Advice needed on MF Plowing

I posted earlier showing my first attempt at plowing with the MF 1155 and 880 6 bottom plow. It seemed to work okay but Im sure I could do better with the set up and operation. I have attached several pictures showing part of the plow as well as tractor controls, I need advice on these.

Am I correct in saying the adjustment nut for the rear wheel can help with setting depth at the rear of the plow?

I have now managed to adjust the plow a little toward the left which I guessing should help increase the width of the first furrow which was too narrow.

The next picture shows the auxilary control lever and valve adjustment, Ive been using this to raise and lower the rear of the plow.

The following pictures shows hydrolic control quadrant. Ive been using this to raise and lower the front of the plow and to set depth at front.I dont think Ive been using this as I should.

Havent done anything with the control selector lever and dont really know what effect this should have or where it should be set.

Last picture shows draft depth control wheel, again I havent used this.

What I need you guys to do is guide me through what you would do and how to adjust the various controls from the stage of droping the plow to getting the draft control etc operating as it should.

The last picture shows the accumulator which I attached to the hydrolics when charging the auto trips. This was then disconnected but Im not sure if needs connected all the time.

Any help or advice much appreciated.
Thanks
Bill

Bill, If I were you I would post this at the Massey forum, those guys are experts on Massey equipment.

Can't help you with the tractor hyd settings. Wrong color for me, but I can coment on the plow, as it has many similarities to the older Case 3300 series plows. The mechanical depth stop on the tail wheel is very critical to doing a good job of plowing and also critical to the operation of your draft/depth control system on your tractor. The d/d control system leverages the weight of the plow and draft weight of the soil against the tail wheel. and if that is not set correctly, nothing in the d/d system or plowing depth will be consistant.
As for the acumilator, you need to have a precharge of nitrogen in the internal bladder,(checked and charged through the valvestem) on the other end of the bottle. It has to have a minimum of 1250# of precharged nitrogen, and perhaps more depending on plowing conditions. The hose that you connect and disconnect is to charge the "closed loop" hydraulic reset system. The nitrogen blatter is an air coushion that holds the bottoms engaged in the ground. Works like a spring. When a bottom hits a rock it folds back forcing oil out of the reset cylinder and compressing the nitrogen even more. When the bottom clears the rock the nitrogen forces the oil back into the reset cylinder, returning the bottom to it;s working position. If the nitrogen precharge is low and you apply the hydraulic charge (minimum of 200# over nitogen precharge) 1450# you will colaps the bladder and when you hit a rock, there is no place for the oil to go and you will rupture a hose, break mechanical parts, or ruin the acumilator. They are becoming hard to find. We had one fail last year and managed to find one in an IH 1420 combine hyd system. The hose on the front of the bottle only needs to be connected to the tractor to charge the reset system, and then you close the turn knob tightly and disconect from the tractor. The gage in the pic should stay at 1450# min. after charging system off tractor hyds. If it doesn't hold this pressure, you got external hyd. leaks or the bladder is bad. Good luck.
Loren, the Acg.

Really appreciate the explanations you have give, its all a bit of a learning experience. Plows over here in Scotland tend to be fully mounted and reversible so no one arround here knows anything about them. The tractor and plow does however create a good deal of interest being that bit different.
I will check accumulator but Im sure the nitrogen charge is low and yes it was much higher on the gauge yesterday when I charged the hydo system so there must be a leak.
Thanks
Bill

The bolt setup on the tail wheel is for adjusting how much weight the tail wheel carries. It can affect the depth of the rear of the plow but does not set the depth. Once this bolt is set it will not have to be changed much. About the only time you will need to fine tune it is when you go from harder to softer ground to plow. When the bolt is set correctly you can raise the front of the plow and the rear will raise, too, and vice versa. If the rear of the plow goes too deep lengthen the bolt. Just the opposite if the rear of the plow doesn't want to penetrate. Mike

Hi Bill. I have had this MF 880 ,5 furrow plough for a couple of years now, and I like the way it works. In your pics I can't tell if your plough has a depth wheel, and I don't see any coulters. Anyway here are a coupleof pics of my 966IH with the MF880. Bruce

My neighbor had a 5 bottom plow with one of those accumulators on it. He hit a rock and the darn thing blew clear off the plow, found it about 50' in front on his Oliver 1750. Really gets your attention when it flies over your head on an open station tractor. The plow was traded for a spring trip the next week. Be careful with those things.

