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Old but good 70s vintage 100-140HP tractors. Case 1170??

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I am about to seal the deal on an old 1170 with factory front loader. It is an 8sp manual, comes with duals, cab, air, 5200hrs, engine built 400hrs(10yrs ago) ago with new clutch, throwout, etc.

I am mostly trying to learn about this 1170 because I have a LOT riding on it working right for me. I am a mechanic but I don't have time to be broke down right now. My main concern is repairs in the engine or splitting the tractor.

I have also looked at IH tractors and I felt they were a little more refined or at least the ones I looked at but stumbled into this 1170 and think the guy is taking pity on my situation. I am not real sure what the tractor is worth but I guess the front loader really changes the tractor prices.

So, if I go pull a 20ft tandem with a 70s vintage tractor on 40 acres, annually, am I asking too much of it? Other than that, the rest is easy running a baler, swather, bale picking, etc.
 
Can't speak to those,but if you want one you won't have to split to put a clutch in and has a bulletproof transmission and rearend,hard to beat a White 2-135.
 
If you're only doing 40 acres, I'd swap that 20 foot disk off for about a 14 footer, and get a 60 HP tractor instead of the 1170. Unless you're getting a deal on the 1170, then I'd still swap the disk off for a smaller one, and let it loaf through the job.
 
I have heard of the Whites several times and do sound like good tractors. I am not yet sure who bought who, etc, and if parts are around for them.

I really only "need" about 80HP with remotes for this venture but I also need to pull a disc, spray, etc and the loader will certainly come in handy. I have other jobs for it. I had the notion to remove the end discs on my 20fter which would make it an 18ft. It is all about getting the job done fast!!

The 1170 is in the $7k area. I figure it could do the job easily and have enough tractor to expand?
 
Once owned a 1175 Case-pulled a 20ft. Krause disc on a lot more acres than that-no problem. Will use a lot less fuel than other tractors mentioned here.
 
the 1170/1175 were basicly bullet proof, the outboard planetairys reduced trans load and made them a pulling beast, the 451 engine as one other posted said is very good on fuel, as to neededing to split it it has a heavy duty clutch and even with a loader I have seen them run 5000 plus hrs with no problem and if you do they are not bad to split at all, of course if you abuse it leave your foot resting on it then it won't last that long but that goes with any clutch, the front axle in a 1170 was heavier than any other brand made in that time period I have run a repair shop for the last 25 years and was a Case dealer before that and I can say I have done very few clutch jobs on 1170/1175 tractors compared to other compariable tractors, I am not putting down the other ones I am just saying the Case has a bigger clutch to take the HP better, you chose what you buy all I am saying is a 5000 hr 1170 will last you many years, as to a 20 foot disc, if you are talking a tandeum disc yes it will pull it with power to spare, if you are talking a offset 12-14 foot would be in order cnt
 
40 acers a day is nothing for a 1170 with 20' disc. Acording to my Rapid Farming Calculator, if you put it in 5th gear and you loose 1mph through wheel slip, and 17.5% for turning on headlands etc, (field efficiency) you can cover 80 plus acers in an 8hr period.
Top scale set to determin acers in 8hrs.
Lower set for acers/hr.
a106854.jpg

a106855.jpg
 
That's where I was lost on an 1170. Never saw one. There were a LOT of Cases sold around here but I only knew of one 1175,no 1170s. But I do remember that the 1175 had the outboard planetaries. Ya,I never heard a complaint on that 1175. It still lives just over west here a few miles.
 
I would either go with a 2-135 or another similar White or I would downsize, lose the 20' disc and go smaller and get a smaller tractor. Have to say no one ever went wrong with a Oliver 50 or 55 series. Mike
 
I agree! Sell the 20' disc, take that $ and the 7k for the tractor and buy a more practical tractor and a whole line of equipment for the 40 acres and maybe have some cash left.
 
Great, it does sound like the 1170/1175 were solid machines which is good to know. Let's talk price. One says I am paying too much. I guess in some respect I am not getting a song but based on other data around here, it seems in line.

Anyone else have an opinion here? Cab, air, factory front lift, duals, fresh engine and clutch?
 
Try buying a 4020 w/loader in that shape! Twice as much and not twice the tractor. I don't think you can ever lose on it at that price even if you decide to sell in a couple years. Case is cheap reliable HP right now.
 
While a smaller tractor can do just as good of a job, time can definately be a factor in deciding what to go with. I help my dad farm about 65-70 acres, so while we "could" do it with a 50 hp tractor, our power house is 105 hp. That means we can get more done in less time. I work during the week so my time to get things done is very limited. Dad does what he can during the week, but it seems most of his time is spent tending to the herd.

