(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Fluid in tires-With pictures

D

Don-Wi

Well-known Member
We had a flat on our Massey 285, and the tires were quite worn, so we had the tires from our long dead Oliver 1755 mounted on the 285. The 1755 got a hole in the tire atleast 5 years ago, and being that it wasn't a working tractor we were concerned but didn't do anything about it because whats the point of fixing a tire on a non-working tractor?

Anyway, here are pictures of each rim. The tractor has probably had fluid in it from day 1, and that's alomst 40 years ago.

P1030032.jpg


P1030035.jpg


P1030037.jpg


The rim on the side that didn't leak is fine, and I would fully expect it to go another 80 years no question. The other rim only has bad rust on the top above where the fluid was against the rim. I would still expect it to be good once cleaned up and painted again. For the guys that say fluid is the devil, yes it is if you don't fix a leak right away. If you notice your rim is wet around the valve stem, FIX IT!!! A service call for a leak is cheaper than a service call for a new rim because of a leak.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
My 4020 rims were ten times worse than the worst spot on
your rims about the same age 44 years old . I had one hell
of a job getting all that crap taken off
 
Don thanks for posting the pic. I have used C.C. for years and never had a rim problem. When you see wet get it FIXED.

Bob
 
Here's some pictures of one of mine off of a 1964 930 Case.. I too am willing to bet it's been loaded since day one.. Bought it from a family member of the believed 2nd owner, and is turboed.. Extra power is worthless if ya can't hook to the ground, so..

HPIM0881.jpg


HPIM0879.jpg


Not saying there isn't things better than CaCl, but with proper care it works just fine.

Brad
 
OK super hero. You are a very wonderful and
special person to face adversity everyday and win.
You are so much smarter and faster than the mere
mortals.
How about the leaks that you can't see around the
valve stem ?
What about the times when a tire is punctured or
fails. Is it worth it then when the calcium
chloride rusts and corrode everything it touches?
Beats me why some folk have to love what can do
them wrong.Best way to avoid potential trouble is
to just avoid things that can be trouble. Use
something else as liquid ballast.
 
Rim guard is pretty spendy. Fine if you got deep pockets.

Anything else is light-wieght and/or toxic, sure as heck don't want _those_ things leaking out of my tires!

Pretty much leaves the old standby, CC & tend to your business of using the tractor, and maintaining it.

If it's a show tractor, don't need any ballast to drive down the parade routes so it's not an issue.

--->Paul
 
Anything else is light-wieght and/or toxic, sure as heck don't want _those_ things leaking out of my tires!

--->Paul
Click to expand...

How does the difference of a 25 to 300lbs makes or breaks the difference in performance of your 3000 to 10,000lb tractor?With washer fluid vs. salt ballast?
The tractor gains or looses more weight with the difference in operator weight or fuel tank level. Nobody worries about that variance.
There is more traction difference to be found with optimal tire inflation and hitch adjustments.
 
Anything else is light-wieght and/or toxic, sure as heck don't want _those_ things leaking out of my tires!

--->Paul
Click to expand...

How does the difference of a 25 to 300lbs makes or breaks the difference in performance of your 3000 to 10,000lb tractor?With washer fluid vs. salt ballast?
The tractor gains or looses more weight with the difference in operator weight or fuel tank level. Nobody worries about that variance.
There is more traction difference to be found with optimal tire inflation and hitch adjustments.
 

buickanddeere
Maybe some people have there own way of wanting to do something.

I compare it to you trying to talk forum posters into buying a new instead of used tractor when you won't/can't buy a new tractor yourself. If a new tractor is so much more economical then what's holding you back??
 
Calcium chloride works fine and is cheap. I reckon you could buy a spare set of rims for what that other stuff cost. Not as many tractors with fluid weight anymore but the ones that have it are still filled with calcium chloride.
bill
 
Quote from JD dealer for Rim Guard (beet juice-only thing they sell) for two 18.4x38s was $1000.
Quote from local tire dealer for CaCl (only thing they sell) was $679. Tire dealers price was firm. The JD price of exactly $1000 leads me to believe I could probably get a little better deal there. Even if I couldn't, it seems like $300+ is a cheap price to pay for not having to worry about rusted rims at some point.
 
