Cracked Block

Ken185

New User
I have a 1950? 8N and noticed a small crack in the engine block. The crack is on the top right corner of the block if you are looking at the engine from the manifold side. The crack is about 3/4" down from where the head meets the block and appears to be about 1" long. It runs horizontal from the area of the exhaust manifold towards the front of the engine. There is a small amount of antifreeze that seeps from this crack. Can this be fixed? If it can be fixed, how do I go about making that repair. I have also noticed a lock of power when the tractor is under heavy load running my mowing deck in tall grass. As soon as I disengage the deck the tractor runs fine. Could this crack cause the loss of power too?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Ken
 
are you getting coolant in the oil?

is it in the exhaust port?

if no and no.. I might try brazing first.. or as a last resort, stitching with pipe plugs then grinding flat.

soundguy
 
Ken if the leak is just a external leak it should have no effect on loss of power.But if its leaking inside your cylinder it will cause power loss.If its leaking into the crankcase it will play havoc with your rod and main bearings,oil pump ect.Your crack sounds like a good candidate for LOCK and STITCH.
LOCK and STITCH

crack repair
 
Ken......that corner crack is the result of HYDRAULIC pressure from a previous head gasket replacement that did NOT CLEAN with Q-Tips the spilled radiator water in the bottom of the BLIND headbolt hole.

Now you have other leak problems. This is sumptin "heli-coils" and the like will NOT FIX. While you can "braze" castiron, you can NOT WELD castiron without a heating oven and 24-hr cool down.

Me? I'd "Vee" the crack alittle bitt, (NOT into water jacket) drill end-stop crack with 1/8"-hole and use some hi-temp epoxy (go shopping) and back the epoxy with fine-grain sandpaper and block of wood. Let "cure" 24-hrs. Clearance tap clean the block hole and you should be good to go with NEW headgasket and 50-50 anti-freeze. Simple, eh? .......Dell
 
The lock and stitch method looks pretty ingenious.Didn't catch on until I read further and found where they overlap the plugs until it's solid added material.Cast can be welded UNDER the correct conditions,but it ain't easy.The urge to hurry up and finish gets most people,and I don't think a block,because of the sheer bulk and vibrations heating and cooling cycles,etc is a good place to try.---lha
 
Iha,Lock and stitch is a permanent quality repair for cracked castings.I have repaired cracked Ford N blocks by brazing them in the past but its a long process. I have also repaired cracked Cummins blocks several times using Lock and Stitch with excellent results.Not like pucky that Dell suggests that will leak over time and have little or no structural strength and chances are will have to be redone every year or so with use.Welding a engine block without hours of preheat and at least 24 hours very slow cool down will result in more cracks next to the weld.It will also make the cast iron very brittle and hard as tool steel making it prone to cracking again and hard to repair by other methods.Check out the link about welding and the use of Lock and Stich
Welding Cast

RepairExamples.
 
I think as common as the N series is worldwide, I'd go looking for another block. Cracked cast iron can be welded, there's a place in Nevada Ia that specializes in that, but if it were mine, I'd rather start with a non cracked block to repair it.
 
I"m ready to apply the Lock n Stitch to the cracked rear end housing on my New Holland.
The crack is about 8 inches long and the parts required, (bolts, tap, drill bits, etc) ran me about 300.00 and came with a great video. The good folks at Lock n Stitch in Turlock CA (209) 632-2345 will give you all the time you need with questions. Ask for Rob or Alla.
Great service, great people.
 
Chuck,Hope that you have as good of repair as I have had using them.Let us know how it turns out when you get it completed.
 
Cronatron sells a rod for cast welding.I was brazing on the bottom of a stove casting. Got trouble with underbead cracking so I switch to cronatron rod and finished the job.38 bucks a pound.I had just a few rods given me by a friend who worked in a machine shop where they welded cast electric motor end bells with no pre heat.
 

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