Could I use plumbing ball valves for tractor hydraulic use?

andy r

Member
I have two hydraulic outlets on my planter tractor. I use one to lift the planter and one for the markers. I also have an overhead auger to deliver dry fertilizer to 4 hoppers. Rather than disconnecting the hydraulic lines for the markers and attaching the auger orbit motor hoses every time I fill the hoppers I would like to put a tee in the marker line. At the tee I would put a ball valve in one hose on each line - one going to the markers and one going to the orbit motor. I could easily close one and open the other. Has anyone else ever used a plumbing ball valve in a hydraulic application? The ball valves are only rated at 600 psi. They are heavy brass. What gives? The casting, the stem seal, or the nylon insert around the ball inside? It probably doesn't take many psi to move the markers or to power the auger. Is it worth a try. I have a hydraulic multiplier (splitter), but I have enough electronics on the planter and tractor now. I want this to be simple. Any other ideas? Thanks.
 
David G .... that is a funny answer ... No, but Yes. I have seen old hand crank gate valves on tractor hydraulic systems before. Probably were on older tractors with lower hydraulic psi.
 
You've got to remember, if you tee into a line, that valve will be subject to the highest pressure that the line sees, not just what the attachment your running through it will take.

In other words if you were to bottom out a cylinder on another attachment and system pressure built to 1800 psi, you just went three times what the valve is rated at. At that high of a pressure, the potential for a high pressure stream, or for the cast valve to simply explode is too great to chance, in my opinion.

Your best bet would be to simply get a valve rated for hydraulic service from somewhere like Surplus Center. As you can see, a 3/8 valve, which would more than likely allow plenty of flow for your application, isn't but $18.95.

This would be your safest way, along with being the RIGHT way to do what you need.
Surplus Center Valves
 
That type valve is used on the big Farm King 10x50 grain auger. It is just to lock the hydraulic system in the up position so it doesn't leak down . Stands any pressure my tractor has put on it with no sign of leaks.
 
(quoted from post at 01:38:15 03/18/15) That type valve is used on the big Farm King 10x50 grain auger. It is just to lock the hydraulic system in the up position so it doesn't leak down . Stands any pressure my tractor has put on it with no sign of leaks.
I would bet money if that is a factory set up those valves are for hydraulic use and not 300 psi valves
 
I have a valve that you plug into the two tractor hook ups. it has two pressure lines and two return lines with quick connects move lever to the right for one piece of equipment move the same lever to the left to run the other piece of equipment then you use the tractor levers to operate the selected implement as normal
 
Just use diverter valves that is what they are designed for. You would put one hose into the front of the valve then run one to the markers and the other to the auger. Then the other the same way. Our planter has some thing like what you want right on the tongue just push it one way for one and the other for the other.
 
It can be said with certainty that the ball valve to lock up your auger is designed for hydraulic systems and is probably rated to 3000 psi. It would not be a 600 psi valve the OP is referring to even though it functions the same.
 
I don't recommend using them, but I too have seen them used for years on high pressure (2250psi) and I have never seen one break..but they are working in an "un-safe" working pressure,, my local hydraulic shop sells a 1/2" high pressure ball valve for about $40..better safe than sorry....
 
See water pipe plumbing on old H and M tractors, not quite right but the 900-1100 psi you get from them seems to hold up.

You are talking a modem setup with 2000-2500psi, and you are talking about a real bad deal if something goes wrong.

Doesn't cost much more to buy the mechanical diverer valves designed for this, or hyd rated ball valves.

When your markers top out, you put relief valve max pressure on those valves every cycle, all day long.......

Paul
 
I deal all day, every day with things that work, but are unsafe and a bad idea. Using a valve in an application that exceeds the specifications is an unwise choice, and potentially deadly if used in a situation that allows movement than can create a crush.
 
Thanks for the ideas. Looks like I need a 9 - 4128 (double selector valve) from the Surplus Center. I talked with them and got it all figured out.
 
Don't take a chance of a blown up valve in your face and buy a true hyd valve they do make them and many look about like you water type valve your talking about just made to take the high pressure of hyds
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:43 03/18/15)
You are talking a modem setup with 2000-2500psi, and you are talking about a real bad deal if something goes wrong.

Doesn't cost much more to buy the mechanical diverer valves designed for this, or hyd rated ball valves.

When your markers top out, you put relief valve max pressure on those valves every cycle, all day long.......

Paul

I second this motion and move for a vote on the floor.
Mike
 
Finding out they don't work could REALLY hurt.

Even if it's doesn't explode - the failure of a valve at the wrong time could send something moving at a time or place where you really don't want it moving.

It'd probably work ok for that application -but personally, I don't like "probably" on anything that can either hurt somebody or cost a lot of money.
 

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