?????? Off topic as usual

Old Roy

Well-known Member
Manometer..

I am into a technical system to find out If my oil consumption is due to rings or maybe just going out through the valves.

What I have done was build a manometer like the one explained in a you tube version. that looked like it may have been made of 3/8 tubing.

Engine manual says to use a manometer to check vacuum in crankcase. A good reading would be -15"

I need to know what size tubing was used for a mechanics manometer. may have been smaller. with the 3/8 tubing I get a steady - 7 1/2"

If I went to say maybe 1/4 tubing would the reading be higher as spec calls for ?
 
This is maybe what I need by adding both ends of the water line because the one end I am only reading a vacume of 7.5 but if I add both sides
of + 7.5 and - 7.5 it does add to 15" I didn't know how to read it I guess.
 
Thanks Joseph that's what I needed to know.

guess my oil consumption may now be as bad as a fix then . I got good compression . eliminating possible rings.

I have perfect vacuum, and a good positive crank case ventilation. so it has to be the valve seals .

By the way this in on a K 17 series ll engine
 
I don't see how the size of the tubing would make any difference.
I have never had any luck doing a valve job and new valves seals, but you can always try. My advice is to rebuild the motor. My neighbor just did a valve job on his truck. He wasted his time; still uses oil.
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The one I built is more simpler than those readings.

as the Video suggested I took a piece of 2X4 24" long measured up to a 10" mark and called that "0"

then made increments of 1" above and below the "0" mark 1" through 8" seems to be OK for What I needed as it does in fact give the 15" by adding both sides. I just was entertaining the thought that a larger volume of water would be heavier to pull such a needed reading. only after I was told I needed 15 " and I didn't know how to read it
I believed it was only reading 7 1/2" just reading the vacuum side, or the side connected to engine.
 
"I got good compression . eliminating possible rings."

NOT necessarily.

The OIL CONTROL RINGS have VERY LITTLE to do with compression. There's 2 rings above 'em that seal against compression. The oil rings act as "scrapers" pulling the oil downward (or "INWARD" with your flat twin).

That flat-head twin with the "valve boxes" on top is FAR more likely to be pumping oil past the rings than pulling it in by the intake valves as the valveboxes are in a relatively oil-free area compared to the valves on an OHV engine where the whole valvespring/valvestem area is DRENCHED with oil.

In other words, you can have an engine with good compression and bad/broken oil control rings and it will burn oil.
 
I don't like you answer-- something I didn't want to hear -- LOL I thank you for the come back.

I just had this engine apart last summer. was supposed to be a re manufactured engine only a few years ago. I have the paper here somewhere I believe it was around 1400.00 Po said his grandson didn't check the oil a couple times and did in fact run it till it locked up.

I went to buy this machine knowing it was blown, but when I got it home (before pushing it off the trailer I decided to pull off the tin on the starter side. I found the starter was stuck very bad so I pried on the drive shaft till it came loose put oil in engine, and it actually started.

Long story short I ended up loosing a rod cap in about 2 min of playing with the throttle so all I replaced was the rod.

When I had it down rings looked too good to replace. and the cylinders could have been maybe honed a bit. Didn't have a Hone at that time .

I just hate the thought of having to split it again .
 
The volume of water will make no difference. I know it seems that way, but it's not. Try a different size tubing if you want. A certain amount of vacuum will raise water a certain amount no matter what size pipe you use, but there is a limit that I can't remember now, maybe 11 or 15 feet. That's why they have to use a jet pump or a submersible pump to pump water over that depth.
Here is another manometer link.
If you have questions about most anything, just type in the search box and the internet will usually provide an answer.
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