Good post Don,
Some guys complain that they only got 50 years out of their rims because the PO used CaCl.
I guess they were hoping for 75 years or more.
 
Bellyaching/complaining/denigrating.....Cacl? Worrying about a rim rusting through? Like it happens overnight? No, it happens because of poor maintenance! Neglect. Cheapest source of weight, most pounds per gallon....that"s why farmers used it......been used for almost 80 years, cuz it works! Things don"t fix themselves- if a tire is leaking fluid, it needs to be fixed. Rocket science? I don"t think so.
 
I've got a 5 year old tractor that the rim was almost destroyed on. No visible leak, just tiny seepage near the stem.

Neighbours have one they knocked the stem off of, the cacl sprayed all over the tractor. We washed and pressure washed and washed some more and spraying everything with oil, and still everything is all jammed and seized and rusted. What a pain to work on or hook an implement up too.
 
I'm shopping for 450 lb weights for a Deere for use next spring. Can't find any used ones yet, but new ones are $1200 APIECE.

I'm a former calcium cloride user who had a bad experience and got rid of it. Had it in the rears of the 1086 and it did give good traction, no doubt. Then the right rim split on the inside and fluid shot under the cab. Flushed everything off well, but a month later all of the shifting linkage rusted tight and the tranny was jamming in two gears at once. Spent a whole day bending down over the hole in the cab floor removing, polishing, and greasing every nit-picking movable part I could get my hands on. Now that tractor has three cast iron weights on the inside of each wheel and two on the outside. I forget what I paid for the weights and bolts so I can't compare prices but the cast iron probably cost more than fluid, but I'll pay the extra price any day. Jim
 
for that kind of money i would just by some weights and not have the problems you also pay $50.00 to a $100.00 more every time the tire dealer has to fix a tire just to pump that crap
 
Used calc my whole life and always do my own tires, no problems, but like stated maintenance has to be done, it isn't always the calc. equipment just setting out will rust wheels, had a flat on my green chopper this fall, set out all its life and the rim is very rusty and the stem hole is bad, just from manure and wet and no maintenance. I have heard that the other liquids being used for ballast will rot these new import tubes in less than 10 years, anybody have any experience with that??
 
Please don't tell my 1946 AC rims Calcium Chloride is bad for them, they may decide to retire after 65 years of faithful service.

Rick
 

Good demonstration Don, It proves that without Oxygen oxidation will not take place. I have posted this on here before, It is the repeated airing up that supplies the oxygen to enable rust to get beyond what is barely noticeable. So it is not the CaCl. It is the CaCl PLUS air.
 
Or just dont use liquid ballast at all. Wheel weights offer a better ride, better tractive effort of the tire and offer much cheaper tire repairs.
 
(quoted from post at 06:48:29 11/07/11) for that kind of money i would just by some weights and not have the problems you also pay $50.00 to a $100.00 more every time the tire dealer has to fix a tire just to pump that crap
Click to expand...

So where do you add the weights after you have two pair inside and a full set outside? I have come across many tractors with full sets of weights PLUS loaded tires. And I bet that most didn't add them all with out first trying it with less.
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:11 11/07/11)
buickanddeere
Maybe some people have there own way of wanting to do something.

I compare it to you trying to talk forum posters into buying a new instead of used tractor when you won't/can't buy a new tractor yourself. If a new tractor is so much more economical then what's holding you back??
Click to expand...

Jim, Jim, Jim. The topic is the use of an aggressive salt solution. What pray tell does a rant about new vs. used have to do with the topic ?
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:24 11/07/11) Bellyaching/complaining/denigrating.....Cacl? Worrying about a rim rusting through? Like it happens overnight? No, it happens because of poor maintenance! Neglect. Cheapest source of weight, most pounds per gallon....that"s why farmers used it......been used for almost 80 years, cuz it works! Things don"t fix themselves- if a tire is leaking fluid, it needs to be fixed. Rocket science? I don"t think so.
Click to expand...

