600 Ford Rear Mail won't seal

Mtinal

New User
I have a 600 1956 Ford. Posting in 9n 2n 8n because it is about the closest form I can find. I did an engine rebuild due the rear main seal leaking. I tried to put in the rope seal in the front and the rubber in the rear. I ended up pulling the rope out due to it leaking and the rubber seal does well until I rev up the engine and it warms up.

So my question is. do you need the rope seal if you run the rubber? I used the seals that came with the engine kit. I notice they also sell a standalone kit that looks different. Is it worth spending the extra and money?

If I need the rope seal and the rubber. What is the best method to get it pushed in. I would guess it should sit no higher in the journal than the rubber seal?
 

That front groove is for the flinger on the crank shaft, Do you have a sheet metal flinger that went down into that front groove? We need more info in order to help. The only possible rubber seal that I know of is the two piece neoprene lip seal. Is this what you used? The next thing is what did you use for the seals on each side of the bearing cap? The rubber ones that are supposed to take the thin steel pins are rally difficult to use. Victor Reinze RTV silicone works much better.
 
(quoted from post at 10:38:53 02/19/18)
That front groove is for the flinger on the crank shaft, Do you have a sheet metal flinger that went down into that front groove? We need more info in order to help. The only possible rubber seal that I know of is the two piece neoprene lip seal. Is this what you used? The next thing is what did you use for the seals on each side of the bearing cap? The rubber ones that are supposed to take the thin steel pins are rally difficult to use. Victor Reinze RTV silicone works much better.

When I removed the rear main it ran a rope seal in the front groove and a neoprene in the rear. That's what I tried to go with but ended up having to remove the rope seal. On the sides I have the green dip in oil and slide them in seals. I remove the rear main once to remove the rope and these vertical seals were dry.
 
Here is what a old Timer told me to do on Ns. I cut seal proud, dap bitter
ends with silicon. Here's the kicker -----offset the ropes seams from
the block and pan seams just a bit. I have NEVER done a 600 only Ns.
Soak or put rope in dry its your call.
 
"When I removed the rear main it ran a rope seal in the front groove and a neoprene in the rear. That's what I tried to go with but ended up having to remove the rope seal. On the sides I have the green dip in oil and slide them in seals. I remove the rear main once to remove the rope and these vertical seals were dry."

Sounds like you got affected by the copy-what-the-previous-owner-did syndrome.

There is usually only one rear seal, either wick (rope) or neoprene . . . your choice.

Sounds like someone stuffed the wick seal into the oil slinger groove so the spinning crank wasn't able to throw the excess oil back and so the neoprene seal was swamped with oil and leaked.

So then you took out the wick seal that shouldn't have been there in the first place and then the rear main neoprene seal still leaked but only at high RPM.

So . . . my guess is that the neoprene seal needs replacing or else if it is new already, then the ends where the top half of the upgraded neoprene seal meets the lower half at the block face, weren't properly sealed; i.,e., it is probably leaking at the joints.

HTH
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:11 02/19/18) Here is what a old Timer told me to do on Ns. I cut seal proud, dap bitter
ends with silicon. Here's the kicker -----offset the ropes seams from
the block and pan seams just a bit. I have NEVER done a 600 only Ns.
Soak or put rope in dry its your call.

It is too long to go into a rope seal here but anyway there is waaaaay more to it than that. they have to be done correctly.
 
You wrote:
"On the sides I have the green dip in oil" . . . wedge seals

I can't remember what I did the last time, but I wouldn't dip them in oil to install them . . . and I'd leave the ends bone dry for whatever . . . like like a light coating of Permatex #2

I wouldn't be surprised if on my old Chev outside, that I brushed Permatex 2 the full length of those guys to install them
and lightly permatex'd the steel grooves probably too.

but whenever you have sealing hopes for any joints
first prep the mating faces so clean with lacquer thinner, that a white towel will barely show a trace.

White cue tips and lacquer thinner, Batman!

Overkill on everything is my motto. :D
 
P.S.

Must add a "don't quote me on that" qualifier.

If wooden wedge seals are coated with Permatex
the engine oil can't penetrate them to swell them up.

So I'll go check my books
But if the wedges are a nice press fit . . . can't remember
I plead old age :)

Each situation is a little different, materials etc.
and then there's your manual's recommendation.

As I said, my 235 that I rebuilt in 1975 has a rear wick seal
and to this day I don't get oil drips from the flywheel inspection cover.
I just got it running again after 18 years. :D

Ya know, that may be a plus for the wick seal if it's done right
they'll never get stiff over time like a neoprene seal can.

Fourty years I sold my friend who owned the Esso Station a 10 or 15W40 100% synthetic oil change ($9.00 a liter) for his 350 GM truck engine.

A while later he says to me in passing, "What can you tell me about leaking timing cover seals?" So I'm thinking, oh no, the synthetic has caused a leak. When you sell the stuff you keep getting put on the defensive. :)
He lets me squirm for a sec thinking about having maybe cleaned out his engine too much, then he says, "I'm just pulling your chain; I had a timing cover leak before you did the synthetic conversion and the leak has stopped."

The neoprene seal was weeping because it had grown stiffer
The Diester synthetic limbered up the seal, softened it,
for a truer ride on the crankshaft.
 
Victor Reinze RTV silicone works much better.

Showcrop, I've read loads of posts referring to the Victor Reinz solution for rear main bearing cap side seals but no reference to part number. While further researching this, I found that Victor Reinz makes several varieties of sealer. [i:47c581ad28][b:47c581ad28]Reinoplast, Reinzosil, and Bead N Seal Aluminum Silicone Sealant[/b:47c581ad28][/i:47c581ad28] to name a few. Can you provide any insight as to the correct application?

mvphoto11043.jpg
mvphoto11044.jpg
 
Mtinal,

About those side seals . . .
I don't think that my oil swelling theory is relative here
because those side seals are manufactured to the correct size.

They can be synthetic rubber, cork, fibre composition or wood blocks.

So I'd go dry with judicious use of Pematex #2/

I'm outta here . . . finally :)
 
(quoted from post at 03:06:16 02/20/18)
Victor Reinze RTV silicone works much better.

Showcrop, I've read loads of posts referring to the Victor Reinz solution for rear main bearing cap side seals but no reference to part number. While further researching this, I found that Victor Reinz makes several varieties of sealer. [i:5f101252ba][b:5f101252ba]Reinoplast, Reinzosil, and Bead N Seal Aluminum Silicone Sealant[/b:5f101252ba][/i:5f101252ba] to name a few. Can you provide any insight as to the correct application?

mvphoto11043.jpg
mvphoto11044.jpg

The Bead'n seal Aluminum silicone is the one that you want.
 

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