(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

MF 135 Diesel clutch problem.

T

Theoutdoorsman

Member
My 135 Diesel was low on fluid, and making a ticking sound in the transmission area. The sound would become more noticeable when I pressed the clutch. I added some Traveler UTF from Tractor Supply, and the noise became nonexistant again, and all sounded good. Everything worked good before adding the fluid. However, now the clutch won't disengage when pressed ???? I can change all the gears just fine with the tractor off, but it just grinds when trying to put it in gear while running now. Too, I can no longer engage the PTO while running. I "can" get it into Low 1 and reverse while running, but its difficult. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal to no avail. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. By the way, my fluid looks milky white, and needs dumped/refilled, but I hate to go through the expense changing it before knowing it could be the culprit. Thanks for any advice.
 


There is a plate under the bell housing, remove the 4 bolts holding the plate on. You can adjust the clutch from that hole, but since it acted up after you put fluid in it, it make have some leaking transmissions seals. There should be a weep hole behind that with a cotter pin that helps keep it open, if the pin is missing, and weep hole is plugged with dirt you have some fluid mixed with water in the bell housing with the clutch. So don't be directly over that plate when you remove it unless you like getting really dirty, and oily.
 
Image:
a275512.jpg
 
In the first pic I see metal fragments which usually is the clutch rivets. Don't see any signs of oil or fluid so seals are probably ok. The pto adj. gap looks extreme. I'm thinking a split with new clutches and throw out bearing. Let us know.
 
Looks like it was just chance the clutch developed a problem after you added the fluid to the transmission. I also agree on the pto clutch adjustment, it shouldn't be that much. With the parking brake locked, and the rear wheels blocked to keep the tractor from rolling I'd look clutch while having someone work the clutch pedal just to see what the clutch is doing.
 
How wide of a gap should I be seeing? And where exactly? I know there are 3 adjustment screws, and it needs to be even all the way around. Am I looking at a gap between the head of the bolt? I don't mind adjusting to see if it helps. I simply don't understand what gap I need to be looking at. Can't hurt to try, right? Thanks for the input!
 
Using a feeler gauge at the 3 bolts adjust to between 60 to 90 thousand's. Book is 90 but everyone goes less.
 
Holy cow! Thats an insane amount of gap that I have currently. The clutch has NO issues in terms of bite. Just cant disengage her. I have some serious adjusting to do. I'll give it a go shortly. Thanks for the info. I'll get back to ya soon ....
 
Found another larger part today when i took the inspection plate off. Had to feel around for it hoping I wouldn't find more but, unfortunately, I did. Considering doing it myself. It would be my first ever tractor split ...
 
Spitting it to do a clutch job is not too hard to do. I'd rather do that than drop a transmission out of car, or truck to do a clutch job.
 
Be sure to get a manual. It's not a biggy if done correctly, level surface, either a cherry picker or boom. You tube helps too. Buy all thread to align when going back together. I too had a first time and got my help here also.
 
I'm confident I can do it, I just don't have a reliable helping hand. Can anyone help with a quality service manual, and the correct replacement clutch?
 
You can get a brand new MF shop manual from AGCO http://www.agcopubs.com/
You can go here, and view the parts book as a guest user, www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx?region=NorthAmerica On the page enter in the model number, and select Massey Ferguson from the from down menu, and you are there.
 
The I&T manual is good supplement to the MF in some ways. I've bought new clutches from different places, and for the most part they are made by the same company. It's best to get a complete clutch kit that has the throw out bearing, with the lineup tool for the clutch disks. While you have it split it's a good idea to change out all the seals/gaskets on the front of the transmission, and the rear main seal on the engine. You don't have to change the seals out if they are not leaking, but they could start to leak on your new clutch soon after.
 
I believe you have the same Dual Clutch as on my Model 50. I just split my tractor to do an engine overhaul and when putting it back together did not line the clutch up correctly and ended up with some of the same pieces that you have.....

The first two pics you have i believe are broken cotter pins that hold the dowel in place for your "fingers" to hinge around. If your clutch won't disengage... (like mine) after I put my tractor back together, then you may have a down finger. Which would mean one or more of your fingers wont release preassure from your friction disc. If you're lucky...your dowel just worked loose and your finger dropped.

If you are unluckly like me... then you also broke the hinge part off of the clutch. Which from picture number three...looks like that piece. I can't tell how thick that metal is, but it looks like the piece from the side view. Mine is 1/2" thick or so. And its not normal steel so I don't think it could be welded easily, I believe it may be cast Iron and you are looking at a dual clutch assembly. You'll have to split the tractor regardless.

Also, word of wisdom... the torque specs for the 4 nuts holding the clutch to the flywheel are wrong in the MF agco manual. I got 20 lbs away from what it said and spun the stud in the tapped hole in the flywheel. I ended up applying a generous amount locktite and torquing them all down 25 lbs under what the manual says.
a279005.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Massey 180 won't turn over unless the clutch is disengaged.
2
Replies
21
Views
754
Dieseltech
D
R
135 mf with a perkins diesel, the lift barely works
Replies
3
Views
327
Clarkbug
C
J
135 Clutch parts
2
Replies
29
Views
15K
MasseyMike
M
D
Mf 135 clutch id
Replies
12
Views
548
Dbrace
D
L
TE 20 DRIVE PROBLEM
Replies
1
Views
120
used red MN
U
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top