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Cab Heater

T

TimWafer

Member
656cab.jpg

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I finally got the cab mounts finished this week and got the cab on my 656 diesel. Need to make some filler plates yet and wire it up. I also want to get the heater plumbed in. Where are the recommend places to tie the hoses into the system? Should I put a valve at each location? I want to flush and pressure test the heater core before I hook it up.
Tim
 
Personally, I would put in a a quality ball valve that would give a straight through passage of the fluid. Whenever I do an new installation, I use ball valves. Whenever I don't like a gate valve or washer valve, I replace it with a ball valve. Both gate valve and washer valves restrict flow, so a ball valve is much better.
 
I agree with Dick on ball valves.
Disclaimer- I have no IH experience.
All of my pieces of cab equipment have a valve on a heater hose near the engine. I have never found it necessary to use them, since my in-cab shut-offs work.
I would take the hot coolant off the top of the engine, at or near the thermostat housing.
I would return the coolant into the water pump.
Sometimes there will be a "boss" in a casting(thermostat housing, or water pump) that can be drilled and tapped. That makes a much neater installation than -say for example- putting a tee in place of a temp. sending unit, etc.
Sometimes this can be accomplished by simply bypassing the "bypass" hose with the heater hoses.
 
Hottest and highest pressure water to supply the heater
core. That would be located on the engine side of the
thermostat(s).
Return from the heater core would be to lowest pressure
location, the water pump inlet/lower rad hose.
I've seen add on heater cores plumbed to some applications
with no delta P and/or no delta T. Then puzzled looks why the
heater doesn't t work.
 
Usually you can get the hot supply from the thermostat housing(engine side). Most have a plug you can remove and put in a nipple. Then I usually return them to the block drain location on the side of the block. I usually tee it and still have the drain there.

As for shut off valves I would just put a ball valve in the line at a convenient location. If you want you can get them that are built into the fittings that have the hose barb on them. You can put them at the hot supply and cold return. They are not cheap. Most better real parts stores can order them. If you can't find them you can also go to CIH and have them look at the factory cab setup on the 66 series tractors. They used them in the heater supply lines.
 
Hot pressurized coolant should be tapped below the stat"s valve/seat on the engine side. instead on the rad side of the stat. Don"t to wait for the stat to open before obtaining can heat and more pressure to flow coolant to cab hx
 
(quoted from post at 02:37:26 09/28/12) You will only have a thermosiphon system that way. Best return it to the water pump so it circulates.
Click to expand...

Not on any engine. I have seen the engine side of the thermostat is right above the water pump. So it will be pushing the coolant. This is how all of the Year-Round cabs I have taken off where plumbed.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:05 09/29/12)
(quoted from post at 02:37:26 09/28/12) You will only have a thermosiphon system that way. Best return it to the water pump so it circulates.
Click to expand...

Not on any engine. I have seen the engine side of the thermostat is right above the water pump. So it will be pushing the coolant. This is how all of the Year-Round cabs I have taken off where plumbed.
Click to expand...

That's the same way I attached the heater hoses way back when I installed Y-A-R & Hiniker cabs.
 
You connected the cab heaters thermosyphon or connected
the heaters to use hot pressurized coolant?
In most parts of Texas and the south, few operators would
feel the difference.
Around here the "just prior to the stat" and " water pump
inlet" is the only way to obtain early heat and enough heat to
clear the cab windows.
 
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