TO-35 Diesel Fuel tank leaking

DrLoch

Member
I noticed yesterday that the fuel tank on my TO35 looks to be leaking in the area where the forward mounting bolts are. Has anyone else experienced this and what is the best process of repairing this?
 
Do not use a naked flame to braze or solder if you can do
without....It can be very dangerous. There is a procedure, but still
beware! I would be inclined to clean the area well, back to bare
metal, and paint it with glass fibre resin. Most of the tank repair
kits use a similar substance. I repaired my petrol tank in 1985 and
it is still good.....Sam
 
I used gas tank seal both inside and outside, think the anti-sloush panel inside prevents the sealant from reaching where the tank mounts.
 
If there are any old school radiator shops left in your town, they used to vat out the fuel residue and braze them.

Not sure on the diesels, but the gas models used springs under the bolts that kept the stress off the tank there. If yours doesn't have the springs, that may be why it's leaking.
 
MF dealer I worked for years ago used a torch all the time to braze or solder both gas and diesel fuel tanks with no problem. The trick is keeping some air moving through the tank at all times with all tank plugs and cap removed. We used a shop air regulator set about 5 or 10 psi blowing into the tank at all times while doing the repair. I had to repair the front tank supports on my 23C the same way. Just use the same as before, solder or braze. Mine needed solder.
 
Thanks for the response guys, I got a better look at it last night and it looks like it leaking at the front tank supports like yours Dieseltech. I [b:d641a386d3]don't[/b:d641a386d3] believe a sealer will fix that. Dieseltech did you solder or braze yours?
 

I use an old copper soldering iron to do most repairs on a tank. I have done small holes from under a car with gas residue remaining. I make sure the tank is drained well - then jack the vehicle to make sure the repair is not on the bottom where liquids will accumulate. Sand well use self tinning flus and with the iron I tin the area to be repaired. Some repairs I do with just a touch of solder - others I use some brass shim stock I cut the patch bigger than necessary - cut the sharp corners off & rounding them. (round corners seem to work better than sharp square corners ) Then I tin the patch and put a layer of solder over the patch. Using a hot iron I press the patch to the tank holding it with the hot iron. Then using the iron and flux core solder I finish soldering all the edges . If you aren't familiar with the old soldering irons look at yard sales , when you get one experiment with it before patching tanks. I use a map gas torch to heat the iron - watch the color of the iron it will change (DO NOT HEAT TILL RED!!) when I say the colors will change I am referring to a kinda translucent hue of different color (almost like a anodized color).Keep the iron clean and tinned -don't over heat it and you will be fine.Its a skill easily self taught and very valuable to know.
 

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