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Buying a mig welder

L

Lanse

Well-known Member
Hey Yall...

Im looking to buy a mig welder for some small stuff around the farm, and i found this gem on craigslist...

What do you guys think of this machine?? Ive never heard of it, but i dont know much about welders...

The guy who is selling it says the panel is missing and it needs a new plug, the one that is on there is too big for the machine.

This kinda sucks, since the one that is on there looks just the same as my outlet...

What would i do about that??

Im good at fixing stuff up, but im totally clueless about anything electrical...

Is this a good machine, for anyone that has one??

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Just like any tool Get a good name brand. I would buy a used Miller or Lincoln. Those little things are not much good for anything. I have a millermatic 210. It is a 3/8 rated machine I wouldn't want anything smaller. I only use it for light material . I like to use stick for anything over 3/16. That is just because i would rather weld with a stick machine though.
 
OK, first it's not a "MIG" welder if it's not set up for gas. It's a "wire feed" welder. As for the value, if you don't pay more than 20 bucks you'll get your money's worth; otherwise I'd keep looking. Most of the cheap wire feed welder have a "hot" electrode, meaning the electrode isn't switched off when you release the trigger. That's a major aggravation after you get used to using a better welder with a switched electrode.

I'll repeat advice I've said before: if you don't already have an oxyacetylene torch rig, that should be your first purchase. Much more versatile than a wire-feed welder.
 
Run! First off it's not a mig welder, mig means "metal inert gas" ie. the weld shielding is provided by a flow of inert gas around the weld to prevent instant oxidation (sponge weld)
 
I have a portable arc generator welder. I also have a torch set. The torch is handy as MarkB says. Isuggest a torch set first then find a "GOOD" arc welder that will last and meet your needs. Just my two cents worth.
 
Clarke is a name used on cheap equipment sold by TSC. My guess is that you'll be very disappointed with this unit, even if repaired.
 
Clarke is going out of busineness.Mig welders have a lot of parts that can fail.Buy from a known company that will supply parts.Miller Hobart or Lincoln.I bought a used Miller,my friend bought a new Hobart.
 
Lanse, let me give you my qualifications first. I worked a job where we MIG welded frames for Ford Explorers, for almost 5 years. The company sent us to an intense 5-day class at welding school,and the equipment at the school was all either Miller or Esab...which is pretty good stuff. We used Miller welders exclusively in the plant. AFTER I left the plant, I took an adult ed course in welding so I could get some training in oxy-acetylene and stick [they only had one TIG machine and 12 students, so I didn't get to try TIG].

NOW...that Clarke welder will disappoint you. It's wire-feed, but not MIG as long as it doesn't have gas. So that means you'll have to buy spools of flux-core wire, which is considerably more expensive than the solid-core wire you use with MIG.

I know it's hard, but the best advice I can give you is to save your nickels and dimes, and buy a REAL MIG welder...and if it doesn't have the Hobart, Miller, Lincoln or ESAB brand on it, stay away from it. [To qualify that statement, I've heard that Daytona MIG makes a decent welder...but I've never had my hands on one of theirs, so I can't vouch for the quality.] Not saying you need a "Cadillac" brand just to weld with...but no sense buying a YUGO of a welder, either, that'll be letting you down when you need it most.

Whatever you get, pick up plenty of contact tips...they're called "consumables" for a reason!
 
(quoted from post at 22:29:33 03/28/10) Lanse, let me give you my qualifications first. I worked a job where we MIG welded frames for Ford Explorers, for almost 5 years. The company sent us to an intense 5-day class at welding school,and the equipment at the school was all either Miller or Esab...which is pretty good stuff. We used Miller welders exclusively in the plant. AFTER I left the plant, I took an adult ed course in welding so I could get some training in oxy-acetylene and stick [they only had one TIG machine and 12 students, so I didn't get to try TIG].

NOW...that Clarke welder will disappoint you. It's wire-feed, but not MIG as long as it doesn't have gas. So that means you'll have to buy spools of flux-core wire, which is considerably more expensive than the solid-core wire you use with MIG.