I beg to differ with you in all respect, but the tailwheel is the fulcrum point that the tractors D&D system works against for draft and depth control. If you depended on the onland gauge wheel for depth control, two things will happen. 1, the last bottom will dig deeper as the dtaft sensing raises the front of the plow, and 2, the plow will plow deaper on the right, as the gauge wheel is offset way to the left and far forward of the tail wheel. It's all about geometry and leverage points.
Loren, the Acg.

I ran the tailwheel depth bolt set a bit deep on my 880 and adjusted the depth as needed on the rolling hilly ground we had. Draft is set by placing the quadrant knob between the two dimples, then using the draft knob to set depth you want. Make sure pressure/draft/position lever is in draft. Keep an eye on the 3 hardened bolts in top of each draft leaf spring. They can break and cause loss of draft control. Had all 6 break on dad's 1100 once.

Bill, don"t know that I"d be much good to you, but I"d love to come and see your outfit, whereabouts are you?
Cheers, Ali.

Ali
Im at Auchnagatt Near Ellon about 25 m north of Aberdeen.
Bill

Hi Bruce
When I got the plow there were three culter/discs only and some of them ere damaged so I have left them off until I can find another three off something else that I can maybe match up. Do they make a much better job?
What depth are you working to, what hp is the tractor and how easily does it pull the plow? What pressure have you the accumulater set for?
thanks
Bill

From my 880 manual....
Tail wheel stopper bolt set at one inch from the bottom side of the head to the the top of the stop. (Bottom of the head to the bottom of the jam nut with a 9.5L-15 tire) I see you have a triple rib tractor tire installed of unknown size.

Tail wheel straight and inline with the furrow, no lead toward or away from the furrow wall.

Rear bottom landside is adjustable to reduce vertical movement due to furrow bottom roughness. Loosen the front two bolts that attach the landside and the eccentric bolt (square looking head)can be rotated to change the heel. In hard plowing, it may be necessary to lower the heel.

I know nothing about an 1155 Massey but I do know it is a closed center system so your accumulator is not needed but the accumulator can be used....it won't damage anything. You need other valving and hoses to eliminate the accumulator however.

Accumulator nitrogen charge...heavy soils, not many rocks..1700 psi. Normal soils and many rocks....1500 psi. Nitrogen side OK, then fill the hydraulic side to 1900 and 1700 psi respectively. (your last photo) Open the shut off valve, use your control lever to pressurize to 1900 or 1700, close the valve to trap the oil in the accumulator and place the control lever in float to depressurize the hose.

Want to see what your nitrogen charge is? Control lever in float, crack open the hydraulic shut off valve and watch the pressure. It will slowly bleed down the hydraulic side. Note when the pressure rapidly falls. This start point will be the nitrogen charge.

Your other control lever will raise/lower the tail wheel.

It may be best for me to copy my manual......email me.

Bill, I don't think I'll be nipping up this weekend then, but my sister lives in Aberdeen so the next time I'm visiting her I might head out and try to find you.

cheers, Ali.

No problem, let me when your in the area. Have you a tractor collection down in Crieff?

Bill, I have a small gathering of 5 tractors of which only two are currently running. Two years ago my dad passed away and I inherited his 135, and last year i lost my brother, and I inherited his 65 and grey fergie, they now sit alongside my 65 and 4 cylinder 35.
Do you have any more toys?
Cheers, Ali.

Hi Ali
Yes just a few, looks like you are keen on the Masseys. I have a range of machines some british from the late 40"s to the late 70"s but the ones you might be more interested in are the US Massey models. Ive got a MF95 Super, 97 two wheel drive, 97 4x4, 1130(currently seized), 1150, 1155 and the mighty 2805.
Bill