Tecumseh 16hp Stator Removal ???

Thanks for all the replies regarding my flywheel magnets. I picked up a beautiful flywheel and stator this morning for $50. I am now trying to remove the old stator which is rusted in place. Only two of the four holes in the stator were used to attach it, so I tapped the other two holes for 1/4 inch. I am using those tapped holes with my puller. I have quite a bit of tension on it right now with the puller and the stator does not want to move. I saturated it with PB Blaster and left it under tension for the night. Am I on the right track or is there something I am missing? I hammered on the end of my puller pretty hard thinking it would break free but it did not. I could use some heat but I do not want to damage the stator only because I am not positive the new one I got will work.

Hi I have a number of these engine but have never needed to to remove the stator so I can't help but can you contact the fellow you bought the flywheel and stator from and ask him how he removed it?
GB in MN

Mine was difficult too.. I ended up "helping" the puller by>
wedging 2 large chisels equally spaced BEHIND the stator..
BE CAREFUL NOT to crack the housing..
Put tension on the puller & give it a good wack.. popped right off..
Good luck.

The stator is mounted on a cast iron bearing cap/cover with a 3/8" shoulder that the stator plate slides onto,this slide fit is usually somewhat tight to begin with,over the yrs with the cast iron cap expanding/contracting inside the stator ring in addition to rust the two are probably fused together.

In the past I've used the wedge/chisle method and also a tie rod separator to gently walk the stator off the shoulder although none of my eng were as badly rusted,another thing you can try is put shorter 1/4" bolts into holes you tapped in stator & with a steel rod/pin punch and hammer gently tap bolts l/r to see if you can break stator loose so it moves/rotates on shoulder then try removing stator with wedges/puller.

This may sound like a silly question-If the replacement flywheel/stator are the same as what is now on eng why don't you just install new flywheel & flywheel nut and crank eng to check for spark??

Before cranking eng check air gap between LONG trigger pin on rear lip of flywheel & pickup on bottom of ign module,should be .005"-.010",if you have spark torque flywheel nut to 50 ft lbs,reinstall flywheel cover,leave connector from stator disconnected from tractor wiring harness,fire up eng & check for voltage on 2 outside pins of stator connector,for 20A stator service manual calls for 32v+ AC@ 2500 rpm & 45v+ AC@3600 rpm,if you can get these readings then you're good to go,after that reconnect stator to tractor wiring harness to check rectifier/regular and to see if battery is being charged.