New to me GVI 1962 Diesel

I live down South (NC), and the MM aren't too popular down here. I've always wanted one since they are more rare down here. I currently pull a Farmall 560D. Id like to get this up and running well and see what she will do too. Seems like lots of tractor. Im a bit worried about finding parts for it. Grille is pretty rough, seat, fenders need work. Pretty typical stuff, I suppose.

Look forward to browsing this forum and learning about these tractors.
 
The G VI LP tractors were common around here. I have 8 on LP Gas. Looked for several years before I added a Diesel to the collection. Parts aren't that hard to come by. Ask and people here will help.

Picture of the G VI loaded and headed for home.
Couldn't resist a picture driving it into it's new home.
A few of it's family members.

It should feel right at home here.
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Well Roger, arent you just the showoff! KIDDING! That is a nice GVI, and also a nice stable of Minnie Mos you have there! Im a bit jealous.

I was looking at getting a U, and pulling it a little bit, but in the past, I had a strange love affair with the Massey 97 and this GVI spoke to me. And the price is right, so Im gonna bite the bullet. I dont know if you have ever been to Keystone Tractor Museum in Virginia, but it is really nice. You can search online and you can see the 97 I was talking about. They have three custom exhaust coming through the hood, it pretty sweet.

These forums are priceless. The Red Power forum has really helped me along with my 560 IH pulling tractor. I know this site will do the same.

Thanks for the reply!

Mike.
 
(quoted from post at 12:51:12 07/14/18) The G VI LP tractors were common around here. I have 8 on LP Gas. Looked for several years before I added a Diesel to the collection. Parts aren't that hard to come by. Ask and people here will help.

Picture of the G VI loaded and headed for home.
Couldn't resist a picture driving it into it's new home.
A few of it's family members.

It should feel right at home here.
a273469.jpg

a273470.jpg

a273471.jpg

Lol... So do you have any tractors?
Sweet .. look like the are all under cover too.. I'd love to see a pic of the loader.. the lines look kinda like what mine has.. but I have no bucket.... would you mind posting pics of the Bucking and the mechanism if it's a trip bucket anyway.... thanks, Mark
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:07 07/13/18) I live down South (NC), and the MM aren't too popular down here. I've always wanted one since they are more rare down here. I currently pull a Farmall 560D. Id like to get this up and running well and see what she will do too. Seems like lots of tractor. Im a bit worried about finding parts for it. Grille is pretty rough, seat, fenders need work. Pretty typical stuff, I suppose.

Look forward to browsing this forum and learning about these tractors.


Hey Sneaky -

I really like the old "meat and potatoes" wheatland tractors - especially like the GVI, GB, G705, etc, too...

Out here on the Texas high plains, LP tractors are pretty common, while the diesels are harder to find.

Post some pics once you get it home! There are still lots of parts around.

Here is one of mine (can't find any pics of my GVIs right off):

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Howard
 


I'm totally with you. My first love was a 560 Wheatland I saw in my buddies shop. Then I discovered the Massey 97/98. Again, MM isn't too popular down here. My buddy pulls a nice clean "U". And after I started pulling more frequently, I liked the fact that there isn't many of the MM's down here. So I got to looking. I couldn't decide if I wanted to pull above or below my Farmall 560 classes. Then I remembered "size matters". :) But I stumbled across this one that I felt was reasonable, so bigger won out.

I'm headed to get it Friday night, pick it up Sat AM, and drag it home Sat. Pics will certainly be taken.
 

Yeah....Id like to discuss this with you....im very interested. I had read up on this and it seems like a pretty awesome swap from what I can read.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:54 07/16/18)
Howard, you guys know what a tree looks like down there? LOL I can send you one to plant if you need me to.


Lol... yeah - we’ve got books with pictures!! So, yes - we’ve heard of trees!

That’s one reason smaller tractors are fairly uncommon out here - the fields just go on forever... historically, farmers out here stuck with the biggest and heaviest old horses they could get...


Howard
 
So, what tire/rim combo are you running there? As a puller, I assume the engine weight does not require any weight up front? My 560D is so front heavy, I barely need any weight up front.
 
Currently run 18.4 on 20, have tried 20.8 but think too much floation in 7500- 10,500 range. Nose heavy so mid brackets carry enuf weight. M/560 family hard to beat, here's my grand on his M.
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(quoted from post at 21:49:17 07/19/18) Currently run 18.4 on 20, have tried 20.8 but think too much floation in 7500- 10,500 range. Nose heavy so mid brackets carry enuf weight. M/560 family hard to beat, here's my grand on his M.
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Very cool.. I'm going to see if I can find some videos..
 
ok boys?.I got her her home. I have an issue. There is a worn spot on the very front injector line. they tried to fix it with solder, but it didnt work. Spraying fuel all over. Do any of you guys have a parts
GVI, I know where I may can get a used line? I assume a pump shop may can make an injector line? I just spent an hour pressure washing all the Pennsylvania mud off it.

On another note...Its a stanadyne pump. How are they to tune for pulling?


20 muleteam, thanks for advising about those rear rims!
 

Where is the leak on the line? If it is not right on the end, it might be pretty simple to repair. I've brazed up several lines on my old JD 4840 over the years. The main trick is just clean it up good and support it very well all up and down the line for the actual braze, so it doesn't bend or kink while hot.



Howard
 
Yeah, its between the head and the I assume its a water tube for the heads? whatever is directly above the injectors.
 
