OT....... How much to set blocks?

Next step in my new building is to set 810 cement blocks, everything is ready. Taking in bids from a few contractors. First bid came in a $6,560.00. It includes everything, I simply write a check. They supply the blocks, sand, gravel for fill etc..

That's $8.10 per block! Seems awfully high to me. Anybody have any of this work done lately?

L.

In this area about $175 per block and the same to lay them and you furnish materils that would come out about half that.

(quoted from post at 05:27:12 09/07/11) Next step in my new building is to set 810 cement blocks, everything is ready. Taking in bids from a few contractors. First bid came in a $6,560.00. It includes everything, I simply write a check. They supply the blocks, sand, gravel for fill etc..

That's $8.10 per block! Seems awfully high to me. Anybody have any of this work done lately?

L.

Click to expand...

Home Depot wants $1.25 per 8 inch block. We used to always charge the cost of a block to do the setting, so that puts you at $2.50. I would add 15% if it was over 10 miles away, so that makes about $2.88 per block.
Sand and cement ought to be about ? $9.50 a bag and you should be able to do around 35 blocks from a bag. That adds another $.28 per block,so you are at $3.06 per block. They want $8.10 per block. Even if I am off by a $1 that is pretty pricy.

Mr Lloyd, you always ( Always ) get a second or third opinion or bid, why did you Not think of that ???

Promise, Re-read my post. I said getting bids, this is the first. Why did you think I wasn't getting more bids? (in my mind I thought reasonable pricing would be as others in this post have confirmed) I ALWAYS get more than 1 bid.

First bid was so high, nearly double expectations. I thought maybe my expectations were unreasonable? Many people here have experience with this, and it is always nice to get other opinions.

This time I wasn't far off it would seem. Hopefull that additonal bids not yet in will be more closer to expectations.

L.

Hey Lloyd,

Not trying to push my nose in your business but have you checked on poured walls?? Around here you can get it done cheaper, and you have a better wall when you are finished.

Block/brick layers are pretty pricey around here too, it's getting to be a lost art. I helped a mason on a couple jobs for my dad when I was younger....... those guys earn their money.

Good luck,

Tim

I second the thought of getting prices for poured wall.
ttp://www.foundationsplus.com/id67.html

I second the thought of getting prices for poured wall.
ttp://www.foundationsplus.com/id67.html

Last time I used blocks for a foundation, they were .50 and you paid .50 to have them laid plus materials. I only use poured walls now. One day to set forms and pour, strip them the next day and they are done. They are running $32 per foot for an 8 ft. wall. $18 for a 4 ft. wall. Footings run $10 per ft. That's in SE SD. I think your first bid guy was looking for a quick buck or he didn't want to do it to bad.

Remember and especially with masonry, you get what you pay for, lowest bid is not always the best bid.

I'm not current on sq ft pricing on masonry installed & Concrete Masonry Units (C.M.U.), this is a small residential or ag type job, so pricing may vary quite a bit.

In the residential echelon of masonry, it would be wise to know you are getting a reputable contractor and subsequent job. I'm not sure if any applicable codes or designs are mandated for what you plan to build, but if so, you need to make sure contractors bid/price complies and or is based one same, (I'm sure you have plans, wall details in section etc.)

On a small job, I would want masonry certifications for the C.M.U. submitted for approval or record, same with mortar mix design, ( you can actually fill test cubes for compressive strength testing, though not necessary) just to know you are getting acceptable materials provided by the contractor. There are many kinds of C.M.U. Also be aware that as the molds on these get older from use you may get CMU that have a more porous or coarse finish/texture, might be important, might not be, I've seen varying degrees of it in the past.

I would want to insure all reinforcing, lintel, flashings, rough opening details are coordinated, agreed upon, and also that any sill plate fastener embeds are done on top of the wall per your roof framing, in addition to any required filled cells. You need to coordinate filled cells of the CMU in areas you may want to fasten too, its a lot stronger than hollow cells/CMU and if CMU is common, not high strength, 75% filled for example, the cell wall thickness, strength may not be compatible with say hardware or things you may want to mount with the wall.

In addition to that, if electrical is to be non surface installed, electrician needs to coordinate conduit risers, wiring device boxes within the walls, as they are built, just a consideration.

A very smart idea to insure rough openings are built to approved plans, and coordinated, and or approved for the windows, doors, vents, etc. that will be installed. Also any wall penetrations if any.

Structural, good to know your beam pockets are located per plans or what have you, any reinforced areas, filled areas meet requirements, say for example a column within the wall to support a beam etc.

Just some things I would want to be aware of for any masonry job, thought I would share.

