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400 versatile

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rldck20

Member
i am thinking about switching my 400 versatile swather to a snow blower. i have taken the header off and am toying with the idea of building a mount out of 3x3 square tubing and coming off that to my snow blower. any ideas would help me out.
 
The set-up manual cautions about the swather being unstable without a header attached, and recommends moving/turning slowly. The engine is 200 cu. in. so a blower sized for a 40/50 hp tractor should be a decent match.
 
Find another old one just like it and take the tail wheel assembly off and mount it on the right side. I had an old 280 Hesston swather built like that one and got tired of that single back wheel on the left side. Found another old 280 and took the frame and wheel assembly off and rebuilt it so it would mount on the right side. Sure improved the stability and handling of the old girl. Looked like it came from the factory with the two rear wheels. Don't know how it would work trying to push snow, might not have enough weight to it.
 
i mainly wanted to find out if anybody had ideas on how to mount the snow blower. wondering if it would be better to build a mount the width of the frame or just the width of the snow blower. im thinkin it would be more stable if i built it with 3x3 square tubing 6 ft wide ( the width of the machine ) and 3 ft down and weld that to the frame. then 1 ft out like a box and then attach arms at the bottom with cylinders on both arms to the mount and a stabilizer bar on top. anymore thoughts?
 
Linkage from the chassis to the blower should be a parallelogram. This will keep the bower level and vertical when in use. The lift arms should (best practice) be slightly up hill toward the blower. This prevents the blower from becoming a pole vault device if it stubs into a fixed object. This needs to be only 3 or so degrees. For example if the chassis lower pivot is located one foot from the ground, and the link bar is 2 feet long, the pivot on the blower end should be about an inch and a quarter higher, or 13.25 inches from the ground. Riding up and over a frozen lump of sod (or?) is way better than stubbing into it. a chain or telescoping lift link is needed between the hydraulics, or the lift frame to allow the blower to follow the ground despite the roughness of terrain. Down pressure is not good. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 19:53:18 09/26/15) Linkage from the chassis to the blower should be a parallelogram. This will keep the bower level and vertical when in use. The lift arms should (best practice) be slightly up hill toward the blower. This prevents the blower from becoming a pole vault device if it stubs into a fixed object. This needs to be only 3 or so degrees. For example if the chassis lower pivot is located one foot from the ground, and the link bar is 2 feet long, the pivot on the blower end should be about an inch and a quarter higher, or 13.25 inches from the ground. Riding up and over a frozen lump of sod (or?) is way better than stubbing into it. a chain or telescoping lift link is needed between the hydraulics, or the lift frame to allow the blower to follow the ground despite the roughness of terrain. Down pressure is not good. Jim
Click to expand...
i agree order of with all that you are saying but my first order of business is making the mount and getting it mounted to the machine itself. would you think 3x3 x1/4 inch square tubing would be strong enough to withstand the pushing pressure.
 
I have often considered what you are proposing.

Trouble is the wide stance of the wheels is gonna be WAY wider than any snowblower the little 200 CID Dorf can power.
 
It is imposible to say if your tube choice is apropriate without some kind of idea how you are going to
build it. A 3x3 tube structure is strong enough, just a tube run across between the wheels with the
blower pushing, not likely. I rarely use 1/4" wall tube, if 3/16" is not strong enough go to a larger
size. You will get more strength/pound of steel that way. The only places in farm machinery where thick
wall tube is used is where they need weight to get the tool into the ground.
 
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