I know it's hard, but the best advice I can give you is to save your nickels and dimes, and buy a REAL MIG welder...and if it doesn't have the Hobart, Miller, Lincoln or ESAB brand on it, stay away from it. [To qualify that statement, I've heard that Daytona MIG makes a decent welder...but I've never had my hands on one of theirs, so I can't vouch for the quality.] Not saying you need a "Cadillac" brand just to weld with...but no sense buying a YUGO of a welder, either, that'll be letting you down when you need it most.

Whatever you get, pick up plenty of contact tips...they're called "consumables" for a reason!
Click to expand...
ep, even a good company like WW Grainger's Century brand is a POS if you have ever welded with a Lincoln or Miller.
 
I have a Clarke ES230. I converted it to gas right after I bought it.

As I've mentioned on this forum before, it gave me fits for the first several years with wire jams. Then I figured out the plastic liner in the gun was swelling with heat and binding the wire. I replaced the liner with a steel one from a Hobart welder and it's been flawless ever since.

I don't have strong feelings either way, but I probably would think twice before I bought another Clarke. Mainly because there seems to be no really organized parts source.

And it really burns me when all the "purists" out there automatically label as junk anything that isn't their own ultra high dollar stuff. I've gotten some really outstanding service out of some low priced equipment. The money I didn't waste is enjoying itself in the bank.
 
yep boat anchor is right. If the 12' boat sprung a leak, you couldn't weld the hole with that thing before it sank.

If that is a 110 volt wireless, then forget it. You will never get any penetration. It will melt the wire and daub it on the metal and get you a surface weld. If you are tacking thin sheet metal to something it will work. I wouldn't use it to weld a engine hoist unless I was ready to deal with a funeral.

A guy used one of those 110v wirefeeds to weld some angle iron brackets on my horse trailer to carry panels on the sides. I pulled on two and they came loose. He retacked them. However since I don't want to kill anybody on the highway, I'm not going to use them till I get a good welder or else take it to a welder who can do it right. Cut them off and start over.

I have a 110 crapsman wire feed made by century. I had this crazy idea that I could would weld 1/4" thick steel using multiple passes and flux core wire. I'm looking for a 220v ac/dc stick welder now for general welding.

My brother in law used to build truck grain beds. Tacked the pieces together and then welded away for hours with the mig and only stop when he wanted to.
 
Hi Lanse,

What it looks like to me is a junk machine that has been abused and now the guy who is selling it doesn't want you to be able to try it before you buy it. I notice that quite often on Craigslist a welder is advertised with the plug missing or the seller claims not to have the right outlet or 220 volt power if it is a 220 volt machine. I always take this to mean that the seller doesn't want the buyer to have a chance to try it before buying it.

I'm not an elitist about name brand equipment---I'm always on the lookout for something that's better than its cheap price would suggest. But to tell you the truth, I'd give a lot to have back some of the huge amount of time I've wasted struggling with crappy equipment, and missing the great pleasure of using good quality equipment. With welders there's just no comparison.

If somebody offered me that welder for free, I'd say no thanks, and count myself lucky to miss another big load of aggravation.

All the best, Stan
 
Like others have said, buy a brand name welder at a welding supply. Make sure the gun assembly has a quick connect where it attaches rather than being permanently installed. If you ever need it fixed or replaced, it's much easier. You're going to have spend at least $500 to get a decent 110 volt MIG machine. You also need a cylinder of shielding gas for it. The best part about a new machine is the warranty. Lincoln, Miller(Hobart) and I think Esab all have 3 years. It's nice to have an O/A torch to learn welding but for actually welding, it's very rarely used anymore. Dave
 
I went ahead and bought a new lincoln mig.after looking at alot of junk and well used stuff..Lincoln gives a 3 year guarantee on welders. Im glad i bought a new one,it was 380.00 and will weld up to 1/4" .My ac/dc lincoln stick welder gets the thicker stuff.
 
Clarke has a big plant in Arkansas south of Branson Mo. I have driven by it several times.
I have a Clarke mig 220 volt with the gas hook up that looks like the one in the picture. The only problem I have had was the wire sleeve came un fastened in the handle. I have not bought a bottle so I use the flux wire. It does anything I have ask it to do up to 3/8" thick. I have not ask it to weld thicker steel. I use my 300 amp Miller stick/TIG for the thicker steel using sticks.
Clarke's customer service people have been real helpful getting me the sleeve/tube, parts and how the easy way to instal it. It is a lower cost welder and I would have rather have a reastat control rather than switches but once you get the hang of it seems ok.
 
