1962 Fordson Super Major SIMMs Injector issue

gandl2123

Member
I have a 1962 Fordson super major 4 cylinder diesel engine that I've had running for some time but I've let it sit for a couple months. One day I tried to start it and it started but it would not rev and then died after further research I can see after taking the fuel lines off that I have diesel pumping out of the second and third injector Tower but not the first and fourth injector Tower.

to me this doesn't seem like a bleeding problem or are in a line problem because I've remove the lines and fuel must be getting to the injector pump to allow diesel to be injected out the second and third Tower but not the 1st and 4th.

I have taken the inspection with no off the front of the pump and I can see that the springs on all four plungers seem to be going all the way up and all the way down. There are no broken Springs or parts the acceleration rail moves back and forth like it should.

My question is what do I need to look at and what could possibly be wrong if only two of the four plungers are producing fuel at the injector? I have sprayed some nut Buster type of solution up into the top of the springs and still nothing. Any recommendations would be appreciated this tractor has less than 1600 hrs on it sat for many years and purr like a kitten with no smoke for a few months starting it every week or so. Now it will not run and only gets diesel fuel out of two out of the four plungers.

Thank you
 
Before you get involved with stripping the injection pump check your fuel flow from the tap
at the bottom of the tank, through the lift pump and through the filter. You should have a
good strong flow from the tank to the lift pump and from the filter when you operate the
lift pump.

A good squirt of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) on the springs and plungers and on the
rack in the injection pump will also work wonders. Do not try and make any adjustments to the rack and plungers,
this is best done at a specialist diesel shop. I have seen holes blown in pistons when
adjustments are made without the special tools.
 
I want to put it out there exactly what I did with this tractor and the status. when I first told it home I realized I had some injectors stuck and so I squirted as much carb cleaner as I could all over everything and was able to get the tractor running very nicely and everything was working great started every time for some months. but note this tractor had been sitting for probably 10-15 years in a field and ran like brand new but after I got the tractor I never change the oil in the injector pump I only squirted probably a can or more of carb cleaner while performing maintenance to get it running. then of course the dumb s*** part I've let it set and I've not changed the substances that have been in there for years and that I added to.

Today I'm going to go out and drain the pump completely and I guess I might as well just fill it with ATF. I have heard a suggestion on this site where you could actually fill the pump completely with some type of degreaser cleaner and then I suppose probably run it over several times over a period of a day or so and then drain it and fill it with clean oil. I will also check and make sure that I have good fuel level as well as good fuel flow and I will read lead everything all the way to the pump.

I really like this tractor and do not want to junk it but I refuse to put hundreds if not thousands of dollars into it injection pump for a 1962. But she is at gym with less than 1600 hours on her and she is just been abused as far as maintenance goes and I'm one of the perpetrators. The oil in the crankcase is probably 15 years old. I apologize I've been lazy I have the oil in the shop that was purchased for it recently just been so busy. Thanks for your help I will keep you posted. Lastly I've been using the nut Buster brand of fluid that's supposed to free rusted bolts. I've been spraying that on the plungers spring upper springs for a couple days.

sorry this is so long but one more thing to note after I removed all the fuel lines and look at the upper plunger area where the fuel lines screw onto the injector pump I noticed that after squirting a solution in the tops of these things just for the heck of it the injectors that are not pumping drain down overnight. stated again leave for plungers that are on top of the injector pump had fluid a very small amount in the top of each shredded area after 24 hours the tops of number 1 and number 4 which are not functioning at this time the fluid was missing or drain down while the fluid and number two and number three was still there. What is this indicative of I will try to get a picture and show you.
 
Update busted into the injector cover and lubricate everything and noticed that the slide rail was not moving got that moving and was able to get three or four pumping kept messing with it and was able to get 4 of 4 pumping problem solved. Bumpus drained look like it had rusty water in it really. Going to flush it out with a Degreaser of some type and fill it up and fresh oil.
I'm going to load it back up with 10 W 30 I hope that's not a problem or should be some kind of ATF for simple 10 weight?
 
