8N no start my thinking

So got a call today from a guy with an early 8N as in front mount distributor. Good spark as in jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more. Does gas foul but cleaned the plugs a couple times. It will fire and kick the starter out but not stay running. I am thinking it is either low compression or a timing issue and it is timed a bit to far advanced. I would have checked the timing but did not have the manual with me and I also would have checked compression but again did not have the gauge with me. I plan to look at it again Saturday but figured I would see if you agree or maybe I need to look for something else
Thanks

My experience is that once a plug is fouled it is difficult to clean it so that it works. Years ago you could but something in the fuel changed that.

Spins good?

Good spark you said.

Will suck enough to wet plugs.

Is it only coughing and kicking out? Not actually starting and stalling?

Have you thumb tested each hole? Might have 3 stuck valves and only one cyl doing anything.

What brand are the plugs??????

Did not do but one hole with the thumb test but it did seem good there and it also seems to have at least some compression and no back push out of the carb.
Most of the time when it fires if kicks the starter out so you then have to let up and try again.
Gapped a old plug I had in the tool box out to about a 1/4 inch and had a good spark there.
It is a 12 volt conversion and yes it spins over strong
Has the NGK3112 plugs in it

NGK3112 plugs in it which I have found are far better then the champ or auto lite plugs

Once you get the basics covered, will it pull/push start?

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I am sure out of 72K post somewhere you gave advice on how to do a simple diagnostic approach to a no start...(maybe you forgot it) For sure you don't need a manual on the subject :shock:

If I get time I will search it fer'ya as I remember you like to keep it simple...

Did a quickly but did not refined the word search..



http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/search.php?search_author=old

Just needs to follow his own advice! "Do some simple trouble shooting". How soon he forgets! It was just today! :roll:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8441996&highlight=#8441996

Must be a good mechanic in the area you can get to help you?

Maybe he's pullin' our legs! tryin' to get us to think! :lol:

Forgot it happens...

http://www.virhistory.com/navy/manuals/et3.htm

Fuel issue is my 1st guess, points 2nd guess, but why guess? A systematic, logical problem solving method/approach to any issue to determine the root cause is always the best way to proceed. First, I'd get the right plugs. Original Ford 14mm Plug Spec was Champion H10. Now, since then, Champion came out with a hotter plug, the H12, now labeled '512'. Another very good plug is the AUTO-LITE 437 plug. Most of us N-OWNERS use this or the H12 Champion -both work equally as well. You say you have spark -that's a good thing. So, with engine COLD, take a can or pan and place under the carb on the ground. Using a good wrench, remove the carb drain plug on the bottom of the carb. Next, open the Sediment Bulb Valve 2 Full Turns. Observe that the fuel flow at the drain is a steady, almost pencil thick stream with no hesitation, sputtering, stopping, and starting. If so, you have plugged screens in the Bulb, a stuck float, and/or a dirty carb that will need rebuilding -when was that last done? If fuel drains fine, next is to shut off fuel valve, insert the drain plug, and remove the fuel inlet line at the carb and slip it out of the brass elbow and point down into the can. Open Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve 2 turns. Does fuel flow like I described above? If not again screens are probably plugged and Bulb Assembly needs to be removed and cleaned. CAUTION here as you must drain the gas tank before removing the Bulb Assembly. I just keep the fuel line off like described above and open Valve all the way until most of the gas is drained out into a gas can. There are three screens in the N-Series fuel system. Two are in the Fuel Sediment Bulb Assembly with one being on the top of the fuel inlet port. If you have to remove the Bulb Assembly, it unscrews but the note that the threads are NPT -National Taper Pipe and don't try to re-tap the tank female end. The first screen is the fine mesh screen and originally was soldered on but new aftermarket ones sold today are just glued on. Be careful cleaning it as they will come off easily and use your compressed air on it sparingly. The second in-line screen is on the top of the Bulb Assembly. Remove the glass jar. There will be a cork, don't use rubber, gasket and a brass fine mesh screen there as well. Clean and replace with anew cork gasket. The last screen is in the special brass elbow fuel inlet on the carb itself. That screen is also soldered on too so clean that good and replace. If there is a fuel leak at the sediment bulb, chances are the Valve Stem has a bad seal in it -they will get chewed up and go bad. The good news is a new valve stem kit, p/n APN-9194 is about $5 and you don't need a whole new Bulb Assembly. Try that and report back...


TPD

Got to check it out more today and found that it is sort of a timing issue since the points will not open to 0.015 due to bad distributor bushings. So will be ordering a new distributor for it soon

Have had this problem before with those small n tractors. Usually find when the starter kicks out like that when it tries to hit that the engine is severely flooded.

Yup, irregular points gap ain't good

Yes and I bet that is why it is hard to start if it can even be started

Why order a new distributor for bushings?

I am doing that due to the fact the whole distributor is in ruff shape. Breaker plate is pretty rough and all around it is in pretty ruff shape