How much extra weight ?
 
(quoted from post at 17:28:53 11/07/11)
(quoted from post at 06:48:29 11/07/11) for that kind of money i would just by some weights and not have the problems you also pay $50.00 to a $100.00 more every time the tire dealer has to fix a tire just to pump that crap
Click to expand...

So where do you add the weights after you have two pair inside and a full set outside? I have come across many tractors with full sets of weights PLUS loaded tires. And I bet that most didn't add them all with out first trying it with less.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a case of over balasting. Any idea what the ideal weight per HP is ?
 
B&D- I can only speak of what I have seen on what I have been around, but I by no means am an expert at everything like you claim to be. I simply had an oportunity to take a picture of rims on a tractor that we've had on the farm for 15-18 years give or take, and the rim on the tire that didn't leak looks great. Even the one that leaked, if the whole rim would have been submerged, it would have been fine.

We have never had a tire leak internally without showing some sign on the outside, always around the valve stem. I think where the trouble begins is if you have a careless tire guy, who doesn't rinse off the rim when broke down for a repair, and clean out the tire good to remove any residue. A little left inside, but without an air leak to push the fluid out around the stem, will stay inside the rim and rot it out.

Our 1855 let fluid through the sidewall about 3 or 4 of years ago while chopping 1st crop, and it was on the inside of the tire so the tractor did get sprayed. We rinsed it off and haven't had any trouble with rust on it. Put new tires on the tractor and had the old ones mounted on the duals.

My brother has an Oliver 550 that had bad rims. It was a neglected and beat up old loader tractor, and of course the tires were leaking around the valve stem. Being that the tires weren't matched, they were the hard to find 26" size, the rims were rotted, and the tires were worn, he just bought new everything in the 28" size and moved on. Filled them back up with fluid too.

The only one on our farm without fluid anymore is my 1600 (other tha the 1755 which doesn't have any tires). I rebuilt it, had it painted by my brother, and put new tires on. Since it's no longer a heavy puller it doesn't need the fluid anymore. Again, it had fluid in it's tires from day 1 and that was for over 40 years before I had it sucked out. Now it pulls the grain drill and corn planter, and maybe some other chores like raking hay and hauling some manure.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
(quoted from post at 22:47:28 11/07/11) Jim, Jim, Jim. The topic is the use of an aggressive salt solution. What pray tell does a rant about new vs. used have to do with the topic ?
Click to expand...

Well Glen you not buying a new tractor after all your preaching has nothing to do with this thread. I just thought I'd try changing the subject to something different same as I've seen you do time and again. :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 23:30:54 11/07/11) B&D- I can only speak of what I have seen on what I have been around, but I by no means am an expert at everything like you claim to be. I simply had an oportunity to take a picture of rims on a tractor that we've had on the farm for 15-18 years give or take, and the rim on the tire that didn't leak looks great. Even the one that leaked, if the whole rim would have been submerged, it would have been fine.

We have never had a tire leak internally without showing some sign on the outside, always around the valve stem. I think where the trouble begins is if you have a careless tire guy, who doesn't rinse off the rim when broke down for a repair, and clean out the tire good to remove any residue. A little left inside, but without an air leak to push the fluid out around the stem, will stay inside the rim and rot it out.

Our 1855 let fluid through the sidewall about 3 or 4 of years ago while chopping 1st crop, and it was on the inside of the tire so the tractor did get sprayed. We rinsed it off and haven't had any trouble with rust on it. Put new tires on the tractor and had the old ones mounted on the duals.

My brother has an Oliver 550 that had bad rims. It was a neglected and beat up old loader tractor, and of course the tires were leaking around the valve stem. Being that the tires weren't matched, they were the hard to find 26" size, the rims were rotted, and the tires were worn, he just bought new everything in the 28" size and moved on. Filled them back up with fluid too.

