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farm related, not tractor C65 Chevy Clutch issue??

D

dmiller

Member
Hauling grain yesterday. Truck didn't want to shift. Clutch would go to the floor (felt normal) but would then stay down unless I used my foot to bring it back up.
Checked the following. Spring on pedal arm, fairly new, greased the arm swivel. A bit better, but no real change.
Tranny is full like it should be.

What next? Is there clutch fluid on this somewhere? Some adjustment that is way out. I have owned this truck for about a year now and used it maybe 20 times for hay or grain. Shifted fine when I first got it, has gotten gradually worse.
1973 C65 Chevy.
 
There maybe a spring on the clutch linkage under the truck by the bell housing. Some did. I don't remember for sure since it's been years since I worked on one.
 
when pedal stays down does truck move? is that the 350 or 366 engine? does it have the normal 1" free play in pedal? it is a manual clutch.
 
Sounds to me like the throw out bearing sleeve is very dry and sticking the the trans nose cone. If you do not fix that problem soon it will break the nose cone off of the transmission.
 
when pedal stays down does truck move? is that the 350 or 366 engine? does it have the normal 1" free play in pedal? it is a manual clutch.


The truck drives fine, but acts like it's working extra. When you are in neutral and trying to go into a gear it grinds and will not let you shift, it goes into 4th the easiest and then you can work your way down the gears (still sitting there in one place with the foot on the clutch) until you can get it to let you be in 2nd or reverse to start your movement.
When it comes up the pedal feels normal with a bit of play in it. Has a 366 and a 2 speed rear end. It is a manual.
 
Is that a hydraulic clutch actuation mechanism?

Check to see. If so the reservoir may be empty or the slave cylinder leaking.
 
I believe there should be a spring underneath on the clutch fork (on which the throwout bearning rides)to pull the fork back to normal position. Usually hooks in a groove/hole combination in the fork and then to the trans.
 
i would disconnect the linkage at clutch fork and make sure the fork slides back and forth easy on the front trans, collar. it may be dry as pointed out. this collar needs to be lubed with grease. this fork also has a ball to pivot on which needs a bit of grease. get everything free and adjust free play and it has to shift.
do a stall test on it, as clutch disc and the rest may be just worn out and will need to come apart. one foot on gas pedal and brake at same time. give it some rpm as letting out clutch and get it to stall under load. this is good. if it just slips and revs up some your clutch is toast.
 
agree with lp gas only---some of those model trans used an aluminum nose-cone. t.o. bearing would really bind up if it got dry. pull the rubber boot off clutch fork & try to hit it with some spray can lube. better yet, if you pull floor plate you may find inspection cover on bell housing
 
That was my quess, but can't seem to find anything that looks like a reservoir, where would it be. It should look about like the brake master cylinder shouldn't it? Usually on the firewall near the master cylinder??
 
no such thing, i have installed quite a few clutches in these trucks in a gm garage.
they are manual , not hydraulic.
 
I have had the trans nose cone break before and it almost sounds like it. It got hard to shift till I pulled trans to find cone broken and some one before I owned the truck had just done a clutch job on it and put in the wrong type pressure plate that made the clutch bearing bind. Was a pain till I found out about the clutch plate and replaced it, No problems since then.
 

Best I remember you can see the whole assy from the bottom with the lower cover off... Have someone press the clutch does the disc release/spin EZ...

My other thought is a spring came out of the clutch hub and jamming it up at times...

If it were a linkage issue the clutch would release even if the pedal stuck to the floor....

They are EZ to replace the clutch (if that helps)
 
ive had that a couple of times on my trucks that truck has a manual linkage clutch, what is happening is the clutch is going over center and staying this can be caused by 2 things the adjustment, you should have about 1 inch of freeplay at the top of the pedal from where it rests against the rubber bumper [ it is in there right?] and where it gets hard when you push the pedal by hand if this is the problem your clutch will be engauging pretty far up, not down towards the floor, the other cause is during the last clutch job it had somebody turn the flywheel too much trying to clean it up, making it too thin for the clutch geometry to work propperly, i had that happen too, we replaced the flywheel about 10 years ago and the truck is working properly to this day i still own it
 
Mine did the same thing and it was low of brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir which also is used to pressure the clutch. We filled it up and bled and pumped and got it working like new. Check in the brake fluid reservoir and see if it is low. Mine actually has two compartments in the reservoir, one for the clutch and one for the brakes. My truck is a C60.
 
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