Cockshutt 30 trouble starting

Brutus45

Member
Hello, looking for some help please. I have a 1948 cockshutt 30 that was running last year, now having issues and don't know what else to try. I was not getting spark and replaced the condenser, now I have spark. It will turn over and pop but will not run. I was working on setting timing on the distributor but this should not keep it from starting and I am getting spark. Not sure what else to try. Would a weak battery cause the tractor to not start? Thanks!
 
You can set the static timing per the mark on the flywheel close enough to make it run. Do you have good spark at the plugs? Weak spark can
cause it to run poorly or fail to start. Be sure to check the points and coil as well.

Are you getting fuel to, and through, the carburetor? Pull the line or remove the bowl drain to be sure, or try adding supplemental fuel for a
quick test.

If the battery is strong enough to crank the engine, it?s strong enough to run the ignition system.
 
My first thought was: Was the condenser actually faulty? If it wasn?t, the original reason for non-starting has not yet been found.
 
(quoted from post at 10:55:12 09/20/18) My first thought was: Was the condenser actually faulty? If it wasn?t, the original reason for non-starting has not yet been found.

Yes, I would say the condenser was faulty because prior to replacing I would get an intermittent spark, now I get a consistent spark. Thanks for the comments
 

Thanks for the comment. On the timing the book calls for the rotor point to be adjacent to the #1 wire plug, I think I have that but the book is hard to follow. I am getting spark though weak vs. strong? How do you tell. I did pull one plug and was getting spark there as well. The points are almost brand new and coil is getting voltage (any other way to check this)? I assume if getting spark the coil is good.

I cleaned the carb and certain I am getting fuel as the plugs to get wet. Even with starting fluid it will pop once or twice but not run.. very frustrating.
 

When you line up the distributor rotor with the flywheel on TDC, you must also have #1 cyl. at the top of the compression stroke, either check to see if the exhaust valve is just closing and the intake is starting to open on @4 cyl. or with #1 plug out you can feel compression on #1 while turning the engine to the TDC mark. Dist. could be 180 degrees out of time.
 
(quoted from post at 15:09:55 09/20/18)
When you line up the distributor rotor with the flywheel on TDC, you must also have #1 cyl. at the top of the compression stroke, either check to see if the exhaust valve is just closing and the intake is starting to open on @4 cyl. or with #1 plug out you can feel compression on #1 while turning the engine to the TDC mark. Dist. could be 180 degrees out of time.

Thank you. Would it be possible for someone with a cockshutt 30 to take a photo of their distributor with Removed and the fly wheel at the static spark position? Would be a great help I bought new spark plugs today and will try that as well
 
I could take a photo if necessary, but it?s late and I?m in the house. Let?s try a description.

Remove the pipe plug from the front of the rear engine mount plate on the same side as the carburetor. The timing mark is visible through this
hole, and is easier to see if you mark it with soapstone. Turn the engine over by hand with the #1 spark plug removed to make sure you?re on
the compression stroke, and center the mark in the hole.

Make sure the distributor shaft rotates as you?re turning the engine over, and check to see that there isn?t excessive lateral play in the bushings.
Also check the mechanical advance springs by turning the rotor clockwise with your fingers. It should turn a little, then return to its original
position when you let it go.

Now rotate the distributor housing until the points are just opening and the rotor points toward the #1 terminal on the cap. This will be close
enough to start. You can fine tune it with a timing light later.

The age of your breaker points isn?t as important as their condition. If they?re dirty or corroded performance will suffer. Your spark should be
blue, loud, and jump 3/4? through the atmosphere. Weak yellow spark that will only jump a short distance isn?t good enough.

Make sure your gas tank and its contents are clean, and I suggest using brake cleaner rather than starting fluid if you need supplemental fuel.

I wouldn?t condemn the distributor itself without first proving it's a problem.

You may also want to check whether your manifold has rusted out. External damage should be evident, but you could have a hole on the inside
between the intake and exhaust.

If you continue to have trouble, it would be a good idea to check the compression to make sure that isn?t an issue.
 
Ok, wanted to report back after all the help. I finally got is running! Last things I did before getting it to fire up. 1) replaced spark plugs 2) cleaned points (not sure this was really necessary but did it anyways. I still had trouble getting it going but it started popping and running badly until I started moving the distributor. I got it good enough that I used the timing light and everything is good now. I did notice the static spark line is jumping in the hole, so thinking the advance aprings may need replaced (play in the distributor). The only other thing I am not sure of is I can hold the ignition button down and it starts when I release it but will not run as I hold it down? Any thoughts on this?

Thanks Again!
 
the condenser grounding weakens over time...connection need
cleaned...replacing it increases the connection.
 
(quoted from post at 05:14:58 09/26/18) Check your spark and system voltage while cranking.

Sorry, what are the steps to do this? Could I have an ignition wire installed incorrectly that is drawing power as well?
 

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