JD 435 twine problem

keb273

New User
Hi,
New to baling. We bought a jd 435 and it rolls great rolls but we cannot get it to start wrapping with twine without messing with the twine wrap rope. Then it would still take a while to kick in - we would wait, or drive forward, or back up and it would sometimes engage- and might only wrap bale 3x before stopping or wrap loosely - and one time wrapped it great on one side and loose on the other - only did 2 acres to make sure we had all of our equipment figured out. Probably user error. We have been over manual many times. We are trying to make 4.5 ft bales, but also made 6 ft to see if it would ever automatically start wrapping and it didn't. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

Welcome to YT
Have you checked hyd oil level in hyd pump? How long since hyd filter was changed? No hay is needed in baler to cycle twine arm just lock tailgate in closed position then move hyd control lever similar to raising tailgate until 3+ can be seen in bale size window on RH side of baler. Engage pto,pull rope then twine arms should cycle. Loose twine is normally caused by loose bale or possibly groove worn in twine restriction plates(key 16 &/or 8/9 2nd photo) .

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Jim covered it pretty well. The only thing I would add is to make sure the pump drive belt is in good shape. Also make sure all the springs/linkage on the tightening system are there and moving freely. A slipping belt can cause weird tie problems. Simple in theory system but they can be a pain to get to work when they have set anytime. Linkages sticky and weak springs.

So look at the tensioner pads like TxJim posted. Also make sure the knifes are sharp. They need to leave a longer tail, I liked 6-8 inch tail. Too short and the twine will not start on the bale. Then you need to be taking in hay when the arms start to cycle. This will pull the tails in with some hay to start the tie cycle. You adjust the number of wraps of twine with the little knobs on the hydraulic restrictors.

Just a word about how a 35 series baler works. The wrap/twine system is all mechanical and hydraulic. To really fine tune it the oil needs to be up at operating temperature. When cool or cold you will get more wraps of mesh or twine. The oil flows slower through the restrictors. So that is just how they are. IF you set them when they are cool/cold then they will put on less wrap/twine when they get up to temperature. Also you need to readjust the tie system when you change bale diameter. Larger bales require the twine/wrap to run longer to get the same spacing/wraps as a smaller bale would. When doing custom work this was kind of a PAIN as guys would want different size bales and then you where playing with the restrictors to get the wraps/spacing right. Big improvement on the newer balers as that is all handled in the monitor.

The tensioner system makes the twine pull a little hard so it is tight on the bale. IF the twine pulls too easy it will be lose on the bale.

How tight are you making your bales??? I usually ran the gauge at the top of the green. I want TIGHT bales. If your tractor SCV has an internal leak and the gauge drifts lower you will not get tight bales, then the twine can look lose.
 
Thank you for your input. The hydraulic fluid level is good, but I am not sure how long it has been since the filter was changed as we just got it, but we will get it changed this week. I found the twine distance was set to 8" apart which would account for only 6 twines on some bales, so I have adjusted that down for more wraps. We do have a good length tail on the twine ends. We will check out the other suggestions when my husband gets home. We have mowed another 2 acres so we can try it again Wednesday.
 

The tie arms went through their cycle when
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we pulled the rope as you described. We dont see any wear on tension plates. However we did find a spring hooked to some bindertwine that probably should hook somewhere - with a correct spring length. If my photo uploaded could someone tell me where it should go? Thank you. I have a manual, but cant seem to find a complete parts diagram.
 

Ok. I found it. This looks like it should be connected to the twine trip rope. We have attached it as pictured in the manual removing the twine that was on there.
 

In your photo is tail gate on baler closed? If so the movable latch is supposed to be forward under arm that blue twine is attached to that one must pull to cycle twine arms.

Latch being forward shifts spool valve up when springs tighten mechanism when enough hay enters baler to cause twine tubes to move from LH side of baler to RH side.

Check to be sure stud(48A) or ramp(48B) contact/push bracket(10)"""forward when gate is CLOSING""".


Blue twine one pulls to cycle twine arms is designed to fit through chain link on small spring.

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