Dusty MI

Well-known Member
Has anyone on here ever used Wood Edge Tape. https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=wood+edge+tape&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8


It's used to put on the edge of ply wood that has been used to make a piece of furniture.
What I'm doing is making some Lazy Susan's for inside some cabinets. So I wand a raised lip on the edge of the Lazy Susan's.
I'm using 1/2" ply wood. So Wood it work to take 1-1/2" wood edge tape, fold over or cut off 1/2" wide a strip of it and stick it back to back, then stick it to the ply wood?
Clear as mud?

Thanks
Dusty
 
Yes, I've used a lot of it. I buy it in 250' rolls. The tape is coated on one side with hot melt glue so you apply it to the wood with a hot iron. Be sure to go slow with the iron so the heat thoroughly melts the glue. It's about 7/8" wide so after you iron it on use a tool like this to trim off the excess. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-double-edge-laminate-trimmer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvLqzgJSs1gIVBYN-Ch00GQRGEAQYAiABEgL08PD_BwE It trims it quick and easy as it does both sides at once. Then all that is needed is sanding.
 
As you need such a small amount, you could also use a piece of straight-grained wood from a 3/4" thick board. Don't know what you have in mind for a finish or if wood species matters, but find a suitable board, use tablesaw to rip a 1/8"-thick strip of wood, clean up any marks with a handheld sander and glue/attach in place.

If the wood doesn't want to bend well enough, get a piece of aluminum foil longer than the strip, place wood strip and water inside foil and wrap up. Now stick that into a piece of 1" metal pipe. Using a hair dryer, blow hot air through the pipe for 1/2 hour. Use a water-activated glue to apply, as the wood will already be damp. Trim to exact length using a fine-cut trim saw. Allow wood and glue to fully dry, then apply finish.

Rather than ripping a piece on the table saw, it would actually be better if you could split a piece of wood from the board, then run it through a planer to thickness. The straighter the grain, the less likely it is to break.

Don't know about now, but used to be able to get the wood edging without any adhesive - just a thin veneer of wood in a coil. You might also try finding a local custom cabinet maker and seeing if they might have a small piece you could purchase, or if maybe they have a small scrap that would do the job.
 
I've used it as intended, to cover the edge of a sheet of plywood. I don't know that you'll be happy trying to use it to make a raised edge, as it's pretty thin. It would take several layers to get it thick enough.

Since you're making several platters, I suggest you make a steam box out of PVC pipe and use it to bend strips of wood cut to your desired thickness.
 
I made several back in the day and used a strip of counter top formica. I don't think the end user would be happy with the edge tape. You can cut the formica to the width that would keep small cans or bottles from tipping of the back in the square corners. I used an inch above the shelf surface on most. If I was to make one for myself now I would use two inches or more on a bottom unit as clumsy I have became. I used contact cement and just a few small nails evenly spaced and drilled the formica. I don't remember the spacing I used.
 
I use the hot melt iron-on stuff with good success. Some of my tips:

1) Travel slowly with the iron (like a half inch per second).

2) Follow the iron (litteraly) with a block of wood in the other hand to apply pressure as the adhesive is cooling.

3) After you're ironed it on & it cooled a minute or so, drag your finger along the edge, more or less trying to lift the veneer
from the plywood & listen. If it sounds loose, heat & press again. Do the same after it's trimmed to thickness.

4) Prior to banding, your edges must be cut nice & square. Irratic cuts with a dull or wobbling saw are difficult to cover.

Pete
 

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