Simple Question about steel roofing

Ryan - WI · Jan 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 22:00:27 01/02/12) I"m putting metal roofing on an addition on my barn. My question is do you put the screws in the valley of the metal or the top and chance crushing it. ( the addition is souly for the storage of my tractors) Thanks!

They go in the valleys. If you put them on the tops it bends down and doesn't seal well with the rubber washer.

meanmtn · Jan 2, 2012

I"m putting metal roofing on an addition on my barn. My question is do you put the screws in the valley of the metal or the top and chance crushing it. ( the addition is souly for the storage of my tractors) Thanks!

kyhayman · Jan 2, 2012

Screws with o rings go on the flat part to ensure a tight seal, dont crush or cut the o rings. Nails without o rings go on the peaks.

02 · Jan 2, 2012

In the valley.And when tightening,watch the washer carefully until it starts to "donut" then stop.

JMOR · Jan 2, 2012

(quoted from post at 22:57:53 01/02/12)

(quoted from post at 22:00:27 01/02/12) I"m putting metal roofing on an addition on my barn. My question is do you put the screws in the valley of the metal or the top and chance crushing it. ( the addition is souly for the storage of my tractors) Thanks!

Click to expand...

They go in the valleys. If you put them on the tops it bends down and doesn't seal well with the rubber washer.

Metal roofing" is not descriptive enough. If R-panel or similar, then read the mfgr recommendations. If you are using plain old corrugated tin, then the correct answer is neither...........put them on the side/slope. why? On peak the crush dimple collects water to leak around the fastener, if in valley, it is flooded with water, whereas on the side/slope , water drains off rapidly with no dimple to pool.

Dachshund · Jan 2, 2012

Depends....
If it is the "corregated" type, they go on the ridge, not the valley.....

dabees · Jan 2, 2012

And use the best screws you can get. Cheapo screws can have unnessary o-ring failures.

Stephen Newell · Jan 2, 2012

I use screws with rubber seal washers for metal roof and I put them on the valley of the tin. On wood framing I use at least 2" long screws. I also use tacky tape where the sheets overlap and use lap screws to fasten the metal together.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 3, 2012

On corrigated I put them on top and watch the rubber ring so it is not squashed, In the same place as the roofing nail.Consider the valley is for the water and don"t want any holes there..

Texasmark1 · Jan 3, 2012

I was taught crowns on corrugated roofing using fat headed galvanized nails....after years of that and having wind blow the tin off after the barn got some years on it, I now use screws, wood for wood and metal drilling for metal purlins. Put in the valley and screw in till the rubber just starts to pooch out. Those stay put and don't leak.

Mark

LJD · Jan 3, 2012

I'm not sure I understand the question. The exposed part of the valley should be fully backed by wood. It can't support weight between 24" centers like the ribbed roofing. You can screw it anyone it needs it. I use treated lumber for my valleys, although it's not really necessary. Using treated lumber requires chemical resistant screws. I use stainless-steel, they don't cost much more then the standard screws.

Jason the Red · Jan 3, 2012

Put them on the ridge, and use a cordless drill with a clutch to ensure the rubber gasket does not get squeezed too tight and also to prevent the sheet metal from denting.

48C-MAN · Jan 3, 2012

I have built polebarns for 3 diff. companies and for myself they all use ring shank nails on the flats with silicone Not rubber washers. Rubber will break down with the uv light over time causing leaks. Believe it or not I have been shown how screws actually back out over time with cold to hot transitions in temp. If you are set on using screws put them on the peaks, if nails use the flats.

rocko · Jan 3, 2012

Been in construction long time and seen a lot more nails loosen up in wood than screws backing out by turning, course wood is usually spruce so soft. if nails are best what type do you suggest? ringed? spiral wound? rocko

dhermesc · Jan 3, 2012

Agreed.

The 20 year old tin shed on our old place had about 100 nails that had backed out and fallen to the ground. I know the number because I bought a box of 50 roofing screws to fill the holes and had to go back for more and thought I was goign to have go back a third time. Once I had refilled the holes with screws the shed was a lot quieter.

rrlund · Jan 3, 2012

The pros that built my haybarn put the screws between the ribs. They stacked the steel and predrilled the holes instead of socking them through the steel with the drill. Gave a great looking even pattern to the whole thing. Didn't have chalkline marks all over it that way either.

mkirsch · Jan 3, 2012

I've done it both ways, and I've seen it done both ways.

The Morton shed built in 1980 has rubber-washered ring-shank nails on the peaks of the ribs.

Every steel roof we put up from 1980 until 2003, we put nails through the peaks of the ribs.

Put up another building in 2003. This time they screwed through the flats next to the ribs.

I don't think it makes much difference.

48C-MAN · Jan 3, 2012

Ringed, another reason was due to the fact that most roofs up in MN don't see 10 yrs old due to hail.

Texasmark1 · Jan 3, 2012

I don't use treated wood on the roof.....why? Nails back out over time. Screws don't. Took a few 10's of years to learn that.

Mark

farmer boy · Jan 3, 2012

Put the screw on the rib. The guy that previously owned this farm put the screws in the valley and the older barns he didn't build have them in the rib. Guess which ones leak? Not the older ones.

Simple Question about steel roofing

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