completed the 8X16 deck for my hay rack

rockyridgefarm

Well-known Member
Hey all,

Here's my completed 8X16 deck. I bought the running gear at a local consignment sale with a gravity box on it for $700, but then sold the box off it for $250. The tires were poor car tires, but I had these nice 11l-15 tires sitting here, waiting for a running gear. I'd buy them for 25-45 each at any sale I see them at = $630

I used rough sawn Burr Oak from a local mill. 4X6 main beams, 3X4 crossmembers, and 1.5X8 deck boards = $280.

I used some bulk bin legs cut into 2.75" pieces and used 5" 3/8 carriage bolts to bolt the beams to the crossmembers = $45. I drilled pilot holes and used 40d ring shank nails to nail the deck down = $36.



So, $1000 (not counting several hours labor) and I have a nice flat rack. I'll use it this way all fall and winter, but next spring I'm bolting a steel rack on it for small squares.

Three more to go!


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Nothing wrong with that! Can I borrow it for a week or so? Making one last thrust to finish up haying - mowed two fields yesterday. Got a feeling I'm going to come up a wagon or two shortn
 
Looks great. Lot of guys bolt a 2x4 flat all around the outside edgeft help the bales stay in the deck.
 
That is one nice wagon! It will give you years of service. I got lucky and found an old CASE gear
with a big hay rack like that to use in my little operation. It has set outside all its life and is
pretty rough. I also bought a rough David Bradly gear and repaired it. Then just made a 12 x 8 deck
on it to help get hay off the field. This year I put a hoist and sides on it and used it to haul
wheat to the local elevator.
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(quoted from post at 12:04:54 09/12/15) Looks great, nice work. Better add some chains to hold the rack onto the running gear though.

It's bolted in the back with 5/8 bolts, but I am going to loosely attach chains to the front as well.

Ray, I'd let you borrow it, but I'll need a $1500 deposit in case of damage... :p

Gordo, I'll have a steel cage on it come spring. I'm only keeping it off because I may use it to haul firewood this winter, and cages become a PITA for loading and unloading firewood.


I just came back in from hunting for my own oak this time. Burr oaks are hard to find with enough trunk to make a 18 foot log. Would Pin Oak hold up as well as Burr?
 
Dads was built the same way other than he had 1X12 lumber down the center than your 2X8's. Also he had one bolt on each of the rear uprights and loose chains on the front to allow flexing. chris
 
Pin oak is of the red oaks (subgenus Erythrobalanus) and burr oak is of the white oaks (subgenus Leucobalanus). The white oaks are considered tougher/less brittle than the reds. You have to work both pretty
hard to tell the difference. White oak is always used for wet barrels since it will not pass liquid.
 
Looks good. With that budget, a little paint might have gone a long way (just ribbin' ya!)

I used Ash for my latest racks- lots of good, dry ash standing around after the borers are done with it. Supposed to be more flexible than oak...
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:40 09/12/15) Looks good. With that budget, a little paint might have gone a long way (just ribbin' ya!)

I used Ash for my latest racks- lots of good, dry ash standing around after the borers are done with it. Supposed to be more flexible than oak...

I agree that I paid quite a bit to build it, more than I wanted, but it'll last me decades. I used the gravity box for a couple years, so that offsets it a little. I have been looking to buy cage racks for the last 3 months, and most have weak or bad decks in them. Anything with a decent deck, decent tires, and a decent running gear is in the $1000-$1500 range anyway, and it is usually treated pine that is getting soft.
 

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