Can this be fixed?

This crack was there for awhile but now it's a leaker. Perhaps the cold.
Can this crack be fixed somehow?
Thanks
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If it's cast iron, the crack probably can be brazed. Then you may need to braze a fitting into the hole to eliminate relying on distorted pipe threads to seal. If the carb is pot metal I'm not sure if it can be fixed.
 
Our company tossed out a hydraulic valve with a crack like that one. I welded it and it is still working for me.
SDE
 
(quoted from post at 01:00:39 01/05/13) Not the best but if all else fails JB Weld to the rescue

+1. I'd clean the paint off the boss all around & find a bit of ally tube that would fit tightly around it. (Bore a piece of aluminium if you have a lathe) Then remove the fitting & grease the thread, screw it back in & fill the crack with JB Weld & smother the boss with it too, then tap on your ally tube. Wipe off any JBW that oozes out & you should be good to go. A bit of new paint & some thread sealer on the fitting so you don't have to tighten it too much & Robert's your father's brother!
 
I had a 300 Farmall carb that did that this winter but it had two cracks, so I got a different carb top from a member of this website and now it does not leak. With one crack I think you would have a better chance.
Zach
 
Where are you? I could probly fix that. Or find a good welder nearby and have them braze it.
 
I would clean the paint off the carb, and mike the diameter of the cracked area. Then I would machine a sleeve, a few thousandths smaller than the mike measurement average, for the ID. I'd make it about 1/8-3/16" thick on the wall. Then grind any deformation near the crack, and heat the sleeve cherry red, install, and let cool. Put the fitting in with pipe dope, or permatex #2. It's really not that high of a pressure, just gravity fed fuel, maybe 4-5 psi. My guess is the fitting got tightened too much, to line up the line, don't repeat that.
 
Is that a Marvel-Schebler on an AC? I have a Zenith on an AC WF with brazing in the same area. Doesn't leak.
 
An epoxy patch or gas tank sealer will also work, as long as its made for gas.
I used to live in Zion, IL. Nice area there.
 
Last one I fixed with a problem like that I used JB weld on after cleaning it up real good and that was about 5 plus years ago and still holding. I unscrewed the fitting and then use JB weld on the threads and then also filled in around the fitting. Of course the best fix would be t find a top for that carb which is not all that hard o do depending on what carb/tractor you have.
 
First, drill a small hole at the end of the crack. Then pull the crack together with a c clamp. V the crack with a grinding wheel to allow for the braze material. Once it's brazed you can file it down and paint it and no one will ever know it's been repaired. Use some thread sealer on the threads.
 
(quoted from post at 21:59:04 01/04/13) First, drill a small hole at the end of the crack. Then pull the crack together with a c clamp. V the crack with a grinding wheel to allow for the braze material. Once it's brazed you can file it down and paint it and no one will ever know it's been repaired. Use some thread sealer on the threads.

+10000

Here is the best advice thus far.
 
I left my email open. I've done a couple of projects like that where people ship the part to me, I fix it and send it back. I would think that would get close to the same price for a replacement tho. Unless that one is special for some reason.
 
BTDT, use a gas tank repair kit. Clean off the paint grind out a small V on the crack with a file or what ever. Unravel a thread from the mat that comes in the kit, use the thread as thread tape.(Covered with epoxy) Cover the whole thing with the epoxy,put the 90deg in the carb and make sure to get clocked right because it is never going to turn again. Wait two days and you are done, mine has held for 10 years.
 
Absolutely. I was thinking similar, but forgot about drilling the small hole at the end of the crack to stop it, and that's the most important part. You nailed it.

Mark
 
after this is fixed. get a straight fitting and a 90 to get back to your line...then if it got tight you would not have to go an extra half around to work... look at 2404 and 6500 in attachment..
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