Ford 2600 Steering problem

agr_700

New User
I am sure there is a thread, but I am new and not having luck figuring out how to search.
Have a 2600 diesel, that just stopped turning left. I have a feeling from looking around that the steering box bearing has given out. I
still need to get the tractor to the house, but thought I would ask for help before I get into this job. I have the manual, and feel
confident I can get the steering box out, but will need some help once I get there. Any advice gladly accepted.
 
I assume that it has the power assist steering? Does the steering wheel rise noticeably (more than 1/4" or so) when turning to the left? If so, then yes, it sounds like the upper thrust bearing has gone bad.

If you don't have one, get yourself a service manual, either the Ford factory service manual or the I&T FO-41. The I&T manuals are like the Chiltons manuals for cars, but for tractors. They cover almost everything that the factory manuals cover but for a bit less money.
 
Thanks for the heads up Sean. I do have the power assist. Can't say I noticed if the wheel was rising on the turn, but I will take a look.
I also wasn't clear if I had to pull the whole steering box out to do the bearings or not from the manual. I am assuming that the sector
gears are now out of whack and will need to pull the whole thing and just go over all of it.
 
Oh I misspoke. (typed). I have the full power steering, with the rams on each side. Looks like power assist is a different story.
 
Those tractors never had "full power steering". They only ever had power assist. The power assist system consists of two steering cylinders, one on each side, and a control valve inside the steering column.

It is highly unlikely that the the sector gears are out of time. They would have had to have jumped a tooth for that to have happened which is nearly impossible as the teeth are so large that they would have to have worn down considerably for it to be even a remote possibility. But if you are going to be doing the upper half it probably makes sense to pull it completely apart and make sure the lower bearing is refreshed as well. Putting it back together with the sector gears out of time is more likely than them going out of time on their own.
 
I would say it is a spring in your hydraulic block is broken. That or crud in there.
Sean, it is unlikely to be the upper bearing like on a non power steering box. These run in the ps oil and pretty much never go bad.
agr_700,
If you email me your phone # and a good time to call I could talk you through the disassembly, seal replacement and reassembly. It's a simple job but there are a few hints I could help you with.
Buy the I&T FO-41 at the link below FIRST.
Click here
 
Thanks Ultra. I should be able to start on the tractor Friday night, I will be in touch once I get more into it. This will be interesting as I think I have a few leaks to deal with, plus pretty sure I need injectors...this may turn into quite an overhaul.
 
Well, I got pretty far into this mess last night. Sean, the steering wheel was rising as I turned the wheel. I got it tore down to in/out lines from the power steering pump. The nut that retains the broken washer below seems to have traveled up the column. Guess my question would be if I should keep going or assume that this was the problem and move on to the other 10 issues I have?
20163.jpg
 
Great pics..


you probably found your problem. or not...

If you can reassemble.. set the washer to the correct pressure and STAKE the nut so it does not move.. and put a temp gas or diesel feed on it.. and try it.


BECAUSE.. we dont know if if the ball/springs in the hydraulic unit,,,, showing the picture.. have dirt or broken parts in them,, and we dont know if the bottom bearing is intact.... but since the cone washer was broken up... and If you can rig the tank , I would do a trial run, with out the cowling, but becareful to tape the back of the ignition switch and headlight switch, so it does not short-out on something,

Follow the exact instructions for tightening the crush or cone nut, back off precisely as said in the book, stake the nut so it does not move, and give it a try... If you dont use a punch to stake the nut, it will start to move over time causing it to usually loosen and your back to the same or opposite symptom. then completely reassembly column and tank..
 
Thanks so much. I think I will try and put this back together once I get the parts. I had to top off the power steering every once in a while so I am assuming this may help (all lines seem OK). I will keep poring over the unit until my parts get here. Now I need to go find a forum on how to get the injectors out.
 
Well, I am waiting on my parts (ordered new injectors and a wiring harness unbelievable amount of damage from Mice, figured I'm this far in why not). I am now having a heck of a time getting the injectors out. Any suggestions appreciated. Also, can anyone identify this part downstream of the air filter? It could not have been doing anything with so many wires chewed through, but might be good to know for later
20197.jpg
 
That is the sensor for the air flow that will light up a warning light on the instrument cluster if the air filter is clogged.
 
Hey all, making progress, got parts in, finally got the oil seal out of the bottom of the column, and the bushing out of the top (it had slid all the way down the column). Now I want to replace the O ring under the power steering valve assembly, but have seen several horror stories about the valves falling out and check balls rolling everywhere. I was thinking of trying to cut out a C shaped piece of cardboard to slide under the valve and hopefully retain the valves, but I am open to suggestion here. Hoping to get the steering assembly back together tomorrow afternoon, then get the new shutoff valve into the tank, remount it, then move on to the injectors and wiring harness.
 
OK so got to the part of the spring washer, got it tightened a little but not sure how far to torque it down. Manual says until no end play, which I am not sure what that means. Also I am assuming best to put the steering wheel back on so I am not torquing on it at the end of travel? Here's a picture of how far down it is at the moment. Seems there would be more thread showing before I back off the 1/6 turn and stake it per the manual.


mvphoto20654.jpg
 
Good evening everyone.

I have the tractor mostly together, then ran into a snag. I have a leak at the brake cross shaft (I think) on the clutch side. I say I think, because I have double checked the bolts on the PTO cover plate and the PTO inspection cover plates and they seem good and tight. I had a leak at the clutch side of the cross shaft when I brought the tractor home, so I put a new bushing in the clutch side, and new oil seals on both sides while I had the cross shaft out. There was some pitting on the cross shaft (see photo) but I wasn't sure if it would cause a problem. The fact that there's no leak on the brake side cross shaft seal makes me think the pitting must be the issue but wanted a second opinion. any suggestions appreciated.
mvphoto23231.jpg
 

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