So, its been a big week of tractor work, and getting in there and seeing what I have. The dopey fuel filter system bugged me. They have a large sprayer (plastic) filter plumbed into the next, Stanadyne glass filter set up to the injection pump. Seems like a lot of work, when draining the tank and a new cap might have done the trick. I dunno. I do know the old glass fitler was stopped up and the new one helped. So there is that. I had gotten a new #1 inj line from Stamm's last week and installed it. This week, the fuel return line from the pump to the tank had worn through and began leaking. As soon as I buy this thing, everything starts leaking. HA! So the local hose shop is making me another line with new connectors, since the one that attached the line to the pump was cracked as well.

Ran it for awhile and there appeared to be oil leaking out from the very front exhaust bolt? I tightened that up and it stopped it. I just thought it odd oil(?) was coming that high up in the system. The tractor also smokes a lot, and I am sure this is a sign of something. And one of you guys will say its "whatever the expensive thing is I need to do to fix it" :) I know it needs an oil change too, black as soot.
 

I?d either check compression on each cylinder, and/or fire it up cold and then check the temperature on each exhaust manifold branch as it heats up.

That will tell you if there is a problem with one cylinder over the others. It may be on the one that is leaking diesel/oil that it has a weak valve or worn rings.

Have you set the valves? I?m not sure how often a person would need to do it on a diesel tractor engine, but on our natural gas irrigation engines that run 24x7 during season, I?d set them every few weeks or a couple times per season.

Howard
 
(quoted from post at 18:55:14 07/22/18)
Where is the leak on the line? If it is not right on the end, it might be pretty simple to repair. I've brazed up several lines on my old JD 4840 over the years. The main trick is just clean it up good and support it very well all up and down the line for the actual braze, so it doesn't bend or kink while hot.



Howard

Right slap in the middle. This return line is no issue to get re-made. But from what I see, the injector lines are darn near impossible to get made.
 

So my mechanical prowess is not high. I have never set valves….I was gonna pull those valve covers off and take a looksie, but I dont know what to do after that. I do have the old I&T manual in hand…so there is that. I can feel the exhaust manifold….that is in my wheelhouse. HAHAHAHAHA.
 

And on another note…I bought some fenders that didnt fit…..had a guy that wants to trade me my "U" fenders that dont fit, for a decent set of GVI fenders…. So Lady Luck has shined down upon me. And my rear tubes are coming this week, so I hope to get the 18.4's on there this week too. This thing may come together pretty soon!
 
(quoted from post at 19:05:27 07/31/18)
So my mechanical prowess is not high. I have never set valves….I was gonna pull those valve covers off and take a looksie, but I dont know what to do after that. I do have the old I&T manual in hand…so there is that. I can feel the exhaust manifold….that is in my wheelhouse. HAHAHAHAHA.

Its not that hard to set them. Essentially, you turn the motor over a bit at a time and rotate the crank so a rocker arm is lifted off a valve - and then adjust the set screw until the rocker arm is the proper setting (using a feeler gauge) to the proper thousandths off the valve stem. Rotate the engine some more to get the next valve, etc, until you've gone done the whole engine.

The manual will tell you the settings.

We used to set our natural gas MMs that run 24x7 every few weeks. You could do one in your sleep after that many times... ha The local long time MM mechanic that I respected so much said if you just back the set screw off about 1/4 turn you'd be just about right on. That's been long enough now, I don't remember if that was for both exhausts & intakes or not. Anyway, after you've done it a couple of times, it is very easy.

All it takes is a screwdriver and box end wrench.

I looked around for an already written up tutorial on setting MM valves, but was surprised to not really find much.

And I've got a cheap thermometer gun that works wonders for easily & quickly telling you the exact temperature for every specific spot. It wasn't that expensive.


Howard
 


Its been raining here for several days. I cleaned the breathers out, and remembered seeing a set all polished up at Keystone Tractor Museum on a Massey 97. Thought I would mess around and see how it would turn out with some elbow grease and a polishing wheel on my bench grinder. Not bad for 30 mins work.
 

Once you mentioned it, I searched on line…not much on YT or Youtube either. It sounds like something I could tackle. Especially since I have the manual. I do read well :) despite being from N.C. Im gonna pull those covers and give it a looksie when it stops raining and I can piddle with it. I got the tires and rims to the tire shop for new tubes. I really want to get those tires mounted this weekend, except for actually having to manhandle them on the tractor. Ugh. (Ive taken those bent up fenders off already)
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What does the bolt do that is missing above the freeze plug on the front head? What is an "energy cell" and does it require any maintenance? Ive been reading my manual…..so more questions will be posted. :)

Thanks!
 
The bolt is not critical. It's used to mount brackets on some models. The energy cells are part of the diesel combustion process in the Lanova diesel injection system used by MM. They're located behind the 2 large hex caps on either side of the bolt you asked about. Fuel is injected into the energy cell where the combustion process starts.
 
(quoted from post at 13:35:35 08/06/18) The bolt is not critical. It's used to mount brackets on some models. The energy cells are part of the diesel combustion process in the Lanova diesel injection system used by MM. They're located behind the 2 large hex caps on either side of the bolt you asked about. Fuel is injected into the energy cell where the combustion process starts.

Thanks for the reply! I wont sweat the bolt. I guess there isnt anything to do to the energy cell then.

I swear, this is the easiest starting diesel I have ever cranked. I wish it didnt smoke like it did, but 6K hours, I guess that might be expected.
 
I also pull a 560W and a Gvi. Both are a little nose heavy, but work great with a heavy sled and a normal chain length.
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