We have a 14' hydro-swing haybine for the same reason, over the 9' machine it replaced.

If it were me, I would absolutely go with a 100+ hp if i could. Less time in the field means more time do spend with family, friends, & hobbies.

Chances are if an 1855 Oliver has made it this far, its gonna work for a while. Most have been overhauled, and if anyone with a clue was in it they have the updates in them. That said our 1855 started getting a bad knock a few years ago. We quit running it and pulled the engine. The engine was overhauled maybe 2-300 hours before we bought it and it ran strong, but it turned out to have a mix n match of rod bolts (6 pt. and 12 pt. updated ones) and 2 pc. wrist pin bushings.

Still a good tractor, and just by observing how it ran & sounded, it prevented a ton of trouble and expense. A good operator is the first line of protection.

I would second rrlunds statement, White (and Oliver) are good cheap horsepower. Parts are still available and there is a very knowlegable base in the Oliver board.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
The white 2-155 or 2-135 are great tractors, or if you go a little
smaller the 2-105 is great and fuel efficient, the Oliver 1950s
are good along with the 1850.
 
Timeliness and good weather can be very important when baling hay, especially if you are taking vacation time off from a full time job to farm and you have damp weather. A 122 HP 1170 on a big roundbaler would allow you to put up a lot of hay in an afternoon. It would also have the hp, hydraulics and 540/1000 PTO to handle a large discmower in the future. Drive the tractor, see if you like the visibily, clutch sensitivity, shifters, speed selections and the noise level. Shift on-the-go would be handy for baling, but the clutch on one Case 1070 Powershift I drove was a little jumpy when backing wagons and the hitch visibilty was not great.

I wouldn't worry too much about the tillage, that would be more forgiving for time compared to baling. A 1070 comfortably handled an 18 foot finishing disk in plowed ground. A 1170 should be fine with a 20 foot disk and cover 10 acres an hour. A light disk with worn 20 inch blades may need to have the wings folded up to get enough weight on the blades to cut deep into sod.

1170's were only built for one year in 1970? Price depends a lot on the loader. If it's in good condition and a quick attach that can be removed/installed in 10 minutes it could be worth $2000 or more. With a nice loader $2000, snap-on duals $250-$500, and working air conditioning $500 you're looking at less then $4000 for a 120hp tractor with a decent cab.

The Nebraska Tractor Tests are a good source of information on older tractors www.tractortestlab.unl.edu . You may have to purchase the older reports online. They are detailed with: efficency tests in all the field speeds; and several pages of small print include hp, efficiency at reduced engine rpm, gear speeds, and a good description.
 
If you are going to have a Case, my neighbors think a 1170-75 is the one to have. If you are going to say pull a 6 ton fertilize buggy, or say put on anhydrous and pull a 1000 gal tank. You need a tractor this size.
 
Could you point me to a source that I can buy one of these for $4000? I have not found one yet even close to that figure. Just found a 1370 ragged out, no loader or cab, not running right for $5000.
 
(quoted from post at 18:04:30 03/14/13) I would either go with a 2-135 or another similar White or I would downsize, lose the 20' disc and go smaller and get a smaller tractor. Have to say no one ever went wrong with a Oliver 50 or 55 series. Mike
Click to expand...

That's good advice [b:812fb888a4]IF YOU HAVE A DECENT DEALER FOR PARTS![/b:812fb888a4] Round here it's about 60 miles to get decent parts and service for a White.

That Case should more than take care of you if you take care of it. The price seems to be fair for my area.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 07:20:06 03/15/13) Could you point me to a source that I can buy one of these for $4000? I have not found one yet even close to that figure. Just found a 1370 ragged out, no loader or cab, not running right for $5000.
Click to expand...

A lot of these guys are dreamin' when they throw out these low-low prices, or tell you a price is too high.
 
I appreciate all the replies. I guess I am in the camp with a few others there that this tractor really not not much oversized for 40ac since the whole idea of farming is to get the job done faster. Bigger and faster tractors were built for a reason IMO.

I also have plans to expand and buy or lease or ground. I cannot say that I would look to use this Case for more ground but I guess if the machine works great for me, I just might. I sure like powershift though. Even for 80ac though, the actual seat time is not that great so might be hard to justify another machine.

The loader is a factory Case unit that is quick detach. Has cotter pins to pull it.
 
