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ehtanol gas problem

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
i run a 1940 h which i have already rebuilt to
higher compression and have had the carb redone by
Dennys and mag redone by brillman last fall for
getting fire wood it ran fine this past weekend
it absolutely would not start by hand me and the
boy had to pull it for almost half an hour after
good and warm i stalled it then no hand start
pull it again this time only 20 feet could this
hard stating issue be because of old e10 or e15 87
octane gas? my neighbor has a crank start farmall
a he sometimes has the same problem what is the
best way to remedy this for i dont run my little
jd every day please help and thanks any answers
 
i looked at some of the thoughts on denny, not good however that doesnt explain why im having issues with starting
 
thanks 4 the reply dave i havent adjusted the timing or anything and making good spark and still out of nowhere hard 2 start after always being easy
 
I have always had excellent carb work done by MOTEC ENG Tipton Ind. No I am not related nor have any connection to him
 
Why not use the ELECTRIC STARTER?????? All hand cranks are good for are MAKING BLISTERS on your hands and/or BREAKING WRISTS!!!!! Hang that crank on the shop wall and go electric. Armand
 
I think the gasoline could be a problem.
I've read on here before that people who use aviation gasoline have much better success.
Why not drain all the old gas out and try some AV gas.
I know I've had some problems with the rubber gas hose that is suppose to be rated for gasoline. Gasoline in the hose turns gold colored rather quickly.
 
Beg to differ about hand crank tractors. I've been using them for over 50 years with minimal problems. If it won't start by towing it won't start with a starter either. If it's tuned right and in decent shape hand starting is not a problem. I can't diagnose the problem from a distance, but lack of an electric starter isn't it.
 
No.

I've been running 87 octane E10 in my Super M for years although I don't hand crank but it starts easy, just tap the starter.

If you were worried about that put a can of Seafoam gas additive. Run it for an hour or two and see how it restarts. If its the same then ethanol isn't your issue, which I figure it isn't anyway... You could also try a couple gallons of high test.
 
My guess is you do have a fuel problem. NOT the ethanol but the OLD part.

The fuel we have now is sometimes refered to as boutique fuel. Gas blends are made for locals and seasons. In the winter the fuel is more volatile and none of this stuff lasts much past 6 months.

Try dumping the gas and put in new, My guess is that will fix your starting problem.

jt
 
Drain your gas and put in new. I don't think ethanol is your problem. If anything, an ethanol blend should help your tractor, since you are running with a higher compression ratio.

SF
 

What does alcohol generally do..??

Draws WATER....(Hygroscopic)....

Some pullers won't leave fuel an alcohol blend in the tank over NIGHT...they say they can tell the difference if they do..
I believe I would change the fuel AND the plugs..

Ron..
 
You have gas fouled spark plugs,The spark doesnt jump the gap but runs up the insulator in thin streams.The gas wont ignite.I keep a pair of plugs in a covered jar of lacquer thinner.A shot of starting fluid in the air intake will tell you if its bad gas.Ive had an H for over 40 years.Tractors need a hotter plug with unleaded gas.Most owners ignore this and have much trouble with gas fouled plugs.
 
Armand,2 cylinder JDs dont have a hand crank.You take hold of the fly wheel and turn it.There are finger grooves on the back of the flywheel.My H is electric start.
 

The ethanol is NOT your problem. I run E85 in my 1940 H and it starts and runs just fine.

I've personally witnessed some of "Denny's" work. You probably should get someone else to have a look at your carburetor.
 
Well i would say that the carb that Denny's rebuilt for you is like the three that i have seen in the past .It is screwed up . I have seen his handy work first hand both on carbs and dist. My accountant found out the hard way on a carb and dist. he bought from them , i ened up having to build another carb and totally rebuild and re curve the dist to get the tractor to run . But hey he runs a big add and he gets people to spend there money on him only to find out that he is and idiot . You say that you built it to high compression and myself i do not know what ya did or what you call high compression , If you put in and overbore kit and used step head pistons yea it is a LITTLE over stock and the stock carb is good enough . so what you have learned is ya don't believe what ya read and ya don't deal with people that ya can't look them in the eye and never deal with someone that will not stand behind his work. I rebuild around four or five carbs a year now even though i am semi retired and i am the one that removes the carb and installs it and IF i screw up i am the one that makes it wright . Now as for the gas your using that is up to you BUT that is not the gas of my choice. I am not there to check your tractor over myself.
 
thanks to everyone for a reply. just for the reccord my h is a 1940 and the only starter is your right and left. the higher compression is just higher than stock, 30 over step top pistons rather than flat top oems. from all the replies i'm gonna drain the gas use fresh with new plugs and see what happens. what is the general opinion on an additive for the gas? the gas we have here in northeast pa is e15 unleaded blend. however there is a small non commercial airfield nearby so maybe i'll try some of that. thanks again to everyone.
 
