hand crank compatability for Pacer

Bob LaBrie

New User
My No. 16 1955 Pacer has a crank shaft jaw nut that will accept a hand crank, however I can't seem to find a hand crank for sale that will fit my Pacer. Some of the Ford and IH hand cranks on ebay look like they would fit, but am not 100% sure.
Any ideas what the dimensions are for a hand crank to fit my Pacer?
Thanks, Bob
 
Appreciate that, yeah but where can I get one. I only see cranks on ebay for Fird or IH and they call out compatibility fit some MF's but I need to know the dimensions of the Pacer crank. Like each bend
Any idea where I can get one.. Or if I make one, what are bends and what diameter pin do I install on the tip and does it need to be stainless or anything special ?
Bob
 
Thanks smoke. Can you measure the crank and it's bends... and maybe estimate how much too long it is so I cold look at making one. For pin, Whats the diameter and how long is the pin?
Bob
 
This is a crank for an early Pony. The later Ponys and Pacers had a socket on the end that would fit the lug bolts. It is 3/4" diameter. The parts book for the Pacer says the crank is 9/16, either size should work. A crank for a 44,33 or 22 is 7/8 diameter and will not fit in the crank jaw. The overall length is 19". long part is 13-1/2" middle is 7-1/2" and handle is 5". The pin is 5/16 diameter and 1-3/8" long. It is at a 45 degree angle when the crank is laying flat. You should be able to make one. Hope this helps.
a181328.jpg
 
Incredibly detailed Wayne. Thank you. That's exactly what I was looking for. it never occurred to me that the pin was by design to be at 45 degrees in that position. I wonder why that is... design or random?
This is awesome. Thank you for taking the time.
Bob

I was about to pull the trigger in this one "hoping" it would fit.
and am sure glad I didn't.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121377844356?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

One more question? From the photo it appears that the center of the hole for the 5/16" interlock pin is about what - maybe 3/4" from the tip end of the crank?
 
The center of the pin is 1/2" from the end of the crank. The engine usually stops rotation in the same place, so the pin at 45 degrees puts the crank handle at the top or the bottom to start hand cranking.
 
Interesting... ok thanks Wayne. So I have two ideas. 1.) Last I checked, a concrete forming stake was 3/4" diameter and has holes drilled around the circumference at different locations to accommodate those double headed nails. I could loop off the tapered end 1/2 inch from the center of one of the nail holes... assuming the nail hole is smaller than 5/16" it will serve as a pilot hole... then heat the stake and bend it per spec as seen in your photo.
2.) I have some spare 3/4" tubing.... not sure of the wall thickness ga but it's pretty thick. How as heavy as 11Ga. I know that. Anyway what about cutting three pieces and welding them together and drilling a 5/16 hole and welding the drive pin in place.
The Pacer 91 cu in. continental flat head was rebuilt about 10 years and has no more than 20 hours on it. The point being I don't know how much compression there is and what the resistance will be on the crank.
Any other ideas, comments or suggestions on how to cobble one together?
Bob
 

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