MF 65 Good Deal? Lift Arm Problem

JBlavl

Member
Got a guy that's selling a tractor bundle. Ford 631 that's a project as it doesn't run, but has brand new rear tires. And a MF 65 that runs but the 3 point arms do not work.

Guy told me he tried to add fluid to the MF 3 pt arms by removing a cover that's right under your right butt cheek as you sit on the tractor. When he removed the cover it was under pressure and shot out oil. After they got the cover off and added oil and put it back together the arms didn't work. He also mentioned he thinks his cousin forgot to put an o ring back on when they were reassembling. Long story short. The arms did work, but now they don't. Does this sound like a minor or major issue to resolve? If anyone has a parts break down of this system I'd appreciate that.

Also, the hubs are different 6" vs 8" bolt pattern, but any idea if the rims would swap between the MF and Ford? The tires are all 13.6-28. Seems like the rims might be interchangeable too. But would like to know before I buy the Ford too as I'm really only interested in the tires.

Thanks in advance.
 
It sounds like the current owner is a little mechanically challenged. Why not just add "fluid" through the "fluid fill" hole?

If they removed the cover where a remote hydraulic valve would be added, there is a standpipe under the cover. It has O rings on it. If an O ring was omitted it would be a problem. A very easy fix if that is the problem.
 
They probably didn't get the stand pipe back into the pump, it's a easy fix. If the rims are the same (like a 6 loop) they may work, but you can always just have the tires changed out. A tire man who knows how to change them can do it pretty quick.
 
I was figuring that the lift arms should be an easy fix based on what he said but I've never messed with one so I guess I will find out. The price is right so if I can't figure it out then they'll go back down the road easy.

The new tires on the Ford are loaded so that will be a bit more of a challenge if I have to take them off the rim.

Slightly molested but overall in decent shape. Needs a little TLC but she should do what I want.

mvphoto21580.jpg
 
If you aren't doing any hard pulling with it you don't need loaded tires anyways. Unloading them is not that big of a deal, just takes a little time.
 
(quoted from post at 18:16:19 08/16/18) I seriously doubt the 641 has spin out wheels like the 65.

You are correct. No spin out wheels on the Ford. Which turns out to be a 631 once I was able to scratch the layers of paint off the serial and model number. MF is a 4 bolt spin out and the Ford is a 6 bolt fixed.

I ended up buying both. Drove the MF home. She runs great just needs a few odds and ends to be field ready. Still havent had a chance to look at the 3 point yet but I have a service book for it now. The Ford on the other hand. She makes a lot of noise while running. Something is not happy inside of her.

I found a local guy that can swap the tires out in a couple hours he said. Going to have that done next week and I'll put the Ford out for sale, as-is!
 
Update: My 3 point lift arm problem was a missing O ring on the cap of the lift cover. I replaced that O ring and the 2 on the stand pipe, made sure it went into the pump as I found that was very easy to miss, fired the tractor up and the arms went straight up. But wouldn't come down. Took the side cover off where the dipstick is and found that moving the levers did not move the lever assemblies. They were stuck in the support bracket and held the pump arm in the up position. No clue how that happened but I pushed the pump arm forward with my finger the the levers popped free and they go up and down just like they are suppose to now. While in there I noticed the oil was a milky brown color and thin. Drained it all out and replaced with 80W-90 that looked like oil is suppose to look!!!!

Problem I have now is when the pump is dis engaged the arms start coming down in quick order. I know there are several things that could contribute to this but what is the most likely? I'm guessing ram rings are shot.
 
80W90 if it's gear oil is the wrong oil, it should use 90wt mineral oil. The seals for the lift cylinder are probably shot especially if they are dropping that fast without no weight on the lift arms.
 
(quoted from post at 12:39:24 10/08/18) 80W90 if it's gear oil is the wrong oil, it should use 90wt mineral oil. The seals for the lift cylinder are probably shot especially if they are dropping that fast without no weight on the lift arms.

I'll look at the service manual again but I recall it specifically saying run 80 weight in cold weather and 90 weight warm weather. Regardless it's working so I am not going to change it now.

Is changing rings on the piston ram a big ordeal or relatively straight forward? Never dealt with hydraulics much before.
 
(quoted from post at 07:23:36 10/09/18)
(quoted from post at 12:39:24 10/08/18) 80W90 if it's gear oil is the wrong oil, it should use 90wt mineral oil. The seals for the lift cylinder are probably shot especially if they are dropping that fast without no weight on the lift arms.

I'll look at the service manual again but I recall it specifically saying run 80 weight in cold weather and 90 weight warm weather. Regardless it's working so I am not going to change it now.

Is changing rings on the piston ram a big ordeal or relatively straight forward? Never dealt with hydraulics much before.

Some modern oils/fluids may work but there are two issues. One, the original spec is for mineral oil. It is still available, often as a special order through Napa or similar auto parts supplier. The other is that many new oils are not "yellow metal" safe. There are many brass/bronze bearings and bushings in these old machines and modern oils can cause much damage to them. Another alternative, and what I have been using, is regular motor oil. Works good, is yellow metal safe and much less time to warm up than mineral oil when the weather gets cold. Pretty sure I used 15W40 last time I changed it out.
 

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