steel tubing gauge question

ericlb

Well-known Member
i got to weld up a 7 foot gate frame out of 1 inch square tubing, weight is a critical factor as the only support i have is a 4x4 wood post in 2 feet of concrete and due to the property boundries, and the way the gate works, i cannot install a brace on the post, i can get 14, 16 and 18 gauge tubing, i will be gas welding it as my arc welder burns too hot [ isnt 18 gauge about like sheetmetal?] can i go with 16 gauge and be ok, just how thick in inch fractions are these gauges, from here its a 140 mile trip to pick up the tubing,and im buying 140 feet of it , so im trying to plan things out first as well as the difference in price, [ its for a little old lady i got "volenteered" to help out ]
 
if your gate winds up being to heavy,why not build a gate opening like an inverted U...not sure how high you need it but with a 7' width i dont think youre running anything too big thru there...i use that type gate brace on nearly all the gates on ranch...no sags yet.
 
I"ve made several odd size gates from Patio panel gates from Lowes. Shorten them as needed,weld up the shortened end with angle iron stock,attach the hinge on gate. The other part of the hinge on support post and your gate is done. I use the 60" High gate panels.96" Panels Is off the shelf here in Arizona.Mostly animal proof except for rabbits and such. Should be more cost effective than the way you are going with the tubeing. I always considered any Guage less than 20 Ga. to be sheet metal,around 29 Guage is slightly less than HVAC tin. 29 guage can be bent on a contractor type metal Break.
 
Sheetmetal (tubing) gages are a little different than wire gages.

18ga= 0.049"

16ga= 0.065"

14ga= 0.083"
 
I use one inch thin wall conduit for my light gates.

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Dick,
make sure you grind off the galvanized coating before you weld up those gates. Inhale too much of those burning zinc fumes and it will kill you.
 
I doubt it. I'm 73 now and helped build a grain elevator in high school out of wind mill angle iron. been welding galvanized off and on all these years. If it kills me it will probly take another 20 ta 30 years or more.
 
I'd use the .083 wall for a stronger gate and see if I could rent a MIG welder or even use self shielded flux-core wire. A 120 volt MIG would work for your project and save a lot of time and O/A gas costs. .083 isn't too hard to weld with a stick welder if you have a good fit up. I'd use 3/32" 6011 or 7014. Even 6013 would hold a gate together.:shock: Make adjustable hinges so the gate can be adjusted if it starts to sag. Can you use a 6 x 4 post instead? Make sure to use extra protection on the post in the concrete or the post will rot.
 
I doubt that you can build and finish a steel tubing gate as inexpensively as you can buy one at a farm store, and those gates are usually pretty well painted or galvanized. Have you considered swinging the new gate the other way and setting a new, more substantial gate post while using the existing post as a latch post? Just an idea. Good luck!
 

A 6 foot gate at TSC is $60
you will spend more in gas going after the material.

I never build gates, Time, Material, Electric. I can buy 2 for what it cost to build one

As for support, I've had a 10 footer hanging on a 4X4 post for 8 years now
 

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