For Pete's sake, let the kid get the welder and play around with it. If nothing else, it will be a learning experience.

Unless, of course, one of you afficianados wants to buy an ultra high dollar welder and give it to him as a gift. Then maybe everyone would be happy.

I'm aware I've probably ruffled a few feathers on this forum from time to time, but I don't think anyone can accuse me of ever calling anyone's tools or equipment junk or crap.
 
Clark is out of buisness I was going to buy a clark band saw at tsc and they have a different brand now the fella said clark is gone.
 
Unfortunately some tools and equipment are junk. If I didn't have a lot of money to begin with and was looking at a potential piece of equipment that "seemed" cheaper in price, I'd sure appreciate someone more knowledgable telling me not to waste my money on it. I have bought things in the past that were a very poor decision as I'm sure most people have. Nothing wrong with giving a little wisdom based on experience. Dave
 
Two people that have and use the Clarke a welder have stated they are not the best but not all that bad and do a good job welding. Those two lack the wisdom and those that have a more expensive welder and never used a Clarke welder have the more wisdom?
I hope you cope well with the cast from breaking your arm patting your self on the back. :)^D
 
Pix of the welder say its been messed with.With no parts back up its worthless.I never sell a tool thats doing good work.I bought a used Miller 130 for 300 bucks.a leather jacket and small tools came with it,There was a big roll of stainless wireand 3 rools of 030 wire with it.Fellow had inherited it form his dad and had no use for it.I could have bought a new Century welder for the same money.The Miller was set up for gas.I picked up a small stick welder free at the dump,now called recycle center,There were some plastic wire connectors inside that had melted.Replaced those with some baklite connectors that had a brass insert and set screw. The trans former looked fine,no signs of overheat,The crank that adjusted amperage was missing so I made a new one.Put on a rod holder I had hanging up.Tried it out it did weld but it was hard to keep the arc going.Top output was 90 amp.Gave it to a friend who didnt have a welder.It works fine for his needs.I have 3 small welders my dad picked up over the years.They can make light welds but are worthless for most work.
 
(quoted from post at 18:47:01 03/29/10) For Pete's sake, let the kid get the welder and play around with it. If nothing else, it will be a learning experience.

Unless, of course, one of you afficianados wants to buy an ultra high dollar welder and give it to him as a gift. Then maybe everyone would be happy.

I'm aware I've probably ruffled a few feathers on this forum from time to time, but I don't think anyone can accuse me of ever calling anyone's tools or equipment junk or crap.
Click to expand...

If you don’t want to hear the answer, don’t ask the question! :wink:

And I quote Lanse “What do you guys think of this machine??”
 
If Lanse buys that welder he will tie up money that could have been used to buy a good welder.The pix show that the welder has been abused.If it needs a feed motor or drive system parts its worthless.
 
Actually, 36, it boils down to your above post being all that needed to be said.
 
Keep looking on Craigs list.Also you dont one that only uses flux core wire and you dont want one thats 115 unless its a dual voltage one made by HTP,Hobart,Lincoln or Miller.Or even other brands that are still in business.
If you had that thing and it could weld,it would probably not weld good enough to weld much of anything.Plus its hard to weld with a 115 volt welder.You would need to be an experienced welder to weld something with it that would hold and even then it would be hard to do.
115 volt welders will work,but with wire and gas much better than that flux core.Also even with wire and gas you have to grind where you want to weld clean or 115 volt welders just dont work right.On clean metal they can make a passable weld,but I dont know about that welder.It looks to be in bad shape already.
 
Keep looking on Craigs list.Also you dont one that only uses flux core wire and you dont want one thats 115 unless its a dual voltage one made by HTP,Hobart,Lincoln or Miller.Or even other brands that are still in business.
If you had that thing and it could weld,it would probably not weld good enough to weld much of anything.Plus its hard to weld with a 115 volt welder.You would need to be an experienced welder to weld something with it that would hold and even then it would be hard to do.
115 volt welders will work,but with wire and gas much better than that flux core.Also even with wire and gas you have to grind where you want to weld clean or 115 volt welders just dont work right.On clean metal they can make a passable weld,but I dont know about that welder.It looks to be in bad shape already.
 
