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Axle limit question

B

BradyW

Member
Wondering the weight rating for this trailer? This is a home made trailer. It has a solid 3 inch square stock solid axle, that is cut out and set into place in the steel frame. My question is what is the weight (load) rating of this tailer? I can't identify the hub or rim? Maybe a x military trailer. It's a split rim. I would like to use it to haul my little dozed around. 8000 lbs. I don't want to overload and damage. Thanks
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tire weight rating would be one factor also brakes would figure in I would not want to venture a guess as I'm not a structural engineer, but would seriously want to consider liability if an accident occurred with a piece of home built equipment on public land. if on your own land and no possibility of any one being hurt load it till something busts or the job is done
 
Do you want to haul an 8000 pound dozer on that trailer at highway speeds or just short distances at tractor speeds? Mounted solid with no springs it won't have as high a load rating as the same axle with springs to cushion road bumps and pot holes.
 
From looking at it I'd say the axel might hold the 8000 lbs without much problem. I know the axels on my trailer are rated at 7500 lbs and they aren't anywhere as heavy as what your describing.

That said, there's no way I'd want to be towing an 8000 lb load on a single axel, with only a single wheel on each side. One with the single axel, it would be extremely difficult to position a machine on the trailer and establish a correct loading on the tongue.

Moving on to the tires, and most importantly, you need to see what the load rating on them is. I know most big truck tires are rated around 5500 lbs on a single wheel. This would, technically, give you the capacity needed, but that would only cover a static load. Remember, if you hit a hard bump/pothole and the trailer jumps, etc, it's going to be coming back down/being jarred with far more force than just the 8000 lbs actually on it.

This leads me to what would be my biggest concern, having a tire blow out. With that much weight, a blowout on a trailer with only one axel and one tire per side, holds a HUGE potential to be deadly, for both the driver of the tow vehicle, as well as those around him.

In the end, if I were in your position, I'd either buy, or build a trailer that would haul the load safely, or find someone to haul it for you, as I don't think what you've got will do it.
 
Around the farm pulled by tractor maybe short distance with truck. Tires are good condition, I will double check rating, but thinking 5,500-6000 lbs.
 
Hi I think i'd be worried about the missing lug nut to. as well as what the DOT might say about the whole set up. if they catch you on a public road with that outfit.It's kinda got stop me and take me to the cleaners written all over it, and you don't have the Dozer on yet.
if your going field to field on the farm and no roads fine. Public highway your asking for trouble and more if there was an accident!. most do what they want round here anyway so it's your risk i guess. Me personally i don't need the bother of fines court dates or jail if it went real south for any reason.
Regards Robert
 
Could you hang a Slow Moving Vehicle sign on it, tow it under 25 MPH and call it a farm wagon?
 
Never seen a rim like that. If my old failing memory is correct and if it isn't others will let me know.

I think the 3500# axles on my old trailer had 5 lugs. The 5000# axles on my dump trailer has 6 lugs. The 7000# axles on my implement trailer has 8 lugs.

So just guessing, I would say 3500# because you are one nut short of 5000#.
 
one thing i didnt see , is the axle solid mounted to the frame or is it sprung? if sprung, how large are the springs, like others have said, the limit factor here is the floor, i cant say how much it will hold, but id say 1 ton on a single axle short trailer is enough no mater who built it,on the road, off road, load it to your hearts content just go very slow if not loaded with the load perfectly centered over the axle and slightly forward of it, it will wreck you
 

Discussions with my tire store have led me to believe that the rims are the most basic determination. After all, appearing home built allows a broad range, and heavier rated tires could have been put on the rims. I would remove a rim and inspect closely for numbers. Remember, you don't want someone else moving into your home! You could also take it to the place where your local DOT inspects salvage vehicles for titles at the appropriate time, and ask for their opinion.
 
What does the hitch say on it about weight capacity.
I have a heavy pintle hitch on my trailer with 2 7000 axles on it. An 8000 lb La Case on it has scared me more than once. Had 10000 lbs of brick on it once and it pushed me through a stop sign. I try not to do things like that any more.
I would be worried about a tire blowing out, the rails bending, but especially the hitch rating.
Even just on the farm, you could have it break loose and flip a dozer. At work years ago, a friend was pulling a Farmall 100 or 140 on a dual axle trailer and the shank on the ball hitch broke and ran off the road digging the tongue in the dirt and flipped the tractor off the trailer.
Always caution on the side of safety.
Richard in NW SC
 
Around the farm with a tractor or truck, no problem. On the road? Not a chance. Not with 8K on a single and I bet it doesn't have a brake in sight. Plus, that's a real short trailer. How are you going to balance 8k on it? My bet is it's going to sit way to the rear no matter what you do. What kind of machine do you want to put on this?
 
