G1000 heating

minniemo705 · May 16, 2018

OK, what a night. Someone has to have had a similar problem on the G1000 getting hot. 1st gear at about mid throttle, not working hard, it gets close to the red. It had the thermostats out, but I replaced them- spit water out and got into red. took forever to cool. Took thermostats out- almost the same result. Put a 13# cap on in place of the 9# one and now water stays in and it stays out of the red but it takes about 15 minutes to cool. The water pump is new, but feeling around on motor seems to draw me to a water pump issue. It just does not seem like it's circulating. No, there are not gasket issues. When buying the water pump, I replaced it with the same style, but what I read said I could have gotten the one for the G705 or GVI. Those look like a smaller diameter impeller, but is there some sort of difference there that matters- like I said, feeling around on stuff seems to get me right to the pump. It's a 66 wheatland if that makes a difference.

carvel minne farmer · May 16, 2018

good evening minnemo, john here, I have had the same problems on welders the last 5 years, I buy 10 180 degree t-stats at a time. when I get them home I bring them in the house, put 4 or 5 at a time strung on a piece of hay wire across a pot full of water. turn on the heat, moniter the temp with a thermometer, when it gets close to 180 I watch the t-stats to see which ones are opening, I have been averaging 3 to 4 good t-stats/10 :evil: the rest usually won't open even with the water at full boil!! BUT with you taking the t-stat out that should eliminate that? shot in the dark here minnemo could it be air locking?? if the temp guage is up high in the water jacket, loosen the guage fitting where it go's into the jacket and see if you get antifreeze right away or air?

F-MM · May 17, 2018

I took a vista radiator into the radiator shop and he showed me what was wrong, it had good flow (I thought) but when he removed the top from the core and hooked the water supply up to the bottom hose connection water shot up to the ceiling but it was only coming out of a few tubes, the rest were clogged, he said there's your problem, it flows ok but how can it cool when all the water is going through a few of the tubes, I think he had to rod that core out or else maybe that was the one he had to replace with a new core. Anyway, there can be a lot more going on that just the thermostats and pump. Just things you may be running into!

minniemo705 · May 17, 2018

Well the radiator was in the shop to have some holes patched, and I thought he checked it for flow and that, but I'll call him and ask. I never thought about air lock and will try that. Frustrating cause this tractor motor had been totally rebuilt, then one block split on the guy and he let it sit for years. I got it and got it going and it runs like it's brand new. The starter barely has time to crank it over once before it's running in 60 degree weather and when it was in the 30s it fired up when I just looked at the ether can. Thanks guys for the suggestions.

Curt Cooke · May 17, 2018

I vote radiator. In this hobby I have been amazed at what grief a radiator can cause you. My 4Star Super LP was a heat problem. I ran it with and without thermostats. I fired it up in the yard without the upper radiator hose connected to verify the pump. After I had tested everything that a genius would, I blew the trash off the surfaces of the radiator fins. Problem solved. Had a repeat of that on a Massey 230. Bit I did have a cooling issue with my 900 miraculously cured by installing the larger water pump. In short, the condition of the radiator is more important than one might think. Keep us posted.
CC

Howard H. · May 17, 2018

One time I put a big brand new cast-iron water pump on a big 534 V8 irrigation engine. And then spent the next 3 days trying to figure out why it would heat up over a few hours...

I finally found (after taking the pump back off) that the impellers were not tight on the shaft! They would just freewheel spin.

When you say the "gaskets are good", I assume you mean you are positive you don't have a compression leak internally?? The water doesn't get milky, does it?

Howard

molinegb · May 17, 2018

Check top and bottom rad hoses to compare temperatures. Should be able to tell if circulating. Should be able to see movement when rad cap removed cold. Always seems to aim back to rad.

minniemo705 · May 17, 2018

Yes, I'm positive there are no compression leaks, and the bottom hose and pump are not warm. So does that sound like the radiator is plugged, or it could possibly be air locked which I haven't got to yet. Will check that this weekend.

J.Wondergem · May 19, 2018

Just a thought, but have you stuck a thermometer in the Radiator when it hot?

minniemo705 · May 19, 2018

no, but another person suggested that, too. So i'm gonna try all suggestions. thanks

unc · May 19, 2018

Just a thought- is the fan shroud in place, and is the fan positioned correctly in it? unc

MMDEL · May 21, 2018

You said the block was split and it sat for years. So I assume it was drained. What usually happens is the lime and scale in the head and block dries out and comes loose. when you get it running again that crap circulates to the top of the radiator and plugs the top of the cores. When ever I restore an engine that has sat, especially if it was drained, I always install a filter in the top hose to catch the deb re. When the filter fills and plugs, engine gets warmer, I clean the filter and go again till it doesn't bother anymore. Then put hoses back where they belong. The only way to get that heavy stuff out is to remove the radiator and turn upside down and back-flush. The particles are too heavy to lift and flush out with the radiator upright on the tractor.
MMDEL

minniemo705 · May 22, 2018

Yes it was drained and it looks like I'm gonna pull the radiator off, but it's gonna be a bit now because right now I'm irrigating and I have to get the swather and balers ready for haying. Time just seems to slip away.

Howard H. · May 23, 2018

You are sure right about that, MMDEL!!

I fired up an old MM 800 irrigation well one time after it had been sitting dry all winter. The irrigation wells don't even have radiators. It just circulates water through a set of cooling coils in the pumped water that is loops of about 1 1/2 inch copper line - and there is a reservoir tank to hold excess water.

Anyway, it fired up fine - and everything was good, so I left - but then came back a few hours later to check it. Still running great, but I wanted to look in the tank to make sure the water level was still good. I couldn't get the cap loose - so I tapped on it to get it loose. Checked the water and it was fine and left again.

When I came back a few hours later - it was dead!

Anyway, long story short is - when I tapped on it - it dislodged some sheet flakes of crud just like you mentioned that were big enough to have sealed over the bottom inlet on the reservoir tank causing it to heat and die.

Howard

G1000 heating

minniemo705

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carvel minne farmer

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F-MM

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minniemo705

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Curt Cooke

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Howard H.

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molinegb

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minniemo705

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J.Wondergem

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minniemo705

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unc

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MMDEL

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minniemo705

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Howard H.

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