Maybe if the machine was brand new it MIGHT be worth considering but there have been a lot of cheap welders come on the market that once they develop a problem, you can't get them fixed. Major brands have parts back up and will for a long time. The Clarke machine in the picture looks rough to begin with. It only has 3 voltage settings for one thing. The gun isn't a quick attach which means if you have to fix it, you have to cut it off and make it shorter or try to find a replacement. It probably uses a nylon liner that's not only harder to find but not easily replaced and will wear out faster. Where can you buy new drive rolls and inlet guides, etc.? The cover that keeps dirt out of the wire feed assembly is missing. There isn't a spool of wire on it and it has the wrong plug so it can't even be tried out. Why would it have the wrong plug? Maybe because it doesn't work and someone is trying to pull a fast one? If I was selling, or buying for that matter, I'd have the machine set up so it could be tried out. Things tend to sell easier and for more money that way. The question was regarding the machine in the picture, not a well cared for one. Lanse doesn't have a lot of money and it would be better for him to save up and buy a name brand machine. The last thing he needs is to buy something and then find out he has to either spend a bunch more to fix it or can't get parts for it. Then he'd have to spend the money to replace it anyway. Why not just buy a machine you know is good in the first place and will have readily available parts and service for the next 5 years at least? Dave
 
Personally, I wouldn't touch that one, in the first place I wouldn't want to have to work on it to get it ready to go, second place it's a cheezy brand, and third there's just too many good welders for sale, and like everything else right now, it's a buyers market. A couple years ago I got my TIG and MIG, got the TIG over at Sears Point from a vintage race car restorer that had it on ebay, just drove over (20 min) and checked it out, good machine, an Airco Heliwelder with a water cooling tank made from an old race car fuel cell LOL- $800 with water-cooled torch, tank, wheeled cart, everything. Looked on craigs until I found the MIG I wanted, an old classic Millermatic 200, thought by more than a few to be the best MIG Miller ever made, real nice shape with a new tank, 40' cord, & nice cart for $600. Keep looking, don't get in a hurry, you'll find a lot better one soon enough
 
That particular one looks like it's been around the block a few
times (kicked around the block) but in general, they are not
horrible welders. I've had a clarke 130 en gas welder for years and
it does everything I ask of it, except weld aluminum. The one I have
was made in Italy, and has dials for everything. If I were to buy
another, I'd buy a Miller or Esab, but I don't have the money for one
of those so I have a Clarke.
 
Lance-I have that welder, have owned it for 15years, and it is using argon gas. I use it for sheetmetal and thin metals. Have fairly good luck welding cast iron with it also. But, it is not a easy welder to get along with. I use a thinner wire in it than what the shielded wire is. And even with that many years of using it I still can't weld without fighting the wire sticking in the guns tip. So if I were in your shoes right now I would probably go a different route on this unless it is dirt cheap and You like a challenge. You know right now I am wondering why I never bought a better one?
On a positive note it has never needed repair so I guess it is reliable!
Good Luck!
 
For your wire sticking in the tip,try a bigger tip,or take a torch cleaner that has the little drill bits and drill it out a little bigger and it might help that problem.Also the nozzle spray or gell might help a little too.It will still stick,but maybe not as much.Also it helps to trim the wire every time before you try and weld.
 
Thanks for your advise trucker40! But been there done that with trying to drill bigger tips, I always have to use jell with this welder or it is unusable. I also turn the gas up plenty high. I think it has more to do with limited power settings than anything else on the sticking tip. I have used other welders that work alot better!
 
speaking of wire sticking and arcing back a couple of common problems 1. dirty wire even a very light dusting of surface rust on the wire will drve you wild, there is a wire wiper felt available at good welding outlets but most times the wire is junk.KEEP YOUR WIRE DRY AT ALL TIMES use the de-hy packs that come with new wire, take the wire and store in a warm dry place if your shop is not humidity controlled. 2. many economy welders come equipped with extremely poor quality whips and guns, check out the difference between what you have and a Berrard or Binzel
 
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