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rear wheel drive vehicles??

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hey, anyone where it gets cold drive something small with rear wheel drive?? My little Kia sportage just won't quit but hates the cold when it comes to moving the first hundred yards or so. Starts up like a new one every time, but in temps 20 or below it just hates to take off. Feels like you have a bungy cord hooked on the bumper. Get it rolling good and the gears all turning and it's OK til it sets and gets cold again overnite.... It's a 97 model. Anyone else notice this with anything compareable they drive??? When the temps get back above freezing, all is fine. Maybe it's not just the rear wheel drive, but I never had this with anything else I drove (all front WD)...
 
I don't think it has anything to do whether it's front wd or rwd. Some vehicles are just naturally cold blooded.... I've had it happen with both.
 

Just figured the extra batch of gear oil to get moving... Tractor is the same way... Could be I notice it more cause all the power that little 2 liter motor is kickin out :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 06:43:34 02/06/12) Our Suburban acts like that when it's about -30F for a mile or so but after that it's fine.

Rick
Click to expand...

It doesn't run bad, just like driving in about a foot of sand??? This one don't like to warm up when it's below freezing out also... Got the radiator almost completely covered and still takes forever....30 degrees and it warms right up...
 
My guess would be that it may be time to think about synthetic gear lube for the differential and maybe a fluid change in the transmission.

Rear wheel vs. front wheel has nothing to do with being sluggish in the cold. You simply have thick fluids and they slow the drivetrain down.

Have you checked your tire pressures when it's cold before you start out? Dropping the temp will reduce air pressures too.
 
Replacing the oil in both axles, transfer case and transmission (if
std) with synthetic oil makes a huge difference. One of our little
suzuki 4wd's had to be in low range to get moving at -30 C, switch to
synthetic and she's just like a summer day in terms of getting
rolling.
 
Automatic or manual? If its an automatic you might want to make sure it has the correct fluid in it or look at a transmission flush. If its a manual and has heavier fluid than it should it probably wouldn't go into gear - but it might.

I don't know about Kia manual transmissions but many other "imports" use automatic transmission fluid instead of 80W like most people are used to seeing in gear boxes. My little Ranger I had used a Mitsubushi 5 speed - it needed ATF fluid but was accidently filled with 80W after a bearing was replaced. It worked fine that summer but once it got cool the oil thickened and it wouldn't go into gear - the tolerances wear too tight for the thicker fluid.
 
Kia Sportage, are you sure it's RWD?

Usually those compact SUVs are FWD with rear wheel assist.

I know when the Hyundai SantaFe came to the USA the 2WD version was FWD, and the SantaFe is the same as a Sportage.
 
I used to have a 1952 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup. I drive it to work for 4-5 years. It was a straight six with a four speed manual. When it was real cold you had to hold the brakes when you let the clutch out or the cold gear oil would make it roll along. Parking brake never did work. So I always carried a 4x4 wood block. It would just about crawl up over it when it was real cold.

Set some 85-90 gear oil in a cup in the freezer. Then take it out after a while. It will almost be a solid.

Like some others posted this is where a good synthetic gear oil will help. They stay much more viscous at low temperatures.
 
I drive a 1981 Ford, 300 inch 6 with a 4 speed. It starts really well even in cold weather, but will pull itself half way out of the garage when I let the clutch out if it is below freezing, this is with the transmission in neutral. I usually let it warm up for about 5 minutes. Ellis
 
Time to read the manual on suggessted lubricants by temperature. Example:10-30 motoroil for manual transmission GM late 80s front drive in cold weather. Use of type F-early Ford- in GM automatic transmission for northern states winter emergency vehicle use. The synthetics as suggested. Use of Dextron auto tranny fluid in manual transmissions cold weather. Use of type F in Harley trannies in cold weather sidecar rigs. Mitsubishi had some winter use recommendations for tranny and rear ends- Kia from Korea may have used same basic drive, some of the Chrysler badged vehicles had Mitsubishi engines and drivetrains and the winter stiffness noted here in Wisconsin at times- the manuals for those drive trains have tranny oil change intervals 25000 miles, 5 engine oil change or winter temperatures below zero extended time or symptoms of sluggishness. What kind of lube do you have in it now?- whatever it came with since you haven't change it or whatever shop put in in summer from large barrel? Have fun, use as excuse for heated garage. RN
 
Had a '69 Chevy K20 that had a broken tooth in a gear, so instead of filling it with 90 weight, I filled it with STP, which is 200 weight. Smooth as silk when it was warm out. First off, rarely used 1st (Granny) gear, unless transfer case was 4L, and that would have the engine turning about 6,000 RPMs and would be doing about 3 MPH, but could walk its way out of stuck while idling. So gears used were 2, 3, 4. Try shifting a tranny filled with STP when gets below 20 degrees out. At that temp, 200 weight STP becomes superglue mixed with more superglue. I needed the workout anyway. By the time forced the stick from 2 over and up to 3, lost so much speed had force it back over and down to 2 and start all over. About the first ten miles down the road would be shifting from 2 back to 2, and then from 2 back to 2 many more times. Come to think of it, I think it might have been 2 that had the broken tooth in the first place. Eventually warmed up enough could get through the gears. I never sould have sold that truck. 292 inline six, and Dana 70's front and back.

Good luck.

Mark
 
My friends Dakota would do that in the mornings. He had a rear brake stuck. Make sure that isn't the case. Go out in the AM and try to push it in Neutral. If it doesn't move, jack up one wheel at a time til you find it. His was the passenger side rear. It was stuck so tight that I didn't have to stop the tire to get the lugs off. Getting the drum off was quite a bear.

Aaron
 
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