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Hi guys, If you've never done one of these, they can be a bit tricky, but I'll try to help. Above all else clean the area off as best as possible. Once you take the pump off the engine clean it again. When you take it apart keep it absolutely clean. I soaked mine in carb cleaner overnight, then rinsed in under flowinc water and blew it out with compressed air. Remove all fuel and injector lines. If there's fuel in the tank, you'll need a suitable container to catch fuel as it drains from the return line. You can shut off supply line at the bottom of the tank. Guys that do this all the time say it's not necessary, but I like to have the # 1 cylinder on the timing mark before removal. There is a small cover on the side of the injection pump approx an inch long and half inch wide. It is held on by two really short screws. Remove it. Behind it is a really finely scribed line on the head and on the governor. They can be very difficult to see, but line them up by turning the engine. The final alignment most likely will need to be done by turning the engine with a wrench. When the marks are lined up, remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the pump to the engine. You will also need to remove the throttle linkage from the pump shaft. Pull the pump up and off the engine. Fasten the pump in a suitable vise or holding fixture. Be careful not to damage the housing. Remove the bolts that secure the top cover and remove the cover. Pay strict attention to the linkage and how it is assembled in the chamber under this cover. Remove the long bolt from the backside, the J and C clips from the throttle shaft and remove linkage parts and metering valve from the pump. The final piece of linkage will come out in a later step. Remove the advance piston assemblies from the bottom of the housing. These are the large hex plugs on either side. Mark these per side, as they are not identical. Remove the plug from the bottom of this chamber. Now the tough part: If your pump has (and most of them do} the splined stud, you'll either need the special bristol bit tool to remove it, or you can fashion one from a T-45 torx bit. Grind the splines down unitl the T-45 fits the splines of the stud. Don't over grind it. DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT THIS STEP. THE STUD WILL SHATTER AND BE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE IF PROPER TOOL IS NOT USED. Remove the four screws that retain the charge pump to the back of the head. Notice the orietation of the eccentric pump ring. It is marked CC on one side and C on the other. You'll need to replace it in the same orientation at reassembly. Remove the two capscrews and the hollow stud that retain the hydraulic head to the housing. Twist/ pull the head from the pump. You may need to get forceful in this step. The governor assembly is attached to the front of the head by a snap ring. It may not come out as a unit if your governor retainer ring is gone. AGAIN IT IS CRITICAL TO PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ASSEMBLY. It is timed to the head (there are fine marks on the head and governor plate) and the weights and trust washer must go back as they came out. You'll see three rivet looking pegs on this part of the governor and three on the front piece. The rubber retainer ring remnants must be removed and the new reatainer ring stretched around these posts. A small snap ring plier works best to install the new ring. Install the ring with the + marks out. The peg holes are slightly recessed on this side. The drive shaft can be removed at any time after the pump is off the engine. This shaft is timed to the head as well. Do not get it in backwards. Pay special attetion to the cup seals. The face away from each other. Be careful not to roll the back one as you reinstall the pump. Assembly is essentially the reverse of removal. New seal kits are available from any Stanadyne Authorized Diesel shop for around thirty dollars. These include a new governor ring and more orings and parts than you'll find places for. If you have questions: BrotherBear2188 at AOL dot COM Hope this helps
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