(quoted from post at 18:09:54 06/16/11) thanks to everyone for a reply. just for the reccord my h is a 1940 and the only starter is your right and left. the higher compression is just higher than stock, 30 over step top pistons rather than flat top oems. from all the replies i'm gonna drain the gas use fresh with new plugs and see what happens. what is the general opinion on an additive for the gas? the gas we have here in northeast pa is e15 unleaded blend. however there is a small non commercial airfield nearby so maybe i'll try some of that. thanks again to everyone.
Click to expand...

The additives will do nothing more than empty your wallet. You don't need any. E10 fuel is 89 octane, and the E15 is even higher in octane, so that should be more than good enough for your H. Just for the record, E85, if available, is 105 octane, it just doesn't get much better than that. I don't know the octane rating of aviation gasoline, but I doubt it is any higher than the E85.
 
I could be persuaded that ethanol blend isn't necessarily bad, BUT [u:d81c27c8a4]old [/u:d81c27c8a4]ethanol blend IS BAD. FACT: you could store 1960's gasoline for 30 years & run it just fine (& that is personal experience talking), but you store ethanol blend, well under one year, and it takes on moisture & separates and the goo settles to the bottom. Put some in a glass jar, set it on a shelf & observe for a year. I have & you will see it, too.
Since it seems we may be stuck with ethanol, the answer is don't store it, always use fresh....just like milk & bread.
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:35 06/17/11) I could be persuaded that ethanol blend isn't necessarily bad, BUT [u:d9f3d68bf0]old [/u:d9f3d68bf0]ethanol blend IS BAD. FACT: you could store 1960's gasoline for 30 years & run it just fine (& that is personal experience talking), but you store ethanol blend, well under one year, and it takes on moisture & separates and the goo settles to the bottom. Put some in a glass jar, set it on a shelf & observe for a year. I have & you will see it, too.
Since it seems we may be stuck with ethanol, the answer is don't store it, always use fresh....just like milk & bread.
Click to expand...

JMOR is right. Modren gas start to go bad about the 90 day mark. Gas stablizers can extend that by about 90 days but only if added when the gas is fresh.

I run E10 in my M. Has electric start but a couple times a year I hand crank it just to impress the grandkids. Starts right up.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:35 06/17/11) I could be persuaded that ethanol blend isn't necessarily bad, BUT [u:ecd12880ad]old [/u:ecd12880ad]ethanol blend IS BAD. FACT: you could store 1960's gasoline for 30 years & run it just fine (& that is personal experience talking), but you store ethanol blend, well under one year, and it takes on moisture & separates and the goo settles to the bottom. Put some in a glass jar, set it on a shelf & observe for a year. I have & you will see it, too.
Since it seems we may be stuck with ethanol, the answer is don't store it, always use fresh....just like milk & bread.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm just lucky, but I started out this spring using E10 that was purchased June of last year. No problems at all. It even smells fresh.
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:11 06/17/11)
(quoted from post at 06:26:35 06/17/11) I could be persuaded that ethanol blend isn't necessarily bad, BUT [u:b1e92d6c04]old [/u:b1e92d6c04]ethanol blend IS BAD. FACT: you could store 1960's gasoline for 30 years & run it just fine (& that is personal experience talking), but you store ethanol blend, well under one year, and it takes on moisture & separates and the goo settles to the bottom. Put some in a glass jar, set it on a shelf & observe for a year. I have & you will see it, too.
Since it seems we may be stuck with ethanol, the answer is don't store it, always use fresh....just like milk & bread.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm just lucky, but I started out this spring using E10 that was purchased June of last year. No problems at all. It even smells fresh.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I think ethanol always smells better in a corn-state. :D
 
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