The only one on our farm without fluid anymore is my 1600 (other tha the 1755 which doesn't have any tires). I rebuilt it, had it painted by my brother, and put new tires on. Since it's no longer a heavy puller it doesn't need the fluid anymore. Again, it had fluid in it's tires from day 1 and that was for over 40 years before I had it sucked out. Now it pulls the grain drill and corn planter, and maybe some other chores like raking hay and hauling some manure.

Donovan from Wisconsin
Click to expand...

I not saying that way back when. That your pappy, Grand Papy and Great Grand pappy were stupid for using calcium Chloride ballast. I'm just saying today, many decades later. There are other and better alternatives.
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:00 11/07/11)
(quoted from post at 17:28:53 11/07/11)
(quoted from post at 06:48:29 11/07/11) for that kind of money i would just by some weights and not have the problems you also pay $50.00 to a $100.00 more every time the tire dealer has to fix a tire just to pump that crap
Click to expand...

So where do you add the weights after you have two pair inside and a full set outside? I have come across many tractors with full sets of weights PLUS loaded tires. And I bet that most didn't add them all with out first trying it with less.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a case of over balasting. Any idea what the ideal weight per HP is ?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you need to hit the road and start spreading the message about over ballasting and train all these over ballasted farmers in the ideal weight per horsepower.
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:30 11/08/11)
(quoted from post at 19:51:00 11/07/11)
(quoted from post at 17:28:53 11/07/11)
(quoted from post at 06:48:29 11/07/11) for that kind of money i would just by some weights and not have the problems you also pay $50.00 to a $100.00 more every time the tire dealer has to fix a tire just to pump that crap
Click to expand...

So where do you add the weights after you have two pair inside and a full set outside? I have come across many tractors with full sets of weights PLUS loaded tires. And I bet that most didn't add them all with out first trying it with less.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a case of over balasting. Any idea what the ideal weight per HP is ?
Click to expand...

If you don't believe me ask those who have actually tested a tractor on the track and i the lab.
Too much ballast and the tractor wastes power and fuel rolling it's self over the field with the extra friction. Soil compaction increases and crop yield decreases.

Sounds like you need to hit the road and start spreading the message about over ballasting and train all these over ballasted farmers in the ideal weight per horsepower.
Click to expand...
 
Ask someone who's actually used the tractor IN THE FIELD what all that "lab and track testing" means: Diddley squat.

Real world farming is about getting the job done, not worrying about the .0000000000001% yield increase you'll get by spending $185,000 on a new MFWD tractor so you don't need to ballast the tires.
 
(quoted from post at 17:03:24 11/08/11) Ask someone who's actually used the tractor IN THE FIELD what all that "lab and track testing" means: Diddley squat.

Real world farming is about getting the job done, not worrying about the .0000000000001% yield increase you'll get by spending $185,000 on a new MFWD tractor so you don't need to ballast the tires.
Click to expand...

What ever credibility you used to have went out the window with those numbers. That's an indication you have left logic and facts behind. And are instead feeling insulted, then angry and vindictive during your emotional rant.
 
I"m still using the same rims on my WD-45 Allis that my Dad and I installed in 1958 with CaCl in new Monkey Wards tires.
I did have to replace the tires about 5 years ago and the rims had some minor rust which I cleaned as best as I could and painted with Rustoleum "Damp-Proof" primer. I refilled the tubes with CaCL as ballast. The original valve stem holes are still there and there are no "extra" holes in the rims. B & D is right; there are better (but more expensive) alternatives today and as much as I respect his intelligence, I find his arrogance sometimes a bit offensive.
Remember, if it were not for "ordinary" people like us, he would not "appear" to be so "extraordinary"!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Wider Rims/Tires for Ford 2000
Replies
19
Views
788
sotxbill
S
C
Tires
Replies
3
Views
337
jon f mn
jon f mn
E
How much liquid ballast for Ford 8N tires?
Replies
8
Views
559
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
T
grandpa Love
Nice Farmall A
Replies
16
Views
1K
KEB in GCMS
K
2
tire trouble
Replies
6
Views
278
paul
P
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top