Mkuhns, double disk clutch?

oliverkid

Member
Hey, been looking in to the double disk clutch for my 150. Had a few more guys tell me that's the best rout to go. All I need is the clutch pack, pressure plate and the shorter pilot tube for the throw out bearing to ride on correct? Don't have to change the throwout fork or anyone else? Can the single disk pilot tube just be cut off to length or do I need to find one out of a 180? I called Maibachs today and one of their service guys told me that the double disk pressure plate only used six bolts, do those bolts land on the right bolt pattern to use the existing holes?
 
Did this to my 2255 and as I remember everything just bolted in place. But, I didn't use all OEM parts, I brought the flywheel and clutch to a rebuilder and they put everything together. The flywheel was turned with a new step cut and all the guts were AGCO parts except for the discs. I wanted a tough smooth clutch with a soft pedal and they came through for me. They even figured the slider tube and high quality bearing assy.

Do a little research, I put a new clutch in my 1950 by just buying something that sounded good with a good price. It ended up just being an on/off switch with wheel standing engagement. There was no soft start on this rig. I have basically parked a good running tractor.

Good luck!
 
The flywheel has both bolt patterns. You will be going from a single 14" to a double 13" when doing this. You will need a release bearing holder for a 2-180 /4-210 / 4-225 or any other model that used this clutch. Pretty much a factory deal. I know some guys have had the original release bearing machined down to match the shorter one. I have no idea what the dimensions are. I know it is pretty close to the same as in an 1855 or any other with the Waukesha in of that series. We put the double disc in our 2-150 and 2255. Worked out well except it may take a little longer for the transmission to slow down and get into gear. We got our clutch from A&I when we did ours.
 
Just to clarify that we are talking about the same thing, by release bearing holder do you mean the tube in the bell housing the throwout bearing slides on, or the actual throw out bearing assembly itself?
 
Just the release bearing holder that slides on that tube on the over/under needs replaced. I just recalled you may have to take a pipe cutter and shorten that tube also. I don't recall needing to. Test fit the over/under onto the engine with the inspection cover off and make sure the rear disc has enough room to slide.
 
Ok, thank you for the information. One last question. If I'm upgrading the main clutch, should I start looking for a heavy duty over under from a 4-210 ect. Or will the regular o/u hold up fine. I've never really heard that they were a problem in the 150's, I just don't want to find out that's the next weakest link.
 
Good luck finding an HD over/under reasonably priced. Can't remember how much clearance is below the over/under now, but the case is about 2" lower/deeper. I put a 1750 over under in my 2-180 I got in pieces. That has held up OK. Couldn't find anything else at the time. Our 4-150 over/under held up pretty well. We were farming around 400 acres for about 10 years with no issues pulling an 11 shank chisel and 28 foot disc. It is in need of a rebuild now though. I wouldn't shift any more than needed under load to prolong its life.
 
As long as the clutches weren't slipping, it shifts good and hard, doesn't leak any oil to speak of and the oil stays clean, and all the circut pressures are good. When I changed the oil and filter there weren't any floaters that came out and the old filter looked decent. I'm pretty confident in it, I just wasn't sure. Thanks for the help.
 

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