damper in stove pipe (feedback)

I built my shop stove out of a furnace 275 gal oil tank. It has 2 baffles that run the length minus a foot at opposite ends with 4x6 tube between them and a fan behind. Really puts the heat out.

The first winter I ran it with the damper partly closed and the space between the tubes plugged with soot. I hadn't made provisions for cleanout so I cut a hole with the torch. That ignited the soot. My stovepipe turned red hot, thought I was going to lose my shop but it went out while I was getting a hose. Haven't used a damper since, no more problems.
 
Yeah I know. I didn't feel like chiming in while all the know it alls were telling you the horrible technicalities of this 250 year old one moving part invention.
I get a kick out of how- in the dark, the pipe will be black above the flap, and red hot under it! Got to be careful with it, but yeah, the best 5 euros you will ever put into a woodstove...
 
When its windy outside, mine will be wide open the majority of the time.

11471.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 10:24:53 10/12/12) The OP:

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=951030&highlight=

If anyone besides me is wondering, it's the ticket........ 6 bucks and about 20 minutes and it's like a brand new stove. Room heats up fast and [i:cbdd59f46b][b:cbdd59f46b]instead of a day or two to heat up the ceramic tiles that store/radiate the heat[/b:cbdd59f46b][/i:cbdd59f46b] more comfortable they start feeling warm after a couple hours....... I'd say it's a real good investment :roll:

Thanks.....

That $6 damper is gonna ruin a expensive heater. Heating it up that fast goes against everything they were designed for. Unless it was poorly designed/built, you are going to overheat it (inside). When that happens, the firebrick will break down and burn away. Once you do that, you have to tear it apart and rebuild the guts of it. Ever build a ship in a bottle? Its kinda like that. In the beginning, you convince yourself that the best way to go is just go in and replace what is needed, you just have to take out a few bad brick and replace them afterall. By the time you are done, you will be certain that it would have been best to just take apart the whole heater and rebuild it from scratch (and you will have been right 80% of the time).

You could also be creating some creosote problems down the line but its pretty difficult to explain via the web, and I cant say for sure you will have an issue with it without seeing the heater. The potential is high though.

My best advice would be for you to take some time and learn how to use the heater before you ruin it. Its clear from all the responces in both threads that nobody else knows the kind of heater you have. As I understand it, they are not that uncommon over there but in America, they are rare as hens teeth. Just the hippies and energy cheapskates have them here. Expensive too, a used pickup truck for just a simple version and it goes up from there.

Bottom line: A damper is [b:cbdd59f46b][i:cbdd59f46b]NOT[/i:cbdd59f46b][/b:cbdd59f46b] the answer on a masonry heater.
 
(quoted from post at 18:28:32 10/12/12)
(quoted from post at 10:24:53 10/12/12) The OP:

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=951030&highlight=

If anyone besides me is wondering, it's the ticket........ 6 bucks and about 20 minutes and it's like a brand new stove. Room heats up fast and [i:3dc72353af][b:3dc72353af]instead of a day or two to heat up the ceramic tiles that store/radiate the heat[/b:3dc72353af][/i:3dc72353af] more comfortable they start feeling warm after a couple hours....... I'd say it's a real good investment :roll:

Thanks.....

That $6 damper is gonna ruin a expensive heater. Heating it up that fast goes against everything they were designed for. Unless it was poorly designed/built, you are going to overheat it (inside). When that happens, the firebrick will break down and burn away. Once you do that, you have to tear it apart and rebuild the guts of it. Ever build a ship in a bottle? Its kinda like that. In the beginning, you convince yourself that the best way to go is just go in and replace what is needed, you just have to take out a few bad brick and replace them afterall. By the time you are done, you will be certain that it would have been best to just take apart the whole heater and rebuild it from scratch (and you will have been right 80% of the time).

You could also be creating some creosote problems down the line but its pretty difficult to explain via the web, and I cant say for sure you will have an issue with it without seeing the heater. The potential is high though.

My best advice would be for you to take some time and learn how to use the heater before you ruin it. Its clear from all the responces in both threads that nobody else knows the kind of heater you have. As I understand it, they are not that uncommon over there but in America, they are rare as hens teeth. Just the hippies and energy cheapskates have them here. Expensive too, a used pickup truck for just a simple version and it goes up from there.

Bottom line: A damper is [b:3dc72353af][i:3dc72353af]NOT[/i:3dc72353af][/b:3dc72353af] the answer on a masonry heater.

This is just a simple version of the real thing :roll: Just a closed woodstove with a ceramic tile box/cabinet around it. Not as dangerous (easy to ruin) as the real ones. Chimney sweep comes 3 times a year and I usually do the light and mirror look in between. Now that I can keep the heat in, this stove will burn primarily coal...........
 
(quoted from post at 20:44:59 10/12/12) This is just a simple version of the real thing :roll: Just a closed woodstove with a ceramic tile box/cabinet around it.

Never mind, a damper should be fine on that... I thought you were talking a real masonry heater when you mentioned tile that held the heat and slowly radiated it to the room. Carry on.
 

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