Choke cables

Buddy, I just restored a Farmall 240 and some pictures are about five threads below this one where the cable will be visible in one of the photos. I obtained a Restoration Quality metal sheathed choke cable which was longer then I needed on my 240. It seems to work very nice even after altering it to the length I needed. I was able to remove the entire solid wire cable from the sheath which I reduced the length of with a hi-speed cut-off saw and then inserted the solid wire back into the sheath. It seems to be working very well and I'm sure it could be lubricated with some heavy grease for even better functionality if desired. I see the same supplier has them for the 400 and 450 tractors you make reference too. If you want more information my email is open and I have no connection to the firm I purchased my choke cable from, Hal.
 
This is going to sound rely goofy, but.... never stopped me before. There used to be a bicycle cable lubricator a person could buy, that clamped around the end of the spiral end, where the steel straight rod came out. It clamped on, and had a small hole in the side where you could stick a Lubricator gun end into, and squirt some grease in. Grease couldn't escape, but went up inside the spiral tube, worked pretty good. If you have an old bicycle shop, you might check. Used to be a place called Third Hand / Loose Screws Bicycles, on line, that had them.
 

A little WD-40 will go a long way to make those cables work smoothly. Just spray it on the sheathing. It will penetrate.
 
NO no no...... You want a cable that will slide nice and free year round??? IF you buy a new cable pull the cable wire all of the way out. Next run the cable wire through your fingers gently till you get the curves and any kinks out. Stick it back in and see if it slides now without any binds. Last stop; pull the cable back out. You will need to shop around at a couple of hardware or auto supply stores to find a plastic squeeze bottle of powder grafphite. Squirt some in the top of the cable and then take your air gun and PUFF it a little into the top. This blows it through out the sheath. Refill and blow it a couple of times till you see it blowing out of the end of the cable. I did it a couple of times like this on my garden tractors till the cables were very nicely coated inside. SUPER slick and NOT any temperature troubles. Even below Zero they slide freely. IF it is exposed to water then use chain and cable lube for motorcycles. Most of these cable are under a hood or such and the graphite works awsome!
 
(quoted from post at 09:37:28 05/09/14) NO no no...... You want a cable that will slide nice and free year round??? IF you buy a new cable pull the cable wire all of the way out. Next run the cable wire through your fingers gently till you get the curves and any kinks out. Stick it back in and see if it slides now without any binds. Last stop; pull the cable back out. You will need to shop around at a couple of hardware or auto supply stores to find a plastic squeeze bottle of powder grafphite. Squirt some in the top of the cable and then take your air gun and PUFF it a little into the top. This blows it through out the sheath. Refill and blow it a couple of times till you see it blowing out of the end of the cable. I did it a couple of times like this on my garden tractors till the cables were very nicely coated inside. SUPER slick and NOT any temperature troubles. Even below Zero they slide freely. IF it is exposed to water then use chain and cable lube for motorcycles. Most of these cable are under a hood or such and the graphite works awsome!

I've cured many parking brake/emergency brake cables with WD-40. These are the cables that live underneath a car or truck. How much more year-round do you want?
 

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