Be careful throwing around the term "easy" when describing hay chores, you never know what cn happen. We had 2 tractors grenade motors while mowing hay. For while we swore that job was cursed. Turns out it was just bad luck.
 
I don't recall saying this process was easy but maybe you were directing that elsewhere. I for one have extreme pucker factor on haying because it is so time sensitive. I guess much of farming is but if you drop 40ac of hay only to have your tractor blow up during raking, you have SERIOUS problems.

I am a machine shop owner and know all too well about how a simple job that can run really smooth and easy, can quickly turn into a nightmare if the spindle explodes during the job. Hay farming is even more critical because you stand to lose your entire crop if things don't work right.

However, I do have a pretty vast mechanical and electrical background and try to monitor bearings and wear items carefully so as you catch them before they become a red light item. I am working on our haybine right now and my friend mentioned that a sprocket I am going to replace can probably go a bit longer. I could shave with it. I had to explain that if that mower fails in the field, this job just got 10x harder. Much easier to source that part now, replace it, and get my job done for SURE.

The good thing is if I really get in a bind, I am not above racing back to the shop to custom make a sprocket or shaft to get me going. Not quite that easy if the tractor breaks though.
 
I say go for it. I don't know jack about case but it sounds like a good deal to me. So what if it's bigger than you need right now. It's better to have a bigger horse than not enough. If you increase acres in the near future you'll be spending more money on equiptment and a bigger tractor so you just as well have a bit bigger right now for a reasonable price instead of trying to find something later. Just an opinion.
 
"Other than that, the rest is easy running a baler, swather, bale picking, etc." I was just referring to what you mentioned in your post. I know what you meant though. You're 100% right on the hay thing. When there is hay down and your broke down, the situation can turn dire in a heartbeat. I also agree with your philosophy on prevention is the best line of defense. I always keep at least 2 extra cutter bars w/ new knives on stock to slide in when I break a knife on the haybine. For me its easier to drive back in, slide the new cutter bar in, and replace the broken knife later than it is to roll around in front of the haybine smackin my skull off the reel tryin to change one in the field. Not to mention keeping just abut anything we might need for hay on stock- shear bolts, bearings, knives, twine, net, teeth, chains, belts, etc so we can keep rolling without driving an hour or more to the parts dealer.
 
Only other advice I could give you is check out the CASEIH.NH dealers near you. Make sure they can support you needs on that Case if you buy it. Couple of years ago here I would have been happy to find a White or Oliver. Now you couldn't give me one. Closest dealship changed hands. Parts are service that was great is now a joke. A tractor that you cannot gets parts for or everything has to be ordered when you have a crop to harvest can be a disaster.

Rick
 
Make sure you consider gal/hr as well. Besides the
possibility of mowing hay with a large hydra-swing because
of the need for a heavier tractor, all other parts of doing hay
require small amounts of power. Raking, tedding and baling
are not any faster with a larger horsepower tractor. Balers
only can handle so much hay put in them at once and raking
and tedding require a specific ground speed to turn or fluff
the hay to dry the best. Going to fast often leads to
windrows thrown to far to keep the green side up or leaf
shatter caused from throwing the hay to hard and fast. Gal/
hr on smaller tractors that do the same job as well could be
between 1.5-2gal/hr and larger tractors oversized for the job
may still be in the 4-5gal/hr. Even though its only 40 acres I
still would not recomend mowing it all at once anyway
because weathermen are seldom right and if you do have a
breakdown which you are bound to you should hedge your
bet with less risk of loosing all your hay. Maybe first knock
down the headlands and split the field a few times then next
time get the rest. Just my opinion, you will know your
situation best. Good luck
 
You had better check again,I don't believe any 1170-1175 ever had power shift.just reg.8 speed.At least non of my books or lit.shows it being avalable.
 
(quoted from post at 15:48:52 03/15/13) You had better check again,I don't believe any 1170-1175 ever had power shift.just reg.8 speed.At least non of my books or lit.shows it being avalable.
Click to expand...

Sorry if that came out wrong. No, the 1170 does not have powershift BUT what I was trying to say is I would rather have a tractor that had it and may eventually sell the 1170 just to get the PS trans.
 
(quoted from post at 02:43:01 03/15/13) MIKE-You must have a short memory--Don't you remember all the HOLES in the 310 Waukashau blocks????????
Click to expand...
I was meaning a 1655 not a 1750 and up, like I thats if you were to downsize your disc. I know of several with high hours not rebuilt and still working fine with 10000+ hours. Mike
 
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