2N- 3 brush gen.

SDE

Well-known Member
I bought this 2n about three weeks ago. I put a six volt battery in it, changed the oil and bypassed the gas tank. We pull started it and when I checked the voltage at the battery, it was 9.6 to 10 volts. I bought a new 6 volt battery and put it in today and rolled it down a hill to start it. With the new battery I was getting 12 to 13 volts. I tried to adjust the third brush, but the lowest I could get was 10 to 11 volts. My cheap digital volt meter was jumping around quite a bit. When I turned it all the way the other direction, I saw 16 to 18 volts. Is it possible that it could be a 12 volt generator? Will this generator end up blowing up my battery?
I bought this tractor to put the wheels and tires and generator on my 9N. I would like to have it all figured out before I remove the parts that I need for the 9n.
TY
SDE
a273498.jpg
 
"Is it possible that it could be a 12 volt generator?"

Possible, yes. More likely just that you're using a digital meter.
They do not measure accurately with all the electrical noise.
Use a good quality analog meter.
 
I will have to do some digging, but I may be able to find an analog meter in the garage. I know I have one. It may not be a High Quality meter though.
TY
SDE
 
No, not a 12V generator. That is the original FORD 2N-10000 generator, complete with the belt adjustment device. SPECS are: 6V/POS GRN,1-Wire/3-Brush, A Circuit design,11.5 AMP output and cutout voltage set between 7 and 8.5 volts. Do you have the roundcan cutout in the circuit? Not the problem but have you polarized the generator via the cutout? Polarizing must be done using the power source that will be used in the system. No way is a 6V battery giving you 12 to 13 Volt readings. Are you certain the battery is 6 Volts? How many cells are on top? Like Royse said, a digital Multi-Meter will be goofy if used active. With a digital meter you can check battery voltage static though. What does the AMMETER read when running/charging? Leave the 3rd Brush set to lowest setting and don't mess with it. Is the entire wiring system correct including the OEM Ballast Resistor? Start troubleshooting by disconnecting any lights from the circuit. Just curious. Why did you and how did you "...bypass the gas tank.."?

9N/2N ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM:
QWaC1aah.jpg
9N/2N ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC:
iP09xMVh.jpg

9N/2N ORIGINAL CUTOUT CIRCUIT:
U2VXum1h.jpg


Tim Daley(MI)
 
The battery has three cells. I have the third brush adjusted to the lowest setting. Maybe my attempt to polarize it was incorrect after I switched the battery. I will re check the proper polarization contacts.. The ignition switch is a household light switch, left laying ac-crossed the dash. The cutout is so dirty that it is difficult to see the wires and where they go. The Oliver amp gauge does not move,when I look at it. I have not looked under the hood to see if any of the wiring is still correct. I am assuming that it was running properly when parked. She really puts out the smoke and the safety switch appears to not be allowing me to use the starter to get her running. I did use a jumper cable from the battery to the stater stud to restart her though. I did find my analog volt meter and I will re check the voltage with that one. The gas tank smells like turpentine. The sediment bowl is very dark and if I removed it, I doubt I would be able to get it to not leak. The steel fuel line had a rubber line about three inches long and about three inches above the carb.. I slipped the rubber line off and I am using a radiator over flow tank strapped to the side of the hood. I have put some gas in the tank and I hope to use the tractor a little more before I drain the tank to see how dirty it may have been inside it. I did put a back blade on her and pulled some dirt out of one shed. After about 5 minutes you can't see thru the smoke. Which with the safety switch problem, may be why someone gave up on her.
TY
SDE
 
You see what's happening here don't you? You're answering your own questions. WIRING is all cobbled up amongst other issues. You say: [I will re check the proper polarization contacts.. The ignition switch is a household light switch, left laying ac-crossed the dash. The cutout is so dirty that it is difficult to see the wires and where they go. The Oliver amp gauge does not move, when I look at it. I have not looked under the hood to see if any of the wiring is still correct. I am assuming that it was running properly when parked.]
Dirty cutout ?clean it. Take a spray bottle and fill with mineral spirits, plain charcoal lighter fluid will work, it?s the same stuff, and spray down all the dirt, then blow off with air gun. You polarize the generator by arc sparking the cutout ARM terminal to the BAT terminal. POWER OFF. SEE HERE -