First thing I would say is the concerns about 1 axle being worse than 2 is a false claim and one of the old wives tails frequently passed around about trailers. Axle configuration, with only a few exeptions, makes no difference since the center is the tipping point whether there is 1, 2, or 10 axles. An axle rated to cary the weight will handle that weight. So a single 7k axle or 2-3.5k axles will handle the same load. If the trailers are the same and the load is placed the same, they will tow the same, except that the single will pull easier and be easier on tires. I won't comment on this trailer because it is so far from being legal for road use that I don't want anything to do with it.
 

I don't think the frame is strong enough for that load, especially the section behind the axle.

KEH
 
I see a couple of big red flags here...
First, to be highway legal, it would have to have inspection in most states. Here in PA, anything over a class 1 trailer needs annual inspection. Anything over 3500 gross needs to have brakes to pass inspection.
How about suspension? Hitch rating? Tire capacity?
At the very minimum, it should be brought to a DOT certified inspector, and certified for the weight that you want to use it for. Otherwise, other DOT certified inspectors out on the highway may do that for you, and usually at an inconvenient time. Then you might even end up taking the whole rig home on a flatbed.
 
This is untrue. There is a minor advantage in a longer footprint, but stability comes from tires, suspension and tongue weight. You will get a more stable ride from the stiffer springs and tires on a single 7k axle than from a tandem 3.5k with lighter springs and softer tires. You will get a smoother ride from the tandem. Assuming trailer size is the same and the axle center is in the same place, there will be a slight stability advantage with the single and a slight ride advantage as far as bounce with the tandem. The reason tandems are so popular is 2 smaller axles is always cheaper than a single larger.
 
old split rims, most likely you will not get any tire shop to repair the tires. Do it your self and have a problem on the road, hurt someone and you are open to millions of dollars in liability.
 
Brady, if you can, check the rating on that hitch. Should be stamped on the top or side of it. Then check the rating on the ball you are going to pull it with.
Richard
 
Well I've been designing and building trailers for 30 years and have built over 200 from small yard trailers to 53'semi trailers and everything between. I can say with full confidence that I can design and build a single axle trailer that will haul 800 gal of water like a dream for anyone who wants one.
 
" Moving on to the tires, and most importantly, you need to see what the load rating on them is. I know most big truck tires are rated around 5500 lbs on a single wheel. This would, technically, give you the capacity needed, but that would only cover a static load. Remember, if you hit a hard bump/pothole and the trailer jumps, etc, it's going to be coming back down/being jarred with far more force than just the 8000 lbs actually on it."

Wayne is right on--when we design bridge spans we add 30% more to the vehicle weight for vertical impact loading
 
Vaguely looks like a chopped up 2.5 ton truck axle or from the trailers they had, rockwell maybe? They seem to be about as strong as a modern one ton axle, so maybe 6000 lb rated. Who knows if the tires and rest of trailer are up to it.
 
Well we're going to have to agree to disagree on this one I've been pulling trailers for 50 years and have never seen a single axle that could handle an odd balanced load as good as a 2 axle trailer.
 
(quoted from post at 07:08:40 02/06/15) Brady, if you can, check the rating on that hitch. Should be stamped on the top or side of it. Then check the rating on the ball you are going to pull it with.
Richard
Click to expand...

Richard, What does the weight raring of a hitch have to do with the load capacity of a home built trailer?
 
I would not put 8000 lbs on a trailer with a hitch welded to the trailer frame if the rating on the hitch says 4000 lbs max.
Richard
 
I'll stick with a tandem.
Balance is critical on a single axle close is good with a tandem.
I've seen an empty 4x6 utility trailer on the interstate nearly wreck a long box half ton truck.
 
(quoted from post at 11:43:21 02/06/15)
(quoted from post at 07:08:40 02/06/15) Brady, if you can, check the rating on that hitch. Should be stamped on the top or side of it. Then check the rating on the ball you are going to pull it with.
Richard
Click to expand...

Richard, What does the weight raring of a hitch have to do with the load capacity of a home built trailer?
Click to expand...

how about if the hitch is rated for 8,000? does it make the trailer good for 8000?
 
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