Injector pump and wiring

OBwan

Member
1978 3600 diesel. Not been successful in finding info on searches and the FO.

The last fuel leak is the banjo fitting just aft the bleed screw on the injector pump. Stock pic posted for convenience. I assume it is the washers for the fitting; question is can I just remove and replace washers or is there something behind the bolt I need to be aware of?

Second is having difficulty with the wiring. Evidently there was a melting event by a PO and some wires are spliced with different colored wires. Some still have the insulation melted and some were rewired with whatever. I'm working at the ignition switch and the gauge panel. New ignition switch, terminal positions are different. I have identified the battery feed wire, neutral safety wire, thermostart wire and ignition wire. Haven't been able to find continuity on a wire from the switch to the inst panel or get power to the panel. Got a link to a wiring diagram with wire colors? Tips to troubleshoot with a multimeter?

Thanks,
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There are two sealing washers on the banjo fitting, Delphi 5936 332C mild steel are what works best. If you don't have a supplier close send me your address and I'll mail you some..
 

I had some washers that came with a pump that I had rebuilt, that I had no luck at getting to seal. I finally went to a local injection shop and got some different ones that made all the difference. Sorry I can't recall what they were.
 

Appreciate the offer but I have a gasket set I got to do the other areas.

May have most of the wiring worked out. There were a lot of extra wires spliced in there. A lot of redundant splices. I guess he ran wires direct to stuff he wanted to work. The inst panel may be due to a blown fuse. I'll get one soon.
 
An addendum that I want Dieseltech to confirm (went to Stanadyne school in the late 70's). When you look closely at the washers there is a "flat" (maybe ground) side, and a "curved" side. The flat side goes against the fitting or line, the curved side to the bolt and hydraulic head.
 
I call bullfeathers, washer has to seal on EACH side. Reason I prefer the Delphi washers is because the mild steel will crush slightly like the expensive copper washers do. Stanadyne/Roosa washers are extremely hard, so getting them to seal well is much more difficult. Flat side or curved side makes no difference, just shows up like that due to the stamping process. Both the hydraulic head port and banjo line end are flat also. Even Bosch pump inlet/return line washers have flat/curved sides made during stamping.
 
Must have been the personal perversion of the guy teaching my course. He also said not to use soft copper as there would be a chance of the bolts contacting the rotor. Was nice to meet you today.
 
Nice to meet you and other tractor nuts too! Only place I use the copper line washers is next to hydraulic head ports that are chipped away at the thread area. Funny he said don't use copper, that's all Roosa USED to seal the lines with before switching to steel. Copper washer #11354 is still available, BUT it's expensive..
 
The reason I was taking the course was that Chevy was getting the Olds 350 diesel for the 1/2 ton pickups (BAD-O mistake-O I think every one our dealership sold came back with a bent crank). Lot of differences in those DB2 pumps, maybe that was some of the difference.
 

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