PS, I have seen quite often, where CMU cells really need to be filled for fastening, especially if just common CMU, one place I did some repairs was a horse stable in Wellington Fla. where all those expensive CMU construction type barns are in one place, all the stall hardware was pulling out, failing because the cells were hollow, owner is wealthy, but has not a clue as to the small details like these, easy to overlook.

Best of luck with the job !!!

Thanks Everyone! All good data. I will look at the poured walls.

Hope to have better prices coming my way, no problem with paying a fare price, for good work.

Thanks again!

L.

Is there a reason since it's a barn that you don't just use a treated base and just frame up from the slab?

Hi Dave!

My building site is the side of a hill. One end will be set in the bank about 6', one side is 3' tapering to 12". As I have to have the blocks done, going on the other 2 sides with 3 courses so my metal sides are up away from the ground, cause we are already there.

Stick building the bard ontop of the blocks, using metal like a pole barn, and a tin roof. Inside 2/3's of the building will be finished, workshop, etc.

I included a pic, you can see the one bank it sits in, the right side you can just make out the taller bank.

L.

L.

Even with a slab above grade, I like to have a foot or two of masonry before I start framing. In a wet climate you've got rain bouncing up on the outside, and probable water inside from bringing in wet vehicles, thawing snow, etc.
I suppose many trust the treated wood. I just feel the masonry is a longer term thing.

Better check about the ground pressure on the filled in side. Most of the time if not done right it will start pushing that wall in in a very short time. In your application I would really say in the long run you will be better off with poured walls. Look in your area for the guy with the best reputation for good work and have him submit a bid.

Rick

In Western Ky, the cost runs 1.85 to 2.10 per block, you provide the materials.

That happens often, an afterthought/poor design if there is no drain or slope on the concrete, water/frozen slush from vehicles, + the outside eaves if no gutters, knee wall is nice to prevent that or not have to worry about it, basically any raised curb you can build off will keep that sill plate dry, unless you have deep snow that will thaw, then maybe a higher knee wall would be better.

A good friend built a nice 2 car garage on a slab on grade for his folks at their farm, maybe 15+ years ago. Water from slush would pond and like Murphy's law, the low area in the slab was next to a wall and sill plate. He's been using a squeegee to push it away probably since then. I brought my Hilti TE-52 over and drilled some holes under the workbench, next to the wall, into the gravel, it now drains out. Same issue with the exterior, finally put gutters on, T-111 sideing will last a lot longer now.

I would go with the poured walls. Hal

Asfor your quote,what is the gravel fill for?That would raise your price maybe a good bit cause that would be a nother job beyond the block work.

I paid $ 12,500 for a 5 course block crawl space with 300 lineal feet of 42" deep footing in 1999. This was for a 2500 sq. foot home. A basement would have cost me $25,000 (poured wall)
That was 36 yards of crete, labor to dig the footing trenches and all material.

Couldn't imagine a house without a full basement. Full access to all utilities. And laundry, utilities, barn/work shower and storage are down stairs instead of taking up living space.

Yes I fooked up, I should have had a basement and I regret it now. But....I saved $12,000 and have a big garage instead. All my utilities are upstairs, I have a deep crawl space though and it is between 55F and 65F all year round. I also dont have to worry about a flooded basement either. I never had a basement, my first house was on a slab, parents house is on a crawl space. The floor of my house sits 5 feet above final grade. The only way I will have my home flooded is if a tidal wave comes threw. And I am nowhere near water.

Looking at the slab you have poured and couldn't tell, did you put footings under it? Blocks or a poured wall won't last if you didn't.

(quoted from post at 07:27:12 09/07/11) Next step in my new building is to set 810 cement blocks, everything is ready. Taking in bids from a few contractors. First bid came in a $6,560.00. It includes everything, I simply write a check. They supply the blocks, sand, gravel for fill etc..

That's $8.10 per block! Seems awfully high to me. Anybody have any of this work done lately?

L.

Click to expand...

That bid is right on the money for here in south central WI for a residential job. For a commercial job you are looking at $10 per block and up depending on the details (depending on how much grout or if its a 3 story job site etc.).

The old rule of thumb is: labor for masonry is twice the cost of the materials..... all of the materials, not just the blocks. And Im not talking the on sale price of blocks that you see listed in the Menards or Home Depot flyer twice a year, Im talking call up the brick yard and get a price on blocks. Take that price and add cost of mortar, rebar, grout and anything else and do the math from there. Keep in mind though, the rule of thumb is pretty rough. Its just bar napkin figuring to get in the ball park, you need lots of details to give an accurate bid.

You are going to build your masonry wall on top of the slab and have 6 feet of fill behind it on the one side???? How do you plan on keeping that wall from pushing in? Wall should start below grade to stabilize it.