Glad you have got it sorted. 1/3rd pint of your 10/30 oil is fine. Tip I learned on this
site is to occasionally add ATF to the fuel which lubricates and cleans the parts in the
fuel system. I now do this about every three fill ups and it works for me.
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:36 08/08/18) Glad you have got it sorted. 1/3rd pint of your 10/30 oil is fine. Tip I learned on this
site is to occasionally add ATF to the fuel which lubricates and cleans the parts in the
fuel system. I now do this about every three fill ups and it works for me.

how much ATF would you add to the fuel or I wonder if I couldn't just dribble a bit of it into the air breather from time to time? I also bleed the complete system and instead of disconnecting the line that goes from the fuel filter to the injector pump I was smart this time and glad the two 13 mm bolts that are on the face of the injector pump and that worked well.
 
21149.jpg
 
Think it be best to do a few fill, run & drains with oil in the injector pump. Better to lube then degrease.

Your tractor looks good! I remember the bent right brake pedal from your earlier posts. Wonder if independent braking was used a lot with the blade attachment that had been on it?
 
(quoted from post at 18:41:55 08/08/18) Think it be best to do a few fill, run & drains with oil in the injector pump. Better to lube then degrease.

Your tractor looks good! I remember the bent right brake pedal from your earlier posts. Wonder if independent braking was used a lot with the blade attachment that had been on it?

Yeah I may just let it run for an hour and drain fill again when I change oil and filter this coming week. Had cover off injector pump, drain plug off after draining out what looked like and Rand out like rusty water. I then flushed it out from the top with entire can of carb cleaner. Then I blew in every hole I could with compressed air. That got a lot of stuff out. Then I put 10sec or so of WD40 in the top plunger slrinslide area prior to putting cover back on her.

Then filled her w lint or so of 5w 30 Walmarts finest and secured the fill and level plugs. Started and let her put for 15 min. I don't know why but I love this tractor. Yes it's for sale. Visited the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn MI last week and thought I would send one of these but didn't. Even had thoughts of donating mine to museum....but then again it was built in ritain and they probably wouldn't want it anyways.
 
(quoted from post at 18:41:55 08/08/18) Think it be best to do a few fill, run & drains with oil in the injector pump. Better to lube then degrease.

Your tractor looks good! I remember the bent right brake pedal from your earlier posts. Wonder if independent braking was used a lot with the blade attachment that had been on it?

Yeah I may just let it run for an hour and drain fill again when I change oil and filter this coming week. Had cover off injector pump, drain plug off after draining out what looked like and Rand out like rusty water. I then flushed it out from the top with entire can of carb cleaner. Then I blew in every hole I could with compressed air. That got a lot of stuff out. Then I put 10sec or so of WD40 in the top plunger slrinslide area prior to putting cover back on her.

Then filled her w lint or so of 5w 30 Walmarts finest and secured the fill and level plugs. Started and let her put for 15 min. I don't know why but I love this tractor. Yes it's for sale. Visited the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn MI last week and thought I would send one of these but didn't. Even had thoughts of donating mine to museum....but then again it was built in ritain and they probably wouldn't want it anyways.
 

I think I will try that I got her lubed up pretty good right now and she runs pretty good I was trying to load a video but can't seem to get the little video of it running up.

please note this tractor used to have a blade on the front of it you can see that piece of metal that sticks underneath the front headlights and you can see some metal things hanging down from the side and there's big large bars underneath of it that held the blade.

I'm going to be getting rid of all of these things I don't want that piece on the front I want to find some weights and I don't want all the metal things hanging on the side or underneath so if anybody needs these things please let me know. Or they're going to scrap yard.
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:47 08/08/18) Have you checked the oil in the air breather? The can get water in them.

yeah I almost forgot about that I did take the air breather top off and look down in there and I could hear the are getting gurgle through the water or through the oil. whatever fluid I was looking at it's probably been in there for 15-20 years. How do I go about changing that? I'm looking through some Fordson manual that I ordered for $35 and it's absolutely useless. Lol
 

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