tomorrow and get it on a trailer, it is 3 miles to my house, down a rocky road, half mile of pavement then a mile dirt road. The rollers and the front idler bushings seem shot so I dont want to road it to the house. Parts Parts Parts and lots of TLC. Read of someone on some post that put on CASE rollers that fit, anyone know about that? Bad news though It"s really starting to snow so tomorrow might be out. Thats NEW MEXICO for you.

Lever on left is lever for forward and reverse with netrural in middle
I believe there should be only one wire running to the glow plugs one wire that branches out to all four good luck keep us posted.
Oh and try to get glow plugs to work don't use starting fluid

Thanks, Today Mon, I went put in about 2 gallons of fuel opened the valve up on top of the filter till fuel came out of it and open the bottom till fuel came out of it too, ck oil and coolant. No work the starter solinoid rusted to coil cleaned it up now works it turns over the engine but no fire. I never work a diesel so do I need to bleed all of the injector lines till they too run with fuel? Should I manually fill the lines with fuel? Or put some in the cylinders? Oil PSI goes to 40. The glow plug wire had another wire soldered on top of the old one that is why I thought there were two. I made a new temp one and connected a battery jump starter to it directly for couple minute then longer later I didnt want to use starting fluid like was said. The injector pump was a bit loose/rocking when i cranked the engine, I tightened both bolts down but how tight or should it stay a little loose? Towards the end black smoke would come up the exhaust but no change in RPM or firing. Is there a kill switch that I am missing like a magnieto? I wonder possibly dirty fuel filter? or loose fuel lines there were no visable fuel leaks? BTW the plate ID is a TD-340A, TD-9086 so it makes it a 1965. Thankfully waiting your suggestions. Was sunny and muddy in NM today.

Ok you will need to open vents on your fuel filters in opposite order bottom are drains top are vents open bottom first to make sure you have flow and it will also drain any water being water will settle to the bottom once it looks like clen fuel close them then open top vents to bleed off any air there is a spot on pump to bleed but I don't remember where so you can bleed at the injectors big nut on line where it goes into the head try to loosen carefully if they are stuck you can break then your outta business but if they loosen just back out a turn or so tap line to free from injector do all 4 if possible
Also check your oil cup on air clean ahead of time to make sure not over full with water and froze
Kill should be knob on dash with cable that goes to the pump on opposite side of the throttle pull towards back to kill forward to run Make sure you can move it freely just in case
When oil bath cheched and filters bled lines loosened set throttle all the way back to full and crank engine if you get spray from injectors your in good shape
Oil pressure and black smoke when cranking is a good sign injector pump being loose is not hopefully you will luck out and timing is still good guess try to look at where bolts tighten against pump and see if there is marks as to where it was try to line them up before you tighten it will not take much being off not to run
But check it all out if you think your in good shape and you have fuel at injector hook up your glow plug wire give it a minuet the try cranking with throttle about a third way back
I had a td 340a years ago with drott 4n1 bucket and I sold it what the hell was I thinking but mine started really good
Good luck keep us posted
Oh and if you get it to start let it run a bit before you try to move it. I remember these had a problem on the reverser lever I had to leave reverser lever in gear foward or reverse and take gear shifter outta gear when you wanted to stop being when you pushed the clutch in it would just grind when you tried to put into forward or reverse from neutral but if you do neutral on reg gear shift it will go right in
Dan

UPDATE: Today sun went back up to the dozer. batteries charged fully wrenches in hand and alot of hope. Loosen the hose from the filter, fuel comming out good, loosen all the injectors at the nut, cranked over till diesel was comming out at them, tighten them back up, put my glow plug wires on, let sit for acouple o minutes, then cranked, cranked, and cranked and phooey zip no fired up. I took out the glow plugs and cranked again, fuel did come out of the holes so I know it is getting fuel..However. I cannot find any kind of knob w cable as a kill switch so Im thinking that maybe the kill switch is on and that is why no firing? I du no Im not a diesel man so this all new to me. Maybe someone has a page of the operators manual that says how to start it and what the dash looks like and what things are (it has two push buttons and a big knob maybe light switch?) Any way me and the dog came home with two low batteries and no td340. How do you check the glow plugs if good? Thanks for any help !!

