Open circuit electrical sytem

I have a simple converted electrical system on my 1952 Farmal Super C.There has been a problem with charging since I bought the tractor which had been restored and parked for a number of years in a warehouse.It is 12 volt, with alternator and has an internal voltage regulator I believe.I normally recharge and use the tractor but when I leave it hooked up,the battery goes dead.Yesterday i tried to jump it to start and although hooked positive to positive and neg to neg,the jumper cables overheated so I had to disconnect.How do I test, to see where the problem exists and what do I look for to solve this problem?

Your internal voltage regulator is probably the culprit. You can talk to your local shop that repairs alternators, starters and generators to see if they can check your alternator's regulator. You can also install a master switch between where your battery is grounded and the ground cable on your battery. Military vehicles have used this for years. This will isolate your battery from being grounded and prevent any discharging. Hal

I agree sounds like a shorted regulator. I have seen it many times on standby gensets.

It sounds to me like you need a switch in the curcuit that excites the alternator. What alternator are you using?

Bet you have a 1 wire alternator on it and that is your problem. If it is a 3 wire then it is wired wrong and by now the alternator has probably burned out so then you need to wire it correctly and replace the alternator

I believe it is a GM alternator,please see pictures!

Somebody verify this as I no longer have my Case to check but I believe the alternator sense and excite leads are frogged. The output should go to pin 2 and excite should go to pin 1.
I've added a piece I wrote long ago in response to a 'battery drain' problem. Your 'sense lead' will probably/should include a diode or a mechanical switch to open when the engine is stopped. The oil pressure sender method is uncommon. Good luck, Sam

"Over time you'll see several ways to solve the excite/discharge problem you're having. What was installed on my Case when I acquired it is as follows:
(1) Run a strap from the alternator output to pin (2).
(2) Plumb a tee into the oil pressure gauge port and install a normally open (NO) oil pressure sender (use a low pressure switch) switch in one side and the gauge pipe in the other.
(3) Run another wire from the alternator output to one side of the switch.
(4) Run a wire from the other side of the switch to pin 1.
When the engine starts and the oil pressure comes up the switch will close battery to pin (1) and excite the alternator. When engine is stopped the oil pressure drops and the battery is removed from (1) so no drain."

I think those yellow wheels could be the problem.

crossing the two wires at the side will probably solve your problem

Sam #3 is right the 1 and 2 terminals are backwards

Ron, Whenever you think you have a problem with an alternator, take it to Auto Zone or NAPA. They will check it for free. You are looking at 2 bolts and 3 wires. I would advise you to run both terminals 1 & 2 through your switch. I purchased a new alternator and the terminal that is to be connected directly to the +12 v, I think it was the #2 terminal, the one on the right, had a 15 ma drain. The switch solved all draining problems, reguardless how small.

If you do purchase a new alternator, you may run into a time delay between the start up and the alternator going to work. I recently replaced the alternator on my IH C. My old alternator would charge at an idle. New alternator won't charge until I rev up the engine. The same is true with my Jubilee. Lazy alternators.

George