PenEtraiting oils

 

 
I just received this from a friend. It sounds like something we all should know.
 Walt
 
Penetrating Oils
 
Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
This actually works well, power-steering fluid also works as well as trans fluid!
 
C

That is either inch pounds or they used very large bolts in the test.

The thing I have found with Kroil It don't seem to take as much and a can last longer for me anyway . The one not on the list that I like 1/2 price of Kroil Is DeepCreep made by sea foam

In the real world, most people don't even give the penetrants time to work.

They spritz the bolt, slap a wrench on it, twist it off, and blame the product.

Comments please on using the AFT-Acitone mix in an engine where the pistons are stuck.

I have found that spray can carburetor cleaner works better and faster than most anything, even Kroil and Liquid Wrench.

They did not try GIBBS brand!! Spray it on a
2" bolt that a 3 ft pipe wrench would not turn
and in 1 hr. it unscrewed itself. If you don't
believe it I can show you the pipe wrench.

I really like the ATF-Acetone mix! I do a lot of plastic laminate, I spray my flush cut bit bearing with it all day long! The Acetone cleans it, the ATF lubes it! I don't like the mix sometimes because it is not under pressure. Hard to get it into certain areas without pressure!

I use pb blaster when I have to -

but more often than not - heat is the quickest, easiest, most surefire solution.

No waiting, just get the nut red hot and it comes right off.

(quoted from post at 12:04:50 11/10/12) Comments please on using the AFT-Acitone mix in an engine where the pistons are stuck.

Click to expand...

It doesn't work. Not in your lifetime anyhow.

The only problem I've found with the acetone/atf mix is that the atf settles and you have to keep shaking your squirt bottle.

(quoted from post at 14:42:59 11/10/12) In the real world, most people don't even give the penetrants time to work.

They spritz the bolt, slap a wrench on it, twist it off, and blame the product.

Click to expand...

Yep. Multiple applications and time between them is what you need. It's not like it rusted on there overnight -- so don't expect it to come off in 20 seconds, lol.

Otherwise, get a torch. 8)

That is the formula that OLD has been telling you about for a long time. and yes it works on stuck engines.

Me I leave out the acetone and just use ATF straight and have been for over a decade and yes it works well and better then most stuff does

You are a good candidate for this: Rechargeable spray can. Put what you want in the aluminum can, charge with air pressure and lube away. It's Grainger part # 4F965