UPDATE: Today sun went back up to the dozer. batteries charged fully wrenches in hand and alot of hope. Loosen the hose from the filter, fuel comming out good, loosen all the injectors at the nut, cranked over till diesel was comming out at them, tighten them back up, put my glow plug wires on, let sit for acouple o minutes, then cranked, cranked, and cranked and phooey zip no fired up. I took out the glow plugs and cranked again, fuel did come out of the holes so I know it is getting fuel..However. I cannot find any kind of knob w cable as a kill switch so Im thinking that maybe the kill switch is on and that is why no firing? I du no Im not a diesel man so this all new to me. Maybe someone has a page of the operators manual that says how to start it and what the dash looks like and what things are (it has two push buttons and a big knob maybe light switch?) Any way me and the dog came home with two low batteries and no td340. How do you check the glow plugs if good? Thanks for any help !!Phone call works good too 505-470-4638

(quoted from post at 17:53:52 12/29/13) UPDATE: Today sun went back up to the dozer. batteries charged fully wrenches in hand and alot of hope. Loosen the hose from the filter, fuel comming out good, loosen all the injectors at the nut, cranked over till diesel was comming out at them, tighten them back up, put my glow plug wires on, let sit for acouple o minutes, then cranked, cranked, and cranked and phooey zip no fired up. I took out the glow plugs and cranked again, fuel did come out of the holes so I know it is getting fuel..However. I cannot find any kind of knob w cable as a kill switch so Im thinking that maybe the kill switch is on and that is why no firing? I du no Im not a diesel man so this all new to me. Maybe someone has a page of the operators manual that says how to start it and what the dash looks like and what things are (it has two push buttons and a big knob maybe light switch?) Any way me and the dog came home with two low batteries and no td340. How do you check the glow plugs if good? Thanks for any help !!Phone call works good too 505-470-4638

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What is the temperature outside?? Any black smoke???

I know very little about diesels, but here is my take. Any others correct me if I am wrong. Glow plugs are just for cold starting so even if they do not work it could start (or try to). The ignition of the fuel is by the heat of the compression stroke. If you have fuel coming out of the injectors and glow plug holes the pump is at least pumping (here is something I am not sure about just guessing) , but may not be in time due to it being loose. The fuel needs to injected at the right moment to ignite, if the timing of the pump is off it will not start. There should be some sort of switch to heat the glow plugs and it is only used on the start up. Most diesels kill the engine by stopping the fuel to the injectors, hence the pull knob mentioned above.

My guess and it is a very ill informed one at that is that the pump is out of time or you lack the compression to ignite the fuel. Again I know just enough to get myself in trouble so others mat chime in to correct me and hopefully add.

UPDATE:!! HAPPY NEW YEAR! Went up to the mtn to try to get this dozer started. Thanks to some info from Pork (here on the crawler section) I checked the timing on the injector pump bled fuel lines again and Kept trying and woopie it started by golly. Let it run for about 10 minutes or so, It was really smokey for a while but quit and clear exhaust. Throttle gets stuck at midpoint and wants to just quit so got to be quick at adjusting the throttle. Well I put it in Fwd and 1st and it moved, Rev and Yes, Yes it is moving you guys. The Reverser works, the tranny seems to work, The Hyd have fluid level but they move slowly and sounds like it is low on Hyd so maybe it is a filter, it rolls but the right side seems slower than the left side so it tends to drift to the right on its own, the brakes work good and that is the reason that it wouldnt move before Revsr in Neutral, and brakes applied with lock on. Boy was I happy. Shut it off and then restarted right up. Didnt want to leave it running with no one there someone could of got hurt so I shut it off and Ran home and got the trailer to take it home. Got back and the darn thing would not start again. Finally it did but Boy did we have a heck of a time getting it up on the trailer. But yes it is home and I can work on it at my pace. I know I will have many more question to ask so you will be hearing from me. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!

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Looking at those wood blocks under the tracks it looks to me like the tracks turned when they parked it there. Or they lifted it and put the blocks under it so it wouldn't freeze down. Jim