Anyone have any expierence with Starmaxx Tires??

Hey guys, hope this thread is in the right place.

I added a 1964 JD 2010 to my barn a few weeks ago and shes in dire need of new rubber. With cash in short supply like everyone else i am looking anywhere I can to save a bit. It has 13.9-36's on it now but I am having a hard time finding them. I can find 12.4's at a great price, and 13.6's pretty good too. They are Starmaxx tr 60's 8 ply. I cant find much on em except they are made in Turkey.

I have a FEL on it, and I m doing a small hobby farm. I mean small. 6 workable acres and I am using less than half of that this year. So it will do a little plowing with the double bottom, some brush hoggin, some manure moving with the bucket, and snow removal in the winter (western NY).

Nothing I have found comes close to the price I have found these Starmaxx tires, everything else local is 175$ min a tire more. I have to imagine anything is better than the balder than bald and dry rotted tires that are likely as old as my father.

Any ideas on their quality?

Also lets negate the cost of shipping entirely for the sake of this.

are they nylon ?

Google them. Opinions will likely appear. I would probably do it because sheding them will keep out the sun, and price is important. Unless you find comments about failure, value for your use seems appropriate. Jim

What you have now should be 13.6 as well, not 13.9 and do not try to go down in size to the 12.4, you will regret it if you do. I do know the 36" are hard to find. So I would look at them carefully. But you are talking shipping so that means you are planning on mounting yourself, forget that Idea as with what you have and are wanting to do you need fluid in them. If you did not have the loader you might get buy but with the loader without fluid you will just set and not be able to move even if you do put chains on. Have you checked to see if you now have fluid? If so find a tire dealer that can change tires with fluid and put it back. If no fluid then if you are worried about caci then go with beet juice as it is heavier than what others say to use windshield washer antifreeze as you will need all the weight you can get. Before it is done you will also be wishing you had cast weight with the fluid. And befor somebody tells you it should be 28" instead of 36" rim it is a row crop type and not a utility type so the 36" is correct. If you have the gas engine then you have a very good engine and that is the same as on the round back Deere 45 combine and the 165 that replaced ot on the earlier square back combines is a replacement and direct bolt in. I like the row crop version but hate the utility version.

just to compare 13.6X36 are $363.95 each here in central Iowa today

There comes a point where you just bite the bullet and buy new tires, 'cause the tractor is not useable without them.

Im sure they are 13.9's. I know that the tractor data calls for 13.6's though. I am 100 percent not planning on mounting them myself. I wasnt really planning on loading them either, just running a 1000lb ballast weight (concrete drum style).

Only reason shipping isnt an issue is I have access to a shipping company that I have very very reasonable rates through. So as long as I can use my own we should be ok.

363 in Iowa city eh? Who is that from? is the extra 75 bucks a tire really worth another inch an a half over the 12.4s?

yes, nylon carcass.

My MF-240-S was made by Uzel in Turkey, and is a great tractor, very happy with it except for the one remaining Turkish front tire. It developed so many holes and cracks, I replaced it with a Carlisle. That might not be relevant, but it might be.

hd6gtom, where in Iowa? Any info on getting ahold of them would be great. Like I said shipping isnt a killer for me, I can get excellent rates through work here.

How are you going to hang that weight on hitch and still have that 3 point blade you will want at same time for snow removel?

(quoted from post at 07:21:07 06/19/15) How are you going to hang that weight on hitch and still have that 3 point blade you will want at same time for snow removel?

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What? I wouldn't give you 2 cents for a rear blade for snow removal. Maybe it's access to something better that moves more snow faster but rear blades are a pain when you have to move as much snow as I have to.

Rick

(quoted from post at 11:35:35 06/19/15)

(quoted from post at 07:21:07 06/19/15) How are you going to hang that weight on hitch and still have that 3 point blade you will want at same time for snow removel?

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What? I wouldn't give you 2 cents for a rear blade for snow removal. Maybe it's access to something better that moves more snow faster but rear blades are a pain when you have to move as much snow as I have to.

Rick

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I have a loader, not using a 3 point blade. I can run both hydraulics at the same time. Not sure where anyone got a 3 point back blade from. Hell that's what I've been using on my super M and the main reason I got the Deere to go with it. I live between Buffalo and Rochester Ny. The snow levels I deal with are quite significant.

After you clear out what you can with the loader there will still be a mess left and you can take that back blade and get rid of the final mess. Wish I still had the 4100 Ford with the loader and back blade, they work together to do a good cleanout job with the snow. One by itself just does not do the job.