ORIGINAL FORD TRACTOR 9N-10505-B CUTOUT:
U2VXum1h.jpg

Never assume anything ???I assume it was running properly when parked?? Really? If it runs like crap now if at all, how can you even assume that? Forget what the PO did. It is a perfect example of a hack-job. A household light switch? Really??? Do you mean a simple electrical toggle switch or a real house-type 110v wall light switch? If the latter, that should have set off a red flag immediately.
STOP running the tractor ?NOW! You want it running and running correctly, right? A radiator overflow tank on the side of the hood? What is that for? The safety switch not allowing me to use the starter. Further clarification needed here. The starter motor uses no solenoid if that is what you mean. The starter has only 1-Wire to it ?see schematics from previous post. The neutral Safety Starter Switch is the manual push button located on the top shifter cover at the bottom of dash. Early 9Ns had it mounted on the dash. It is not the same as a starter solenoid. ALL 9N and 2N starters never had a solenoid. That was a new feature on the 8N model. Also, forget about removing the Fuel Sediment Bulb Assembly ?at least for now. While you are waiting for the new parts to arrive* you can perform the basic fuel flow tests ?you don?t test with any power anyway. You can clean sediment bulb old gas by removing glass bowl, and clean the one screen and only if fuel flow test fails will sediment bulb need to be removed. Note a plugged gas tank vent hole and cause poor fuel flow -do it with gas cap on and off. The black smoke could be due to one or more issues. Carb is in dire need of a rebuild, old dirty gas, or worse case scenario, engine is need of a rebuild. Black smoke out the exhaust is an indicator burning oil. A rubber patch on the fuel line? Get rid of it and invest in the correct steel fuel line. *Based on what you have said, it is OK now to invest some new parts. First, a good correct wiring harness. A new correct steel fuel line. A new AMMETER. A new correct key switch. You still may need a new cutout too. You have a lot of work to do, and as I advised, stop running tractor until you fix the problems. You can do it, baby steps, just do it right the first time. Don?t follow what the PO has mucked up so far. You don?t want to do any further damage nor risk safety just to ?run the back blade a little more?.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
The exhaust smoke is more of a blueish color. I thought that the piston rings may have needed to be loosen up by working the engine. I had to add a little coolant to get the level above the fins. I do not see the level changing. So hopefully I am not burning coolant.
If there isn't a neutral safety switch on the tractor, then I must need a new push button starter switch.
Yes, the ignition switch is a 110 volt light switch.
TY
SDE
 
The Safety Neutral Starter Switching Button is so named so that the tractor has to be in neutral gear in order to start. The early 9N's did not have this, prior to s/n 12500. The starting switch button was mounted on the LH Dash Panel -see picture -then moved to the top of the shifter cover when the safety feature was added. the part is technically 9N-11506 but sold today as the 11450 part -confusing for all. This part is also many times confused as being a solenoid -IT'S NOT a starter solenoid, and once again, the starting motor, located on the LH side of engine by the toolbox does NOT use a solenoid. The safety neutral switch was relocated to the top of shifter cover at s/n 12500 -by the gear shift lever. If you were burning water like if the head or block was cracked, you'd be seeing white smoke. What color is oil on dipstick? If losing coolant, it'd be overheating. It sounds a lot like you have a worn engine on top of all the cobbled wiring issues. Do you have the manuals?

FORD TRACTOR ORIGINAL 9N-11506 STARTING SWITCH BUTTON, pre s/n 9N-12500, dash mounted:
hXOHU4ph.jpg

FORD TRACTOR ORIGINAL 9N-11450 STARTING SWITCH ?REAR DASH MOUNTED:
qQKSbwph.jpg

FORD TRACTOR ORIGINAL 9N-11506-A STARTING SWITCH ?LH DASH MOUNTED, PRIOR TO S/N 12500:
E7DH0oxh.jpg


Tim Daley(MI)
 
I started the 2n yesterday. I put the old analog meter on the battery and it read 6.2. I used a jumper wire across the two terminals on the cutout, but I did not get the tell tale electrical arc. My attempt to polarize it had failed, because I was not getting it to charge.
This morning I am going to drain a little oil out of the pan. I do not know how long this tractor had set in the weeds, but the oil did not look very good on the dip stick yesterday.
I will be looking for the original starter button for my LH dash mounted 9N starter button. I think old-9 had said that he had one, but I was hoping to find a new one. Thank you for giving me the proper part number for my application. After all, the one I got from Steiners wasn't the correct one.
TY
SDE
 

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