Proper RPM speed of bailer

Farmallb

Well-known Member
I posted in here a couple weeks ago about the possiblity of speed being a factor that my 1950 140 W Case wasn't tying.
Someone posted that they found after 60rpm their bailer started occasionally missing ties. They DIDNT say what breed of bailer they were talking about OR whether twine or wire tie.
IF they wernt talking about a wire tie Case 140, then their info likely wouldn't apply to my bailer.
 
I think that could be true with almost any bailer. They were made to run at the right speed. I know there is probably someone on here that will brag on how fast they run a bailer and how much they bailed. A steady speed and keep it running is the best.
 
I think most balers and other PTO equipment for that matter, are intended to run at pto speed, normally 540 rpm. If you don't have a tac you can count the "strokes per minute" of the baler to get a proper RPM. Different balers are rated at different strokes per minute. It may show in your operator's manual or you can find it on line.
 
My new holland baler would miss tie if I tried running it at 540 rpm borrowed a hesston in-line baler and it would miss tie at 540 as well
 
This is an engine bailer, if that might make a difference. I would think that the PTO speed, and the flywheel speed might be different on some older bailers.
 
There are several inherent qualitys that apply to all bales,irregardless of brand. Over,or under speeding is at the top.There are knotter principles that also apply here.Waer in the twisters,the knife/anvil ,grooves all contribute to mistying on all brands. Over speed(or under speed) can exacerbate the problem.Your problem is most likely not a 'Case only' problem.
 
I don't remember having a problem with our JD, it was one of the newer versions with a mechanical kicker, bought new about 66. I used to run it wide open to fill the back of the wagon and then slow down a little to fill the front. I could idle down the JD R and just pop them in the very front.
 
Red, I agree with you, BUT, that bein the case, I would think that diff brands of bailers had different rpms that they ran best on.
 
In theory all machines are made to run at one of 2 speeds. 540 or 1000RPM. It was industry standard but yes now all machines are made equal and even taking say 5 balers made by the same company and the same model one will work better at a fast RPM while another will work better at a lower RPM if it the fact nothing can be made to be 100% the same
 
I commented about our 133 Case twine tie but I posted that info I thought. I wasn't familiar with the 140w.
 
And, Im assuming it was you that said that after 50 RPMs the 133 would occasional start to miss ties?

Was your bailer twine or wire.
IF wire, like mine that could be significant as maybe Case made both bailers to run at the same rpms.
 

My NH 270 baler was designed to operate at 70 strokes per minute and is geared to run 70 spm at 540 pto rpm.
Due to wear and age and possibly larger windrow sizes today it will miss tie a few bales when operating it this speed, I have found if I slow the baler down a little (60-65 spm) it will hardly ever miss tie.
This equals to dropping tractor engine speed a couple hundred rpm. We only bales a few hundred squares per year so it's not like I'm in a big hurry.
Actually get done quicker because I don't have to rebale as much.

If you calculate to pulley ratios and divide the engine rpm you'll find engine driven bales flywheel speed is nearly the same as a tractors pto speed.
 
I have two thoughts. First, what speed does the manual say it should be run at? The second is I have a 230, and if I clean the knotter good and spray lubricate it, it ties 150 to 200 bales almost flawlessly, then it starts to miss-tie until I clean all of the chaff and grease and spray lubricate again. (I have adjusted bill hook tension to no effect)There are other things that effect it, knotter adjustment, wet hay, etc.

One last thought, try running a little hay thru then let the plunger clear the bale chamber, cut power to the PTO, then trip the knotter and have someone turn by hand and see if it ties a knot, and if it doesn't see if you can spot why.
 
I usta, after it quit tying on a regular basis use Never Seeze on the tying mech. It would tie great, but that slowly didn"t help anymore.
Is your a wire or twine tie?
 
Funny thing is, The flywheel on my 140 is around twice the dia of modern bailers. I would assume that that was a means of slowing the strokes down to a manageable level, whether using a Case air cooled engine like mine has, or using another engine that most all of the bailer manuf used. including Case.
 
Well, the mechanics are way different, and much more numerous on a twine tie than on a wire tie.
 

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