8n generator

I have a 51 8n still on 6 volt. I really don't want to change it to 12. I think its not charging enough to keep the battery up. It starts really easy and will start for 3 or 4 times before you have to put the charger on it. The amp meter hardly moves while running. I don't know if its the gen or reg. Its a 2 post gen and I have a multi meter, can I check it at the generator?
 
I got tired of fighting the same problems and when the batteries went bad, I changed both of mine to 12 volts and never been sorry.
 
Take the generator and VER to a local auto electric repair shop and have them checked and repaired if necessary.
 
"can I check it at the generator?"

If you have a reasonable quality analog voltmeter, yes.
You can also check the voltage across he battery terminals before
starting and then shortly after starting at higher RPM to see if the
voltage is going up, indicating charge.
 
Do the lights work?

If so, with the engine operating at low RPM, turn the lights on and watch the ammeter. Expect it to show discharge.

Increase engine RPM. If the ammeter does not move to 0 or above, something is wrong

A common cause is too much oil in the oil cup over the years resulting in oil on the commutator.

Dean
 
A '51 8N would indicate an angle-mount distributor thus the generator was moved to the LH side of engine. Before we begin, I need to ask you if the generator is original with the correct belt tensioning device connected? I often see generators not charging simply because there is no belt tensioner on to keep the belt tight so it charges correctly as the part/device is missing altogether. Problem: battery not charging. Let's start with the battery. How old and what type? It should be a good GP-1 type, 6V AG style, not a deep cycle or RV/golf cart type and at least 550-650 CCA. It must sustain a full charge under load, specific gravity can be checked with a cheap hydrometer or just take it to your local starter shop or auto parts store, and they will bench test it on their special test equipment. Avoid bargain house batteries as well. They have short life spans, like 2 years average or less, and can be junk out the door. Invest in a good brand like INTERSTATE, DEKA, or EXIDE. Good brands often last at least 5 years, some double that. Now, a 6-volt battery installed does indicate that everything else is right. If it is not wired correctly you will have non-starting/non-charging/non-running issues. Your ammeter may or may not be faulty. I suggest you take your battery, the generator, and the ammeter to your trusty local starter/alternator shop guy who knows old Ford stuff and get them tested. He can also test your VR, starter, key switch and coil, but no need to jump ahead just yet. The VR could be included in the first group, but starter, coil, and key switch are moot since you say it runs now albeit poorly, and they are not part of the charging system. While shop is testing the components, get out your copy of WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR and go thru the wiring exactly to match your tractor setup. Don't guess, don't go by wire harness colors -verify with a continuity tester or a multi-meter set to continuity. Don't take shortcuts from how it is supposed to be wired nor skip steps. If the wiring is a cobbled up rats nest, with electrical tape splices all over, trash it and invest in a new harness. The problem is the generator isn't charging the battery. Now you must determine the root cause and which part of the equation needs to be solved. When you get to the root cause and problem solved, many here use a Battery Tender, see Bruce(VA)'s '75 Tips For N-Owners', to maintain their batteries with a full charge when not in use. We will discuss the virtues once you get back running...

Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 06:55:02 05/28/18) A '51 8N would indicate an angle-mount distributor thus the generator was moved to the LH side of engine. Before we begin, I need to ask you if the generator is original with the correct belt tensioning device connected? I often see generators not charging simply because there is no belt tensioner on to keep the belt tight so it charges correctly as the part/device is missing altogether. Problem: battery not charging. Let's start with the battery. How old and what type? It should be a good GP-1 type, 6V AG style, not a deep cycle or RV/golf cart type and at least 550-650 CCA. It must sustain a full charge under load, specific gravity can be checked with a cheap hydrometer or just take it to your local starter shop or auto parts store, and they will bench test it on their special test equipment. Avoid bargain house batteries as well. They have short life spans, like 2 years average or less, and can be junk out the door. Invest in a good brand like INTERSTATE, DEKA, or EXIDE. Good brands often last at least 5 years, some double that. Now, a 6-volt battery installed does indicate that everything else is right. If it is not wired correctly you will have non-starting/non-charging/non-running issues. Your ammeter may or may not be faulty. I suggest you take your battery, the generator, and the ammeter to your trusty local starter/alternator shop guy who knows old Ford stuff and get them tested. He can also test your VR, starter, key switch and coil, but no need to jump ahead just yet. The VR could be included in the first group, but starter, coil, and key switch are moot since you say it runs now albeit poorly, and they are not part of the charging system. While shop is testing the components, get out your copy of WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR and go thru the wiring exactly to match your tractor setup. Don't guess, don't go by wire harness colors -verify with a continuity tester or a multi-meter set to continuity. Don't take shortcuts from how it is supposed to be wired nor skip steps. If the wiring is a cobbled up rats nest, with electrical tape splices all over, trash it and invest in a new harness. The problem is the generator isn't charging the battery. Now you must determine the root cause and which part of the equation needs to be solved. When you get to the root cause and problem solved, many here use a Battery Tender, see Bruce(VA)'s '75 Tips For N-Owners', to maintain their batteries with a full charge when not in use. We will discuss the virtues once you get back running...

Tim Daley(MI)
Went out this morning and the tractor busted right off. Yesterday I hade taken the battery out and cleaned the posts and cables, put it back and put my 3 amp 6 volt charger on it overnight. While I had it out I noticed all my wiring was in pretty bad shape (broken insulation with exposed wire turning green). It also has aftermarket lightweight very cheap cables. I will replace this stuff and see if it helps. Once the battery is charged it holds a charge.
 

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